I got home and smelled diesel so I popped the hood and my fuel pressure regulator was leaking. I took the fuel line off and put a new vibrilock sleeve on there and, snuged it down and cranked the truck and it was spewing way worse than it was with the old raggedy seal. So I just gave it a little snug and the threads snapped off. Almost like it was made out of plastic.

 

Alright... murphy hit tristan and me today... somebody in luisiana or southern arkansas, grab a shotgun, and see if you can put a stop to murphys shenanigans

 

That bites, that's a full shutdown right there too.

 

So, the real question is..... replace, or delete? Pros and cons, formost being cost for each option?

 

You can get a dorman FPR at autoparts for under $50. Just use the housing if your FPR was working well otherwise.

Fishing the broken part out of the vibraloc fitting can be a drag.

 

As SSJ said, that is the quick fix from a parts store that will likely last a long time. Riffraff and Diesel-O-Rings have a billet FPR if I am not mistaken.

The FPR housing and line connections are very sensitive to over tightening and are known to break or crack at times.

It happens...

 

Time for an upgrade.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fpr-h...-shim-springs/

 

Got her rolling again for now. I'm not proud of it but it works. We tried and tried to get that piece of the fpr out of the end of the fuel line fitting but it would not come out. Somehow those cheap fuel lines I got from the auto parts store weren't flared very well and what little flair was there slipped into the fuel pressure regulator and wedged sideways and broke it off. Basically, it wasn't coming off. So I cut the end of the line off and went to the store and got a compression fitting nut and with the vibril lock sleeve put it back on and it tightened down and does not leak. My buddy at the store had the dorman part in stock and when I got there to get it he opened the box to make sure it was the right one, I said yeah but I only need this part and grabbed he cap and he said okay and shut the box and said it's defective and it's missing parts and threw it in the missing parts bin. I was only joking but he gave me the cap for free. I bought him a drink. I spend a lot of money in there anyhow so I don't feel too bad about it. But anyway, with the compression fitting nut acting as a flare nut with the vibra lock sleeve, it tightens that rubber sleeve onto the line tightly so that it holds it still. It's not perfect but, it's not leaking.

As I said though, we could not get the threads out of the old nut. We tried and tried. Here's a picture of the fpr broke off in the nut.

 

I replaced the fpr last year from riff raff. OEM parts. It snapped off from just a little snugging. Oh well

 

The dorman part at my auto parts was $70. But as listed, I have a good buddy in there.

 

Murphy kicked me in the ***** so hard I can taste it

What happened to you?

 

i posted it on my find it fix it thread... turbo o-rings are leaking. I undertightened them... well i tightended them to ford spec.... which is 18 lbs. Garretts, is 35lbs... sooo my test drive ended up losing me about a gallon of oil.

 

You're starting to get a taste of your own nuts in your mouth too huh?

 

yeah... pretty much. Im gonna try re torquing in the morning, to the higher value, because i can do that. Without pulking anything, then, add oil, and hope its good. If not... well its pull the intakes, etc. Replace the rings, and put it all back.
however.... i was grinning, pretty big inside of a mile... those 160/30s and AA tunes have a lot more kick than i had before....

 

I can pull turbo in 10min. Ya don’t need to pull the CAC tubes. Just remove spider (5-way plenum), drop down-pipe and up-pipe collector, then (2) turbo bolts. I wouldn’t even pull turbo all the way out from under hood to change o-rings. Just move it enough to expose pedestal.

edit: remember EBPV actuator if you still have that!!