When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Howdy Fellas,
I lost my brake lights on my ‘65. All other lights are working fine (headlights, rear running lights, turn signals, license plate lights, dome light). Fuses are ok.
The brake lights and signal lights share the same filament. If one works and not the other, it's not the bulb and the wiring should be fine. Likely the brake switch. If the original type that piggy backs on the MC, probably full of crud. You can jump the 2 wires to the switch to check. Remember, key on.
I have a bit more time so I'll weigh in again. Those pressure switches are notorious for going bad gradually. Some of the newer replacement switches require much more pressure to activate than necessary, acting just like an old switch displaying an early failure. YOU WANT THE SWITCH TO ACTIVATE THE LIGHTS WITH A SLIGHT PRESSURE ON THE BRAKE SUCH AS SLOWING DOWN, NOT AS IN A PANIC STOP.
If the rear turn signals work correctly it can’t be bulbs, rear wiring, or turn switch. Front wiring to the pressure switch, pressure switch, & light switch are still a possible contender for the rude component award. Most likely is pressure switch or those crummy connectors on said switch. I would test continuity on the switch with a helper pressing the brakes.
If the rear turn signals work correctly it can’t be bulbs, rear wiring, or turn switch. Front wiring to the pressure switch, pressure switch, & light switch are still a possible contender for the rude component award. Most likely is pressure switch or those crummy connectors on said switch. I would test continuity on the switch with a helper pressing the brakes.
I can be a grounding issue in the rear bulb housings or rear wiring at the connections. If you read my post I linked to - the fella was having the similar issue with rear turn signals working but not the brake light, but only on one side in his case. Here's one point I made which can cause the issue.
Since your running lights do work I'd think you've got a ground, but this check can eliminate a weak ground. Weird things can happen if things aren't grounded 100%. The lighter, finer bulb filament can be fine because it doesn't draw as much but the heavier filament can fail because not enough juice can flow to illuminate it, for example.
Good to hear you go it fixed.
I dont know what under the dash looks like to fit a newer plunger type stop switch?
AMC had a factory kit to change the PSI switch to the plunger type under the dash.
It was a switch and bracket the bolted to the pedal bracket. Pulled the wires through the firewall and hook them to the new switch.
Just something to think about the next time you are changing that switch out.
Dave ----
