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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 12:39 PM
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Precautions before welding?

I've got to weld an inch long crack on the bed of the 550 before it goes for a new spray in liner, I'm using MIG, so disconnect batteries, un plug PCM, anything else?
I'll have the earth clamp as close as possible to the weld area.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 01:59 PM
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Is it necessary to unhook anything? I never gave that any thought.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Is it necessary to unhook anything? I never gave that any thought.
I honestly don't know, from my days when I used to restore cars it was always best practice to protect any electrical stuff......
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 02:16 PM
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I actually Googled this just yesterday. According to the Great and powerful Google you should disconnect negative battery terminals, but the thing that occurred to me is, what about all the professional welders working right off the back of their trucks building anything and everything you could imagine. They've got a machine mounted on their truck grounded to their truck welding day in and day out and I've never heard of one frying anything electronic on their pickups.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
I actually Googled this just yesterday. According to the Great and powerful Google you should disconnect negative battery terminals, but the thing that occurred to me is, what about all the professional welders working right off the back of their trucks building anything and everything you could imagine. They've got a machine mounted on their truck grounded to their truck welding day in and day out and I've never heard of one frying anything electronic on their pickups.
Mmmm, I think that the welding current only goes through the workpiece, unless they have a bench on the truck? I'm thinking that all the welding is on other things that are insulated from the welding plant by not being attached. I did do a small welding fix on the 350 when the tailgate assist strut broke free, but I can't for the life of remember what I disconnected.......
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 02:49 PM
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I have never unhooked anything to weld on any of my 7.3, just key out of ignition. Never had an issue
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Shovelheadrob
I've got to weld an inch long crack on the bed of the 550 before it goes for a new spray in liner, I'm using MIG, so disconnect batteries, un plug PCM, anything else?
I'll have the earth clamp as close as possible to the weld area.
Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Is it necessary to unhook anything? I never gave that any thought.



@Shovelheadrob

Can you please take a photo of where the Fontaine tub cracked?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 03:45 PM
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Cover your glass
 
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Old Feb 14, 2022 | 04:12 PM
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Welded a few things on my truck or uaed my truck to weld...i removed the neg cable from both batteries...no problems here
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57


@Shovelheadrob

Can you please take a photo of where the Fontaine tub cracked?
It's just behind the passenger side wheel tub, I've not looked underneath yet but i believe it's where an outrigger is attached to the tub.




 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 01:05 AM
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In addition to the electronics I'll make this small mention. Don't ever weld with your ground clamp on the opposite side of a bearing as the work.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 01:14 AM
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Was that crack there when you took delivery after importation?

Or did it appear after towing with the new 5th wheel hitch?

Let's try and figure out why that crack appeared before welding and covering it up, otherwise it will reappear again, in spades, after the new weld shrunk the metal and hydrogen embrittlement exacerbates the original stress that relieved itself through the crack.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Y2KW57
Was that crack there when you took delivery after importation?

Or did it appear after towing with the new 5th wheel hitch?

Let's try and figure out why that crack appeared before welding and covering it up, otherwise it will reappear again, in spades, after the new weld shrunk the metal and hydrogen embrittlement exacerbates the original stress that relived itself through the crack.
I have absolutely no idea, it wasn't visible until I removed the original bedliner which was nearly 1/4" thick in places, I still haven't discovered the manufacturer of the original product but it's very rubbery, extremely flexible, cuts just like a rubber floor mat, but just hadn't bonded to the tub very well on the floor. The sides were harder to remove, although I think that water ingress followed by freezing weather may have been what lifted it initially.
Back to the crack, I will be investigating further as it's a possible that something is slightly bent underneath, if you remember the truck was involved in a minor accident & it was the passenger side that had damage, my best guess is that when the rear fender took a hit it twisted one of the outriggers which has resulted in the weld to the tub fatiguing........I'll hopefully have a chance to pull the wheel liner & see this weekend.
I don't think it would be caused by the hitch, I've only towed around 1k miles, all smooth highway miles....
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Wes444
In addition to the electronics I'll make this small mention. Don't ever weld with your ground clamp on the opposite side of a bearing as the work.
Haha, I remember a friend welding the alternator bracket on his car, when he started it afterwards there was a loud squealing noise, followed by the fan belt getting ejected as the alternator had fused solid....
 
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Old Feb 15, 2022 | 06:42 AM
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i use ground clamp as close to weld as possible, and an OTC "anti-Zap" surge protector.
https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...SABEgJ_ZfD_BwE
 
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