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I've got to weld an inch long crack on the bed of the 550 before it goes for a new spray in liner, I'm using MIG, so disconnect batteries, un plug PCM, anything else?
I'll have the earth clamp as close as possible to the weld area.
I actually Googled this just yesterday. According to the Great and powerful Google you should disconnect negative battery terminals, but the thing that occurred to me is, what about all the professional welders working right off the back of their trucks building anything and everything you could imagine. They've got a machine mounted on their truck grounded to their truck welding day in and day out and I've never heard of one frying anything electronic on their pickups.
I actually Googled this just yesterday. According to the Great and powerful Google you should disconnect negative battery terminals, but the thing that occurred to me is, what about all the professional welders working right off the back of their trucks building anything and everything you could imagine. They've got a machine mounted on their truck grounded to their truck welding day in and day out and I've never heard of one frying anything electronic on their pickups.
Mmmm, I think that the welding current only goes through the workpiece, unless they have a bench on the truck? I'm thinking that all the welding is on other things that are insulated from the welding plant by not being attached. I did do a small welding fix on the 350 when the tailgate assist strut broke free, but I can't for the life of remember what I disconnected.......
I've got to weld an inch long crack on the bed of the 550 before it goes for a new spray in liner, I'm using MIG, so disconnect batteries, un plug PCM, anything else? I'll have the earth clamp as close as possible to the weld area.
Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Is it necessary to unhook anything? I never gave that any thought.
Was that crack there when you took delivery after importation?
Or did it appear after towing with the new 5th wheel hitch?
Let's try and figure out why that crack appeared before welding and covering it up, otherwise it will reappear again, in spades, after the new weld shrunk the metal and hydrogen embrittlement exacerbates the original stress that relieved itself through the crack.
Was that crack there when you took delivery after importation?
Or did it appear after towing with the new 5th wheel hitch?
Let's try and figure out why that crack appeared before welding and covering it up, otherwise it will reappear again, in spades, after the new weld shrunk the metal and hydrogen embrittlement exacerbates the original stress that relived itself through the crack.
I have absolutely no idea, it wasn't visible until I removed the original bedliner which was nearly 1/4" thick in places, I still haven't discovered the manufacturer of the original product but it's very rubbery, extremely flexible, cuts just like a rubber floor mat, but just hadn't bonded to the tub very well on the floor. The sides were harder to remove, although I think that water ingress followed by freezing weather may have been what lifted it initially.
Back to the crack, I will be investigating further as it's a possible that something is slightly bent underneath, if you remember the truck was involved in a minor accident & it was the passenger side that had damage, my best guess is that when the rear fender took a hit it twisted one of the outriggers which has resulted in the weld to the tub fatiguing........I'll hopefully have a chance to pull the wheel liner & see this weekend.
I don't think it would be caused by the hitch, I've only towed around 1k miles, all smooth highway miles....
In addition to the electronics I'll make this small mention. Don't ever weld with your ground clamp on the opposite side of a bearing as the work.
Haha, I remember a friend welding the alternator bracket on his car, when he started it afterwards there was a loud squealing noise, followed by the fan belt getting ejected as the alternator had fused solid....