You really need to find a truck with stock tires and wheels that you can put on yours and see how it drives. I put my leveling kit on the night I brought my truck home, had it aligned and installed 37 trail grapplers and its been perfect. 3 months ago I decided to put on new 37 toyo m/ts and my truck pulled hard to the right, like real hard to the right. I rotated them side to side and front to back per the shop that installed them and it drove the same each time. They then told me that my alignment was off, although it drove perfect when it was pulled into the bay to swap the tires and pulled as soon as the toyos went on. Alignment checked out perfect, then they said that since the truck was lifted by the frame that either a brake line was stretched causing the pull or the leveling kit/track bar shifted. At that point I got with my neighbor who had a stock truck and put his tires on mine and my tires on his. All of the sudden my truck drove perfect again and now his pulled like crazy. I took a video from inside both trucks and showed it to the tire shop and they took the Toyo's back and remounted my trail grapplers. The truck drives perfect again... sometimes you just get a bad batch of tires.

 

double post

 

START WITH THE TIRES!!!!

 

The adjustable track bar may need to be looked at. Of all the things you installed, that component will have the most influence on your steering geometry and directly affect your alignment settings.

 

track bar won't cause a pull.
there are many people running leveling kits that have not addressed the track bar and their trucks do not pull

 

Re-read his post...he installed an "adjustable" BDS track bar which is not necessary - it is not factory. It might not be "adjusted" to the proper settings.

 

do you know what an adjustable track bar is or what it does?

it doesn't matter if it is "adjusted" correctly, it won't cause the pull

 

so a pinion arm drop kit will add caster.

but, adding a 2" level kit and an adjustable track bar doesnt present too much opportunity to cause bump steer and the alignment issues you describe.

do you have dual steering stabilizers and if you do...did you remove the steering damper?

I would not remove the steering damper

I would determine if they put in a track bar bracket and a adjustable track bar...and if they over compensated for the axle shift.

im going to guess you have dual steering stabilizers and they removed your steering damper.

If that is the case...I would get a fox steering damper and adjust the air pressure to counter the steering drift you are describing.

sounds like you have two problems...

 

.............

 

I do. Have you done an alignment on your truck?

 

Steering stabilizers are there to cushion road blows to the tire so they aren't directly transmitted to the steering wheel. They also help dampen vibrations such as Death Wobble. Replacing a stock Stab with something like a stiffer Bilstien will help cushion the blows and dampen the Death Wobble when it starts. ( Death wobble is caused by weak components and too little Caster. Think of the front wheels on a grocery cart that wobble like mad, thats what the truck does. Adding caster helps correct the wobble and compensate for looser fitting parts. The parts may still be good, just not brand new tight, and just enough slop to cause the wobbles. ) could be related to the shaking being felt.

However the stab has ZERO to do with alignment BUT the shock is so stiff it pushes against the steering and can override the steering box. They DO push to the right. Only way to confirm, remove it and drive. I highly doubt it would be so stiff it would cause a right pull like this, but you never know.

Has the OP tried driving on the opposite side of the road on the left leaning crown, and does it still pull right? If yes, then something is not correct with the lift install, if no, then focus on alignment as the combination of lift and tires needs tweaking. Has the frame measurements been taken and confirmed they meet up with Ford specs +2"? If one side is higher than the other, it can cause a pull.

Years ago (mid 90's) when I cranked a wrench we had a customer we did an alignment on and he came back three times complaining of a pull to the left. Every time we drove it, it drove straight as an arrow, all measurements were dead on. Thing is, the guy paid over the phone, made appointments over the phone, dropped the car off and picked it up after hours, so we never actually SAW the driver. Turns out the guy weighed 350 pounds so when he sat in the car it leaned to the left causing the pull. On the third visit he brought in in while we were open to complain face to face. Once we saw the guy (not mentioning his weight or girth) we had him drive the car onto the alignment rack and stay in the car so we could align it. It was WAY off with him in the car! We adjusted it into spec with him in the car and problem solved.

An off the wall guess,is multiple causes leading up to a strong pull, the kit is not 100% correctly installed, the frame measurements are off ( because of the install), the tires are worn badly, and there is an imbalance in the caster. I also noticed the toe is out and not in. Shouldn't be too big an issue, just increased tire scrub on the inside edges of the tires. Just a wild guess based on what was posted, have to actually see and drive to determine true cause.

 

Sorry to hear you are having problems. It says the kit comes with an adjustable track bar bracket, is that what you mean? The kit does not require new radius arms, so I don't know why they are telling you that. I would bring it back to the shop and tell them to work on the problem and call you when it's fixed. Thousands of these kits have beens installed with good results. The shop needs to figure this out for you, and not by making you buy new radius arms. Best of luck.

 

then you should know the track bar will not cause a pull.

i have, several times, on 5 different solid axle trucks with leveling/lift kits