Seeing what the caster actually is, I would go with new caster bushings, if these are factory on now. Increase caster as close to 5 deg as possible, then back off drivers side until no pull, if a pull is still there.

I have been through this "in spec" crap before with a truck that would head for the ditch if the steering wheel was released. The cure is to increase caster on the pulling side, or remove caster on the other. That is if all other settings are in spec. I don't like the drivers side having more camber than the passenger side. If anything, this should be reversed. You could possibly have a camber pull, but most likely a camber and caster pull together.

One thing I do see is you have TOE OUT. Another casuality of "In Spec". I would want toe in for stability. You will get wander and inside tire wear with your settings and oversize tires and wheels.

I haven't had any of my vehicles on an alignment machine since the 1990's. But, when I did, I gave them the specs I wanted, and went to someone that would let me watch. They are going to charge the same to put it on a machine that shows all green, or actually set it where it drives right and gets good tire wear.

I had my home set up checked just to see. It showed lots of red. Told them not to touch it. When I had new tires put on several years later, the owner said he had never seen a Ford TTB wear tires so even. Those same new tires are still on the truck that were put on in late 2004. Yes, 2004, and still have tread, and wearing well.

 

Even with caster being the same both sides, the truck should not sharply turn to one direction. His looks to have slightly more passenger side. Not every road has a crown, most are hardly noticeable, and from his description it sounds like more than just a road crown induced turn. I'm not sure exactly what he had installed, but the BDS 2" spacer kit does come with caster bushings. Probably a 2 degree bushing like Carli provides. Carli uses the same degree both sides, even though, I don't see a lot of complaints from it.

I was expecting to see something obvious in his alignment sheet, but nothing is out enough to create the issue he describes. More toe-in and more caster wouldn't hurt.

Where do you see toe out? He has positive toe. There is no minus before his toe numbers, so not negative toe.


(Summit)

 

On the toe. I'm going by the arrows being outside both zero lines, instead of inside to determine toe out. That's my interpertation, though I could be wrong, for as my wife tells me,, I am most of the time....

 

One thing for sure, I have learned things on this forum from those much smarter than me, that made me change my opinion.

I'm just stating my experience with front end geometry I have learned through trial and error, and too much money spent on "in spec" alignments that drove horribly.

 

Ive built and been around plenty of vehicles with larger tires.

I would NEVER put an alignment on something to compensate for something else...ever.

And im not talking factory specs either.

Adding or subtracting caster from one side to compensate for road crown is dumb...

The OP's truck is NOT exhibiting the symptoms it has because caster is off... yes I would PERSONALLY want about 5 degrees of caster at a minimum, but I dont believe his ~3 degrees is whats causing his issue unless he has much larger issues and 3 degrees is setting off death wobble... again a symptom, but not a cause.

 

Please explain on a solid axle truck how you adjust camber using factory pieces(since the OP hasnt changed anything in this regard)...

hint: you cant. You CAN get offset ball joints, but ive never seen any where the quality is worth a ****. If you need offset ball joints on a solid axle vehicle you have other issues going on with your axle housing...i.e. you bent it.

And at that small of a difference there is essentially no difference.

NOW if he had like -2 and 0 then yes I might tend to agree and would then point to him likely having a bent axle housing, but his -.4 and -.1 is hardly anything.

 

OP.... are there caster shims in your kit?
Did the tires get installed at the same time?
Have you tried putting the stock tires back on?


your caster numbers should not create the pull you are having.

I don't know about your Fuel tires, but Toyo MT tires have a known right radial pull. quite drastically from some of them.
I would start with the tires

 

I guess we just have a different opinion on this. It happens, no big deal. I never said anything about changing camber with factory parts of offset ball joints. I'm talking adjustable or offset caster shims.

There is nothing wrong with disagreeing and having different opinions. We could both be wrong, both be partially right, or one right and the other wrong. The main thing is he gets his truck straightened out.

 

I can say enough how much I appreciate all the feedback. Thank you all so much. I spoke with BDS and again and they advised the casters the kit come with are 2.3. The kits replaces the factory casters with these. BDS said to put in a 2.6 caster on the passenger side to help resolve the issue I’m having. The said I need more cross axle camber than what the alignment shows and that adding the 2.6 caster will help this issues. I really don’t know what all this means. They also said I should replace the factory steering stabilizer with a Fox stabilizer saying it would push back a little better than factory. Does this sound accurate.
There were caster shims in the kit. The new wheels and tires were installed at the same time. Unfortunately, I still have the rims but I had them remove the tires since they were pretty well worn down.

 

i would swap tires first if possible.
i would not do a different steering stabilizer yet.

2.6* caster shim on passenger side with 2.3* on driver side makes sense. may or may not be necessary though.
did the shop actually install the shims that were included in your kit?
i can tell you my truck pulled with the stock shims after the level. with the shims included in my kit, the truck drives straight

 

I have a 17' with a 2" level
Do the 2.6/2.3, they are to help compensate for road crown and keep you tracked straight. Toyo MTs have a reputation for pulling right, BDS is saying a pressurized stabilizer will push back a little and help counter the pull from the MTs.

 

stabilizers are bandaids for other problems.

A sold axle truck should drive down the road perfect with no stabilizer present at all.

 

I don't think a new stabilizer will make any noticeable difference with the pull, but if you are still ruining the factory unit it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it anyways. The 17-19's came with a crappy stabilizer, known to fail early. The stabilizer on my '19 was already bad at 4k miles. 17-19 came with a non-gas charged damper, the updated part that they swap in under warranty might be gas charged. I went with a Bilstein stabilizer, but you probably have FOX shocks with the BDS, so you might stick with FOX if you care about the looks. Adding that 2.6 bushing on the passenger side could help some, it's a cheap part, can be installed fairly quick and shouldn't require another alignment. With how extreme the pull is, i'm not so sure that is the problem.

 

I would recommend a dual steering stab for your truck.It should help the steering feel more planted but after your current issue is resolved.. Bigger wheels and tires makes the truck follow every groove and crack in the road. I would be surprised if that fixes your current issues but you should upgrade it. I changed the stock stab. and added a dual stabilizer, drives much better. The factory stabilizer what worthless with only 5k miles on my truck

 

You really need to find a truck with stock tires and wheels that you can put on yours and see how it drives. I put my leveling kit on the night I brought my truck home, had it aligned and installed 37 trail grapplers and its been perfect. 3 months ago I decided to put on new 37 toyo m/ts and my truck pulled hard to the right, like real hard to the right. I rotated them side to side and front to back per the shop that installed them and it drove the same each time. They then told me that my alignment was off, although it drove perfect when it was pulled into the bay to swap the tires and pulled as soon as the toyos went on. Alignment checked out perfect, then they said that since the truck was lifted by the frame that either a brake line was stretched causing the pull or the leveling kit/track bar shifted. At that point I got with my neighbor who had a stock truck and put his tires on mine and my tires on his. All of the sudden my truck drove perfect again and now his pulled like crazy. I took a video from inside both trucks and showed it to the tire shop and they took the Toyo's back and remounted my trail grapplers. The truck drives perfect again... sometimes you just get a bad batch of tires.