3G alternator/ammeter
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 292
Likes: 21
3G alternator/ammeter
Hey guys! I'm pretty sure I spend more time researching 1973-1979 Ford pickups than anyone else. Lots of indoor time here in the frozen north. I am definitely planning to upgrade to a 3G alternator. I have a 1977 F100 Custom with gauges rather than warning lights. My question is if I swap out the alternators without touching anything else, will I damage my ammeter? I plan to have my ammeter converted to a voltmeter at some point, and I don't want to damage the ammeter nor the wiring. Can these two upgrades be done at different times, or should they be done at the same time? Would it be smarter to convert the ammeter first, then wire in the 3G alternator? Thanks!
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,188
Likes: 5,792
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
I think you can get with this guy and get what you need as far as a ammeter to be a volt meter. Scroll down a bit and check out F100V or F100VO
https://www.rccinnovations.com/index...=menu-volt-all
https://www.rccinnovations.com/index...=menu-volt-all
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 292
Likes: 21
Thanks for the replies. I guess I was unclear. If I swap to a 3G, will the ammeter and ammeter wiring be damaged in any way? I understand the ammeter won't work with the 3G, but I'm I good to do each project separately? As in, can I swap in the 3G and then at a later date have my ammeter converted to voltmeter? I understand there is wiring involved in both upgrades.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 896
Likes: 55
From: Bothell
The entire power from the alternator goes through the amp meter so no you cannot run a 3g or for that matter any upgraded alternator through your factory amp meter. You can do the 3g swap first if you bypass the amp meter and render it dead. Once you get it converted to a volt meter you can wire it back in as a volt meter but it’s not connected the same way the amp meter was originally wired.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 292
Likes: 21
Ok, now we're getting somewhere! If I do the 3G upgrade, am I not "bypassing the amp meter and rendering it dead"? If so, why should I do the amp meter first? Thanks!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 367
From: Kansas
That is incorrect for '73-'79 ford trucks...current through the ammeter is provided by a shunt across the alternator output...so a tiny portion of the current flows through the ammeter...for obvious safety reasons.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
I think no one has tried. The trick would be locating the current reference points in the 3G, which would be the same as the reference points in the 1G, and I guess, the 1G regulator, where the ammeter connects to the charging system.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
I wonder if one can do the 3G conversion, and then connect up an aftermarket ammeter and have it work.
If so, then there's probably someone who can put the guts of the aftermarket ammeter into the Dentside's ammeter.
If so, then there's probably someone who can put the guts of the aftermarket ammeter into the Dentside's ammeter.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 292
Likes: 21
I have never been accused of being the best communicator. Truly sorry! Ok, so I want to upgrade to a 3G alternator. There is TONS of information out there on how to do the swap. A part of the swap is deleting/eliminating the external voltage regulator. When the external voltage regulator is deleted/eliminated, has the ammeter been bypassed and rendered dead? If so, why would I swap the ammeter to voltmeter first? These are not rhetorical, sarcastic questions. I sincerely would like to know. It's how my brain works. If I don't get answers to my questions, then I can't progress on the projects. I'm overANALytical that way. Also, I absolutely don't want to damage anything or cause a fire. Thanks!