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I have never been accused of being the best communicator. Truly sorry! Ok, so I want to upgrade to a 3G alternator. There is TONS of information out there on how to do the swap. A part of the swap is deleting/eliminating the external voltage regulator. When the external voltage regulator is deleted/eliminated, has the ammeter been bypassed and rendered dead? If so, why would I swap the ammeter to voltmeter first? These are not rhetorical, sarcastic questions. I sincerely would like to know. It's how my brain works. If I don't get answers to my questions, then I can't progress on the projects. I'm overANALytical that way. Also, I absolutely don't want to damage anything or cause a fire. Thanks!
I honestly don't think it matters which way you do it. I took my dash cluster out and took out the ammeter and sent it to RCC Innovations and had him modify it to work as a volt meter instead (a link was posted earlier in thread to his website). You can get the 3g all ready to go with assorted wiring, etc, and then when you are ready, put the modified ammeter back in prior to firing things up.
Couldnt a person technically upgrade the shunt to accommodate the increased amps of the alternator? I dont know, it just seems like it would be possible. I see shunts available for 500 amp setups, not intended for vehicles though(solar)
just thinking out loud.
Couldnt a person technically upgrade the shunt to accommodate the increased amps of the alternator? I dont know, it just seems like it would be possible. I see shunts available for 500 amp setups, not intended for vehicles though(solar)
just thinking out loud.
I suspect so - but I don't know enough about it to venture an answer.
If I do the 3G upgrade, am I not "bypassing the amp meter and rendering it dead"? If so, why should I do the amp meter first? Thanks!
Originally Posted by msalander
Thanks so much, everyone! Although my specific questions weren't answered, I have plenty to read up about. Thanks for the feedback
Many ppl have said to not hook the ammeter up, you will blow it out and possibly start a fire.
They also have told you to update the ammeter to a voltmeter.
no one has ever ran an ammeter with a 3g upgrade. They either cut the wire and ignore the gauge, get their gauge replaced or whatever.
They don't do the ammeter. they bypass it with the upgrade and you will too.
was there another question you asked and we missed?
When the external voltage regulator is deleted/eliminated, has the ammeter been bypassed and rendered dead? If so, why would I swap the ammeter to voltmeter first?
if you're doing a 1 wire 3g yes it is dead, I'm pretty sure the 3g how to shows this?
I think this has already been stated but not clearly enough evidently.
Why would you even do it? Why even bother swapping it, why bother using it?
you can get an aftermarket one for cheaper and less effort, and you can get a cig lighter usb charger with voltage display and it's even simpler.
there is no reason to even bother with it. You don't need it at all, it's your choice!
Question #1: When the external voltage regulator is deleted/eliminated, has the ammeter been bypassed and rendered dead? Maybe I missed it, but I'm looking for a definitive answer.
Question #2: If so, why would I swap the ammeter to voltmeter first? In post #5 I was given the advice to swap the ammeter to voltmeter before swapping to a 3G alternator. If the answer to Question #1 is yes, why would swapping to a voltmeter before the alternator change be necessary?
I'm aware that neither of these swaps is necessary/mandatory. Thanks again guys for all your feedback
Voltmeters are more sensitive and have more movement to the gauge. You can tell voltage amount at the switch. With an ammeter, without anything turned on except ignition, the gauge will barely move. You can drive on for miles until the ignition quits from battery going dead. Ask me how I know. A red warning lamp is better than an ammeter. Nothing that comes to mind that is powered by a 3G has an amp meter. Even if you don't swap to 3G the voltmeter is more informative of battery/voltage condition. Just my thoughts.
Question #1: When the external voltage regulator is deleted/eliminated, has the ammeter been bypassed and rendered dead? Maybe I missed it, but I'm looking for a definitive answer.
Question #2: If so, why would I swap the ammeter to voltmeter first? In post #5 I was given the advice to swap the ammeter to voltmeter before swapping to a 3G alternator. If the answer to Question #1 is yes, why would swapping to a voltmeter before the alternator change be necessary?
I'm aware that neither of these swaps is necessary/mandatory. Thanks again guys for all your feedback
I'm also aware the ammeter and voltmeter don't measure the same thing. Thanks!
Couldnt a person technically upgrade the shunt to accommodate the increased amps of the alternator? I dont know, it just seems like it would be possible. I see shunts available for 500 amp setups, not intended for vehicles though(solar)
just thinking out loud.
Theoretically. Since it's a shunt type, it's not so much that you can't do it, but you can't do it with the wiring that is supplied in the truck. And when people do, they don't understand what they are doing and fry stuff. A shunt ammeter is basically a low voltage voltmeter that is indicating the difference in potential between each end of the shunt. The way it looks like the one in the F-Series is wired, it's inaccurate at best. Either showing battery charge or discharge, not necessarily how much the alternator is putting out. So it's inaccurate at best. If you had the full output of the alternator going across the shunt, you could do it, but I have no idea what the calibration would look like.
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