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The weather is getting nice and it sounds like you are ready to be driving it. Throw the 360 together as cheaply as you can and run it. Then plan and build the 390 the way you want it.
Marion5, I hear ya on the books and the slippery slope of building an FE. I agree with the option 2 and what Omicron said, build the 360 and drive the truck. If the 390 block is not salvageable, you can always find another block and swap the internals, add some Edelbrock heads, hydraulic roller cam, lifters, and Performer RPM Intake as time and cash allows...a real torque monster that will be a reliable build.
As far the intake goes, I would remove it, clean your surfaces good, and check all interfaces. When I installed my Edelbrock Performer, I recall us using a large beam of RTV on the back china wall. My intake doesn't leak, but the valve covers do weep at the back of the engine where the heads meet the intake...there is a 1/8" to 1/16" step there that I plan to attack this weekend. I glued the valve covers to the valve cover gaskets using permatex super black and valve covers are straight...but sealing up the valve covers is also an issue for the FE at times. The FE is a good engine, one of my favorites to be honest, but takes more attention to build versus a small block (I'm still learning too).
The reason I mentioned an electric pump was to remove the fuel pump eccentric and rid yourself of the conflict you have with the timing chain cover. I installed an electric pump on mine since I couldn't get the mechanical to keep good fuel pressure.
I used “Right Stuff” on the China Wall front and back. I’m not sure I used enough because there’s about a 1/4” gap between the intake and block. That seems excessive to me, but I’m used to Sbc’s. It leaked a decent amount of oil even just sitting. That’s why I was considering using the cork on the front and back, to help fill the void. I bought the Black Permatex this time and was going to try that. I’m using my engine hoist and have the engine on the stand out of the truck, so hopefully that simplifies things. I’m going to slowly and evenly lower the intake down. I did it before with the engine in the truck, without the engine hoist and by myself. My daughters can only help so much! I’m hoping that I get it sealed this time. Today is going to be a day of cleaning all of the “Right Stuff” off the intake and heads. It’s a pita!
I know my new fuel pump was running a steady 7psi, so I might leave that for now. I’m considering trying to get a new timing cover because of where the fuel eccentric rubbed on it and because one of the threads are stripped a little. I made it work for the time being. I guess I could try a helicoil, not sure what size.
I have really been looking at Edelbrock’s top end kit for my 390 when I get that going. It’s just very expensive. The prices of parts are just skyrocketing so I feel like when I see something available I have to jump on it. Also, I know that I overdo it on parts and upgrades to my F100 and my Chevelle. Did I need to put an over $6k suspension on my 72 Chevelle I drive once or twice a week? No, but this is my hobby and I just love old vehicles. I really enjoy learning and working on them. I think I just get a little ahead of myself sometimes!
Sounds like me for sure. I'm a Ford guy, but I also work on my wife's 1960 Plymouth 9 Passenger wagon with a Poly 318. I can appreciate all makes in the 1960 through 70s. The wagon is haunted though, no joking...
With the engine out of the truck and using a hoist for the intake, cork plus permatex, I think you'll nail it. Get it to barely touch and use the distributor to line it up. Don't forget that little hose either lol...seen that happen.
The Edelbrock Top End kit is nice, but keep in mind it has a flat tappet cam. Might want to go with a hydraulic roller setup if the $$ is there. Keep us posted!
When I rebuilt my 390fe way back, I used the cork gaskets on the china walls. When I swapped to aluminum intake on it, I quit messing with the cork and just used a bead of permateor RTV). I just put intake on and gauged how big of a bead I needed. That motor never leaked. I did the same on my 360fe a year plus ago.
I was test fitting the intake on the block today and saw that the gap between the intake and the China wall wasn’t as big as before. It looked only to be about an 1/8” instead of 1/4” it was before. Having the engine on the stand and using a hoist to lift the intake is much easier to get it lined up correctly. I think I didn’t fit it good enough with it in the truck and trying to put it on by myself, which is why it leaked so bad. I think I’m going to skip the cork and just go with the rtv since the gap is not as big when it’s fit properly. Hopefully, I get it sealed up tomorrow!
Fingers crossed, I think I got the intake sealed up. I replaced the oil pump, pick up, oil pan, motor mounts and timing chain. I’m planning on putting the motor back in my truck tomorrow. I am replacing the flywheel and clutch. The flywheel has many cracks and hot spots. I ordered a stock replacement from Jegs and I looked at it today. It looks like the ring gear is on the wrong side of the flywheel compared to the original one. Is it possible to move it or should I try to return it? Everything else looks good on it except for the positioning of the ring gear. I really appreciate any help on this! Thanks!!
Back in the days of Ford selling the ring gears separate, I used to sell them to customers. I was told that either they would replace theirs or a shop would do it. They would freeze the flywheel and heat up the ring gear. This would allow the ring gear to be removed and the new one pounded in place. Once both pieces returned to their normal temperature they would be as tight as normal.
It ended up being the wrong part! It was boxed and labeled correctly, but the flywheel was only 13” and I needed 15.5” with the right gear. I returned it and got the correct one. Now, I’m recovering from laying on my back and lifting the transmission back in the truck. I wish I was in my 20’s again! Hopefully, I can get everything back together in the next week or so just to see if I got it all sealed up and running good!
I'd disassemble it completely. Pull all the oil galley plugs, freeze plugs. Have it hot tanked, magnafluxed etc. That rust in the cyl. might clean up with a flex hone or another type.Then given a thorough washing and cleaning with rifle brushes etc. Recheck or have rechecked all clearances. Have the crank checked and line bored if off. Have it balanced if you can afford it.
'68 f100 Ranger 390 cu. in. .030" T-bird pistons 9.5:1 Wolverine Blue Racer .484/.510 204/214 @ .050", Windage Tray, Street Dominator Int., Holley 1850-2 600CFM, Hedmann, Flowmasters, K&N, C6 Dash-2 shift kit. Meadolark Yellow. Looks just like Vince's ride in '74 Mr. Majestyk
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or RTV). I just put intake on and gauged how big of a bead I needed. That motor never leaked. I did the same on my 360fe a year plus ago.
