New to this group, thanks for admitting me. Backstory...I have a 1963 F100 that my FIL bought new. My BIL put a supposed GT 390 in it years ago. I bought and sold and rebought the truck again. BIL let it freeze, don't know the extent of that yet, still need to pull it. In the meantime, I bought another complete supposed 390 from a friend and I need help identifying all the hodge podge of parts I am finding...bear with me please as I am as confused as a blind man in a fish market.
1. The block is a mirrored 105. I cannot find any casting numbers except for a 6 by the Michigan MCC, a 6 in the valley, a giant "X" on the rear side,






and a backwards little r scratched on the back of the block. Build date is 3B8
2. The heads are D2TE-AA...1972 390?
3.The crank is 2TA...330 cid or 360 cid? There is a 22 stamped on the counterweight.
4.The three center main caps have D2TE.
5. The rods are C7TE-A on one side and B178WL on the other. 330 long?
6. The rod caps are C6AE on one side and CF6 on the other.
7. The pistons are 030 stamped on top. 395R cast on the side.
8. The cam has D2C2.
9. The intake is C5AE 9425 C with a 6B4 above that.
I will be pulling the other motor in the next few days and prolly get a whole new set of numbers to confuse me even more.
Thanks in advance for any and all help with this,

 

here are some more pics...

 

A '73 or so 360 with an earlier manifold. Is it a 4bbl manifold?. A 360 would have the longer rods. D2TE heads are '72 and up 360 and 390. There were no FE car engines after '70, maybe part of '71. But the crank seals it as a 360. A .030 over 360 so you might want to sonic check it if it needs a bore job.

 

Second on 360. Between the little rods and the back of the crankshaft....seals the deal. The "105" block means that the bore is a minimum of 4.050" so it can't be a 352 (unless it's been bored 0.010" and "60 over" 352 pistons were installed) but the bottoms of the pistons from your pics tells that story....it's a 0.030" overbored 360.

 

I found that the C7TE-A rods are long rods, 6.540".
short rods are 6.488".
So...someone thought they were making a 390 with the longer rods or they were trying for higher comoression?

 

Not going to be a 390 without a 390 crank. That's a 3.5" stroke 360 crank you have there. The long rods with the .280" shorter stroke of the 360 crank and pistons with nowhere near the compression height difference to make it up equals a low compression turd no matter which way you slice a 360.

 

Thank all of you for your help. I will be back with alot more questions once I get the supposed GT390 out of the 63 and see what kind of miss match is happening there.

 

Even though that is a 360, in it's entirety I might add, the block is a great donor for a 390. If it's in good shape. The heads are decent, but need to be redone if they haven't already been upgraded - but given it looks to be a pretty standard garden-variety 360, it's a perfect donor for everything but the crank and rods/pistons.

If the crank/rods are good from the "390" and it's really a 390, then you should be able to cobble together a 390 out of the parts. You said it froze, so the block will be the problem, there. The crank should have a "U" in the number, look around the web for a crank casting chart.

Problem is, you'll need pistons and another bore on the block to match everything up, unless the bore is pristine.

 

360 pistons are the ONLY way to build a 390.....unless a guy's feeling rich and goes with forged custom units.

 

The rear cam plug looks like it might have been installed backwords and if so that is going to be an issue (if not already). Never seen a rear bulkhead sand scratch mark on a mirror 105 block that is intriguing.