I bought a 1969 F-100 360 3spd to work on after I finished my 72 Chevelle. It ran good, but I rebuilt the steering, suspension and added power front disc brakes. I’ve been working on replacing the front inner fenders and radiator support. I added full length headers and a Flowmaster exhaust. I recently purchased a 390 short block from a 68 Mustang that was rebuilt, but never started. The Mustang was purchased by a classic car restoration shop around my area and they immediately pulled the motor for a restomod. I was told the 390 sat for 10 years, but it is not seized and turns easily. It was obviously rebuilt. My concern is the pitting at the top of the one cylinder and the rust on the crank. Am I able to clean up this rust on my own or does it need to be torn down and taken to a machine shop? I also have a 4bbl S intake with some rust inside the plenum and runners. I’m not trying to build a race engine just something with some more power than the current 360. As I was filling the radiator back up today, I noticed the front of the intake leaking on my 360. So I’m try to decide do I just reseal that, do I replace it with the 4bbl S intake or do I just do the motor after getting it cleaned up while the fenders are all off? Like most money is tight, I just purchased a AAW classic update wire harness kit. Please let me know your thoughts! Thank you in advance!

 

Welcome to FTE!

Depending on the combustion chamber size, and how far from the deck those actually end up, and your choice of gasket, those pistons could give you 10+ compression. Carefully measure and calculate the compression ratio. Aluminum heads and an aggressive cam will counter higher compression but I'm not reading a desire for that in your post.

The rust that we can see isn't a deal killer but you don't want to seal it up and run it with all that rust. Plus, we can't see the cam lobes and main/rod journals. Probably ok but this is a fair amount of work to swap out an engine only to have it start to burn oil or run poorly in a short time. Maybe pull a main cap and rod cap or two and see what they look like. I'm not sure how to clean up all the rust though. Lots of little flakes to run through the bearings and oil pump.....

Since you already added headers, the 4bbl manifold and a 600ish CFM carb will wake up the 360.

That 390 will really wake up your truck. Decisions decisions....

 

I really appreciate your response! I have a Quickfuel 680cfm vs carb, MSD 6AL and Blaster 2 coil from my Chevelle before I switched it to the Holley Sniper EFI. My 360 already has a GM style HEI distributor. It might be a little too much carb, but I was planning on running that setup with the 390. Maybe I should swap the intakes and run that now? I’m thinking about getting the intake hot tanked before I install it. I was told the 360 had a mild cam, but not sure any specs. Unfortunately, I might have to tear the 390 down and send the block to a machine shop and see if they can clean it up. I was hoping it would be something I could do in my garage.

Please keep the suggestions coming!! I’m new to the Ford fe’s and really enjoy learning.

 

I would send the 390 block to the machine shop as is if you go that route of having it cleaned up and checked out (sonic checked and check for core shift). Opinion: replace the steel freeze plugs with brass while they're at it. In the mean time, have fun with the 360 and install that 4-barrel intake after you clean it up. Use a 1" phelonic spacer and install the QF 680cfm carburetor. I don't believe that will be too large as i have a 600cfm vs on mine without flooding issues.

I would develop a good plan for that 390, build it exactly how you want and buy time using the 360 with the 4-barrel intake, and HEI distributor. You can swap distributors later if you want to get away from the HEI, or if $$ is available do that now so you can use the MSD and blaster coil. Cool stuff man!

 

Thanks for the response!

I think for now I’m going to swap the intake and put my QF680 on it. I might possibly break down and get the MSD distributor to go with the rest of the ignition I already have. I really want to drive the truck. The 4bbl intake has rust on the inside and I’m thinking of trying to soak it in vinegar for a few days. Does anyone think this is worth it or a waste of time? I’m trying to avoid the cost of a machine shop. I can only imagine what would be charged.

I’m disappointed in the 390 I purchased because I was under the impression that it would be ready to run. When I send it to a machine shop, would you recommend leaving it assembled as it is or tearing it down? I’m a little concerned that the cost of the machine work is going to exceed the price I paid for the 390. I have buyers remorse because now I know I paid too much for it and probably should have saved a little more for a newly rebuilt 390 short block.

Again, I welcome any and all opinions on this! Thanks again!

 

Marion5 I would clean the intake to the best of your ability, paint it the color you want, and go for it. Have you done a FE intake swap before? Do some reading on this as there is more to it than a small block... The pep of the 360 with a 4-barrel will keep you happy while you build the 390.

As far as the 390 short block goes, I wouldn't stress that being an issue just yet. Save your money and get it to a machine shop/machinist/FE builder so it can get checked out as it is. It maybe perfectly fine, but the insurance of having someone verify will be worth it versus slapping it in and finding problems after you've spent time and money only to take it back out.

Everyone in this forum has had a set back at some point with their builds and maybe even lost some money, but that's learning and part of it. You'll be driving a truck that'll snap the necks of every Chevy guy out there (I get more stares at my truck from Chevy guys for whatever reason lol).

 

Eric, I want to thank you for your help, your kindness and your support with this. I’m very tough on myself and sometimes I need the reassurance not to worry about certain things. I learned a ton from restoring my Chevelle, mostly from making mistakes! I need to remember that things don’t need to be perfect. Thank you!

I have been reading Barry Rabotnick’s How to rebuild Ford Fe Engines and Jow to build Max-Performance Ford fe Engines. So, I have a pretty good guide for replacing the intake. The main thing I see different from a sbc is the push rods running through the intake itself. I’m going to start soaking the 4bbl intake in vinegar today and putting together a plan for installing it along with the additional of my 4bbl carb. I also need to get started on the rewiring of my truck. I think I got a little ahead of myself with the 390.

I just love my truck. The majority of people would just think it’s a pos. But, I’m sure they thought that when I first got my Chevelle. I love old vehicles and throughly enjoy learning and working on them out in my garage.

Again, I greatly appreciate any suggestions, etc. Thanks Eric and everyone else!

 

If you have an engine stand and hoist, take it apart. Do the bores even have cross hatching? You can clean it all up and then take the block to be checked. If the crank has surface rust, the cam probably does too. Measure the bores. As far as the intake goes, clean it up and use it like mentioned above. They are heavy. Two people make it easier with an engine in the truck. On and engine stand it is not that bad. You want to set it straight down where it belongs. I would definitely like a better intake for my 390fe, maybe later.

 

"I have been reading Barry Rabotnick’s How to rebuild Ford Fe Engines and Jow to build Max-Performance Ford fe Engines."

Can you provide a link for this if it's online? I am in the very beginning process of my 360 to 390 conversion/build project and had a friend make me feel like I was getting in over my head becuase he told me that there are many variations of cams out there and I need to make sure the rear end and torque converter are equipped to handle the motor. Along with that, he told me that I need to make sure that I am getting an intake that gives enough flow, etc. I was going with the assumption that I just get "a cam for a 390" so now I am here to try to get as much detail as possible! Your post being here is very helpful! Sorry, I don't mean to hijack it by any means but hope to gain knowledge.

 

How to Build Max-Performance Ford FE Engines (Performance How-To)
Ford FE Engines: How to Rebuild
These books seem to be very helpful. I understand that the cam, converter and rear differential gearing all need to work together, but it sounds more complicated than it is. I’m not sure these books will help with choosing a converter and rear end gears, but I may not have gotten to that point yet. My best advice would be to read all over these forums and ask questions. There is a wealth of hands on knowledge here! Good Luck with your build!

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the converter and rear end. Or it's gear ratio. This is about a 4500# truck approx., not a light mustang. You just need a mild or "RV" cam. Don't go too crazy on it. You want torque in a heavy vehicle, not horsepower. Basically, torque gets an object moving. Horsepower keeps it at speed.

 

If you take it apart, I would soak the crank and everything that has rust in Evapo-Rust. Have the block dipped and checked out then reassembled.

 

I opened a can of worms and could use some advice. I purchased my 69 F-100 360, 3spd, 2WD in September. Since I converted to power disc brakes, rebuilt suspension, steering, rewired with AAW classic update, new tires. My plan is to replace the 360 with a 390. I bought a 390 that was rebuilt 15-20 years ago, but was never run. I paid too much for it. It is a 390. It has the 2u crank. The crank, rods and pistons look good. The pistons are the Sealed Power .030 stock replacements. The rods are Ford oe. It obviously was rebuilt. But, it has pitting at the top of one of the cylinders. I’ll add a picture. In the meantime of planning on taking it to a machine shop, I decided to fix a couple leaks on my 360. Well one thing led to another and the 360 is on an engine stand and the transmission is sitting on the floor in my garage. Upon getting ready to replace the timing cover gasket and replacing the oil pan, I noticed the cam dowel is sticking about 3/8 out and the washer to hold it in was machined so it doesn’t touch it at all. There is wear on the inside of the timing cover showing where the fuel eccentric is rubbing. This needs to be addressed. I was just going to put on a new timing chain, new oil pan, new oil pump, pump pick up, and hardened distributor shaft. But, now I’m thinking should I just wait for the 390 to do all of this? I’m confident in my 360’s block. I’m not so confident in the 390 block that I bought. I think it may need a sleeve.

1. Do I strip the 360 down to the block and transfer the good 390 rotating assembly to it?

2. Do I put all the new parts on the 360 and just drive it, while I see what a machine shop says about the 390 later? I want to use the machine shop as little as possible just because of the costs of it.



3. Would the cost of putting in a sleeve in the 390 be more than most likely just a clean up and rebore of the 360? Approximate costs of these?

4. I have a set of factory heads. Does anyone know the cost of a rebuild of these?

5. I will need to find a decent cam for the street. Any suggestions?

My goal is to run it as kind of a sleeper on the street. I have the 4bbl S factory intake, 680cfm Quick Fuel HR carb, MSD 6AL with MSD Blaster 2 coil and MSD Billet Distributior, full length Flowtech Headers and a 2.5” Flowmaster exhaust system. I also have a set of the factory adjustable rocker arms.

I appreciate you taking the time to read this. I know it’s a lot! My budget is almost done, so I don’t need the best and really need to just get this truck on the road! I’m not looking for drag truck or anything. Please let me know your thoughts and your advice!! I don’t know the best route to take!

 

You're at a major cross roads here...I would hit the restart button. What you WANT vs: ALLOWED $$ vs: TIME. Pick one of those and set your goal.

Option 1: Have 360 machined .30 over (assuming it is a standard bore) and transfer all 390 rotating over to the previous 360. Pick a cam and be prepared to buy whatever is needed to support that cam. Note a lot of cam failures lately with crappy lifters/break in procedures. Hydraulic roller cams are more 'plug and play' friendly.

Option 2: Remove Fuel pump eccentric from 360, slap it back together with the 4 barrel intake and get it back into the truck asap for driving this summer. Use electric fuel pump.

Option 3: Disassemble both blocks, take to machine shop and get both checked, pick the winner, and build the engine you want from the ground up. Reuse what you can and buy all the goodies you want. Have the factory heads ported or buy aftermarket heads (both are expensive and aftermarket have huge lead times).

No matter what route you pick, go buy some FE literature (Amazon) and read, take notes, build a plan. We're all good guys on here with opinions, but only you know what you want. Visit some FE builder websites and check out dyno results from different builds so you have a reference.

 

I’ve been a little overwhelmed by this for a week now! Of course, I’m kind of a “while I’m here I should do this” person. The flywheel is all cracked so I have one on the way along with a new clutch. I think I’m going with Option 2 right now. My garage is a disaster and I’m ready to drive my truck! I’m going to replace the timing chain with a double roller and put it all back together and drive it. I had a brand new Carter mechanical pump on it. Do you think that’s good or should I go with an electric pump? My first mistake was buying Barry R.’s book on rebuilding a Ford Fe because that lead me buying his book on Getting Max Power out of your Ford Fe! I need to stop the bleeding, get the truck back together, clean the garage and drive it! I pulled the 360 to fix some oil leaks and because when I put the 4bbl intake on it leaked horribly from the back China wall. There’s quite a gap so I may have to use the cork there along with rtv. How’s that sound?

Please any advice is more than appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!