I recently picked up a 2019 F350 with the 3" receiver. All my previous vehicles have had 2" receivers and as such the ball mounts I have always used are 2" as well. I don't pull anything crazy heavy, I have a 28' TT that weighs around 6k wet and a 20' flatbed car trailer that isn't very heavy at all. Is there any reason I should be concerned about using a reducer to run my 2" ball mounts or should I be looking at upgrading to a 3" ball mount?

 

It is all about weight ratings. If the components you are using are all within the weight rating of what you are pulling, it will be fine. Do you use a WDH with your TT? I would imagine a WDH for the 3" would cost you a pretty penny. I am still with the 2" receiver on my old SD, but if I was in your situation, I would stick with the components I have and get a sleeve, and give it a go. If the sleeve caused excessive slop or play, I would re-assess.

 

Yes, the TT uses a WDH with a solid bar style mount so it's plenty sturdy for it's intended purpose. My other go-to is a B&W Tow and Stow hitch with 2" and 2-5'16" *****.

 

Rob has the weight issues covered. If slop in the reducers are a problem, they make large u-bolts meant to control this with reducers. The other option is to weld the reducer to your hitch. Both less expensive option than a new 3" WDH.

 

Some have reported the hitch pin wallowing out the receiver when using reducers. If they were plain ball mounts, I'd suggest getting 3" shanks but it sounds like you have quite a bit invested in your towing setup. There's nothing wrong with reducers as long as all the components are made to support the weight you're towing. Maybe try a couple of sleeves and find one that fits well.

 

I wouldn't weld on the hitch. Though I have made some modifications to hitches in the past (drilled holes), I wouldn't recommend anyone do it. There is a sticker on the OEM hitches (at least there should be - there is on mine) that has ratings listed on it as well as "fine print". The "fine print" states not to do any modifications - cutting, welding, drilling, etc.

If I were to guess a good number of people with the larger (2.5" +) receivers weld the reducers in so they are always there and so no one steals them. I'm sure it works, but it could be an issue down the road if you get in to an accident. I have never had a good time dealing with insurance companies, and I presume most people don't. Do you want to rock that boat? That's up to you.

As noted - there are other methods to tighten up hitches if rattling is an issue.

I have an older Buyers Products height adjustable tri-ball hitch. It is the solid one Northern Tool used to sell. I believe they replaced them with another brand that has hollow shanks. In any event, the BPC has a bolt in the height adjustable bracket to tension the bracket against the height pins. That reduces a significant amount of slop, but there is still play in the receiver (I use a 2.5" to 2" reducer). I have not worried about slop as I don't tow often enough for it to be an issue. If I were towing every day then I would be more concerned.

 

I have a 3" and use a reducer to 2". Been fine with my 10K trailer. My hitch manufacturer doesn't make a 3" or I would upgrade. Per my hitch manufacturer, I made sure I got a 3" to 2" reducer and not the multi piece 3 to 2 1/2 and 2 1/2 to 2. Like this one. https://www.huskytow.com/husky-towin...r-tube-adapter Search for best price. Amazon my carry it too.

 

I recently went through this myself. My truck came with the 3" hitch. I didn't like the slop that came from stacking reducers to get from 3" to 2". I did find a 3-2 reducer but in the end, I replaced my hitches with 3". For my TT, I went with the Andersen WDH, and for everything else I got a B&W. The initial cost is higher this way but there is no slop now which is what I was after.

 

Let's make a differentiation between hitch and receiver. The hitch is the part that goes in the truck mounted receiver and has the hitch ball on it. I'm suggesting welding the adapter to the hitch and not the receiver that is installed by Ford on the truck.

 

I tried the 3" to 2" reducer for my WDH. It was sloppy and as Pugga said, the pin wallowed out the holes. Switching to 3" shanks wasn't cheap, but once it was done I was happy with the result.

 

Thanks for sharing that link, I had no idea such a critter existed.

 

I have used the 3 inch, reducers, and regular 2 inch.

Pulling 14,000 pound trailers.

I don't notice any difference, they all work good.

Good luck, Arne

 

I would get a 3 inch shank, the reducer can and will if you tow enough start to wallow the pin hole on the receiver

 

I would go the other way. Weld a pair of adapters into the hitch and then run 2" stuff for parts commonality with everything else. You can get fancy pants forged solid shank 2" stuff with high weight ratings if your trailer is really befitting of that.