When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My alternator is done so I did some digging and came across these two old post on an alternator upgrade and ability to get rid of the old school voltage regulator. I wanted to throw it out there to see if there are any learning curves not included in these threads. The only thing not adding up is, for me, the unknown of what is being disconnected when the old harness is being removed. Particularly the two black quick connects currently located near the voltage regulator.
Post up a picture of which connectors your asking about. We did the swap on our 300 about 3-4 years ago and have had no issues. If we can do it, so can you.
The only thing we had to do that was not mentioned in those threads and others, is we had to trim the mounting bracket(upper) and elongate the groove (bottom bracket) for the alternator to get it to move up enough to get the belts tight.
They're for trucks with electric choke and for the ammeter. Ammeter cant be used with 3g and if you have factory electric choke you'll have to make mods to it by replacing the cover and wiring to switched 12v.
I am concerned about the two black connectors on the edge of the dark circle.
The one at the lower right goes to where the positive battery cable connects to the solenoid/starter relay. It looks to have a fusible link, so it is probably the charge wire from the alternator. Not sure about the two connectors - accessory power leads? You can trace their partners in the truck if it's assembled.
The factory choke on the truck was powered by a separate lug/terminal on the factory alternator, which actually provided Alternated Current. I guess the 3Gs don't have that? I've only ever put them in EFI 5.0 Stangs, so there was no choke to deal with...
Aftermarket chokes mostly or all take 12V Direct Current, like the rest of the truck uses.
Ford just used electronic choke cap heat assist. Unless you're talking the 5.0 Holley on the Mustang GT or PI LTDII. If you run your truck without, just little warm up time in certain situations. 90's era vans have a great wiring source on the 4.9's for the 3G's. short compact, built in fuse link and charge sense wire. Late 80's 3.0 base Aerostar vans have a never mentioned 70-amp 3G, smaller than the 1G that bolts in with washer under single pulley. Add a soft start regulator to it for no belt squeal. If you have gauges the amp gauge will be useless. Recommend rocket man conversion to volts meter. F100VO.jpg (800×555) (rccinnovations.com).
Big green booger,
I'm not sure where your electrical issue is, but on the install I just did on my 390, it is very tight on the back of the alternator near the head. I think you will need to clock your alternator case so the wires come out the side instead of begind the alternator.
Keep after it and you'll get it figured out.
Bullitt390 posted the below on the original thread on this topic. Is the yellow/blk wire he mentions the one that shared the original quick connect with the red/green coming from the original harness?
Yep...
Red/ Green (or Green/ Red) from the alt to the red/green in the factory harness.
Take the old large gauge Black/ Yellow and tie it into the + side of the solenoid.
Yellow/ White to large power stud on alt.
Alt power wire to + side of solenoid with 175 amp MEGAfuse.
