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Need help/insight on replacing fuel pump

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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 02:40 AM
  #1  
NegusAce's Avatar
NegusAce
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Need help/insight on replacing fuel pump

1999 F250 ECLB V10. My truck has been having a struggle for power issue under load and above 2500rpm that I'm understanding is a bad fuel pump. This is my work truck so I need to get it done asap. Its just me, so taking the bed off isn't an option. With the 33 gallon tank, what all do I need to do to drop the tank? I'm also NOT opposed to cutting a door in the bed above the pump and removing It that way since I have a bedmat anyway and it would seem like the best option in my case. With that scenario, anyone know how far back from the front of the bed to measure to cut?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 02:52 AM
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I would pull the 4 bed bolts, and just pick up one side if it has a stock bed
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 04:57 AM
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mikekerr
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Before you replace the fuel pump, replace the fuel filter. Typically takes under 10 minutes, requires a tool that is readily available for under $20.

I have a 2002 F350 V10 gasser with same issue. Replacement of fuel filter solved the problem.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 06:12 AM
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SDSC4X4
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Originally Posted by mikekerr
Before you replace the fuel pump, replace the fuel filter. Typically takes under 10 minutes, requires a tool that is readily available for under $20.

I have a 2002 F350 V10 gasser with same issue. Replacement of fuel filter solved the problem.
X2 ! Save some trouble and try the filter first--and go with a quality name brand filter. It is also worth the trouble to check the fuel pressure at the injector rails. A failing pressure regulator will give you the same symptoms you are experiencing, and it is a lot simpler to replace. There are several connectors on the wiring to check for corrosion too.

I've done my fuel pump and it wasn't too bad a job for someone with mechanical experience. (In one year, I had to replace the fuel pumps on my V10, Mustang, Windstar and Sidekick! We still call that "The year of the fuel pump." A-r-r-r-g-h!)

This job can be dangerous! A shop about 70 miles from where I live was burned to the ground and the guys in it barely escaped with their lives when they dropped a gas tank and their trouble light shattered, igniting the spilled gasoline. If the tank is empty or near empty it is easier to remove, but even an empty tank poses a very real explosion/fire risk! Even a few ounces of spilled gasoline make a BIG FLAME!

I found several YouTube videos showing how to do the job. I followed one where the guy used rachet straps to raise and lower the tank. I did not use a lift but put the truck on jack stands to get clearance to slide the tank out from under it. Disconnecting and reconnecting the vent lines was the trickiest part of the job. I cut the old lines and replaced them. Be sure to arrange them so they don't kink when you re-install.

After much research, I went with a Delphi pump. I found references that said they supplied Ford with fuel pumps, but I cannot confirm that. The point is that this is a job that you don't want to do it twice because you tried to get by on the cheap and saved a few bucks on the replacement part. I did not replace the sending unit, but it is quicker and easier to replace the complete sending unit--just more expensive--your call!

To avoid getting into a cycle of replacing your fuel pump every 30-50 thousand miles thoroughly clean the tank and replace the charcoal filter and line from it before you put the new pump in. This is especially necessary on high mileage vehicles or those driven on gravel roads. The charcoal canister does NOT filter out dust which can be drawn into the tank and cause the new pump to fail. The filter is above the spare tire.

If you try this, make handling the tank/gasoline your first priority. Bleed the pressure from the system. Shut off any source of ignition like pilot lights and unplug any heater or appliance (refrigerator, etc.) that can start automatically. And do NOT use an incandescent trouble light.! It is not a bad idea to have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher when you lower the tank.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 09:39 AM
  #5  
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markls
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Replacing fuel pump

I have a '99 F350, V-10 long-bed 4x4. My issue was intermittent starting, when it did, it ran fine. Would start a couple of times, and then not start. I agree with others... fuel filter, and I also replaced the IAC as well as I was dreading the fuel pump. I did change the pump by myself, but it's my extra truck, so I took time of multiple days and I cleaned surface rust and painted.

Trick to get gas out... stick a hose deep into the tank and run to another container. I actually ran it to another vehicle. Use an air compressor and stick the nozzle into the tank opening and seal it off with a rag. "Inflate" tank and you can push almost all the gas out into the other vehicle container. A few bolts for the skid plate. Loosen gas filler neck hose to come off. Two straps hold up the tank (4 bolts)... start loosening and have something to support... hydraulic jack, and/or vehicle stands. You'll have to drop about 4 inches so you can unattached hoses on the top. Then drop the tank. Pull fuel pump, clean/washout, and then put a new one in. Reverse order to put back in. Agree with other warnings... careful if using lights or other things that could ignite.

Again, I did this all on my own (at 53 years old) in my spare time. Handy, but not a mechanic.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 01:25 PM
  #6  
NegusAce's Avatar
NegusAce
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Originally Posted by JacobKeeling
I would pull the 4 bed bolts, and just pick up one side if it has a stock bed
Stock longbed with 4 bolts, I was always told lifting tht bed isn't a one person job?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 01:26 PM
  #7  
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NegusAce
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Originally Posted by mikekerr
Before you replace the fuel pump, replace the fuel filter. Typically takes under 10 minutes, requires a tool that is readily available for under $20.

I have a 2002 F350 V10 gasser with same issue. Replacement of fuel filter solved the problem.
I've already bought a new pump with filters,but isn't the filter in the tank with the pump?
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 01:28 PM
  #8  
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NegusAce
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Originally Posted by SDSC4X4
X2 ! Save some trouble and try the filter first--and go with a quality name brand filter. It is also worth the trouble to check the fuel pressure at the injector rails. A failing pressure regulator will give you the same symptoms you are experiencing, and it is a lot simpler to replace. There are several connectors on the wiring to check for corrosion too.

I've done my fuel pump and it wasn't too bad a job for someone with mechanical experience. (In one year, I had to replace the fuel pumps on my V10, Mustang, Windstar and Sidekick! We still call that "The year of the fuel pump." A-r-r-r-g-h!)

This job can be dangerous! A shop about 70 miles from where I live was burned to the ground and the guys in it barely escaped with their lives when they dropped a gas tank and their trouble light shattered, igniting the spilled gasoline. If the tank is empty or near empty it is easier to remove, but even an empty tank poses a very real explosion/fire risk! Even a few ounces of spilled gasoline make a BIG FLAME!

I found several YouTube videos showing how to do the job. I followed one where the guy used rachet straps to raise and lower the tank. I did not use a lift but put the truck on jack stands to get clearance to slide the tank out from under it. Disconnecting and reconnecting the vent lines was the trickiest part of the job. I cut the old lines and replaced them. Be sure to arrange them so they don't kink when you re-install.

After much research, I went with a Delphi pump. I found references that said they supplied Ford with fuel pumps, but I cannot confirm that. The point is that this is a job that you don't want to do it twice because you tried to get by on the cheap and saved a few bucks on the replacement part. I did not replace the sending unit, but it is quicker and easier to replace the complete sending unit--just more expensive--your call!

To avoid getting into a cycle of replacing your fuel pump every 30-50 thousand miles thoroughly clean the tank and replace the charcoal filter and line from it before you put the new pump in. This is especially necessary on high mileage vehicles or those driven on gravel roads. The charcoal canister does NOT filter out dust which can be drawn into the tank and cause the new pump to fail. The filter is above the spare tire.

If you try this, make handling the tank/gasoline your first priority. Bleed the pressure from the system. Shut off any source of ignition like pilot lights and unplug any heater or appliance (refrigerator, etc.) that can start automatically. And do NOT use an incandescent trouble light.! It is not a bad idea to have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher when you lower the tank.
I'm doing it in an empty tank, and I couldn't find a YouTube video for it everyone seemed to want to lift the bed and the one one I did find with dropping tht tank were two Billies who didn't help or provide instruction at all 🤦🏿‍♂️. Will be doing it in daylight and not using any assisted lighting and no flammable sources nearby.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2022 | 01:29 PM
  #9  
NegusAce's Avatar
NegusAce
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Originally Posted by markls
I have a '99 F350, V-10 long-bed 4x4. My issue was intermittent starting, when it did, it ran fine. Would start a couple of times, and then not start. I agree with others... fuel filter, and I also replaced the IAC as well as I was dreading the fuel pump. I did change the pump by myself, but it's my extra truck, so I took time of multiple days and I cleaned surface rust and painted.

Trick to get gas out... stick a hose deep into the tank and run to another container. I actually ran it to another vehicle. Use an air compressor and stick the nozzle into the tank opening and seal it off with a rag. "Inflate" tank and you can push almost all the gas out into the other vehicle container. A few bolts for the skid plate. Loosen gas filler neck hose to come off. Two straps hold up the tank (4 bolts)... start loosening and have something to support... hydraulic jack, and/or vehicle stands. You'll have to drop about 4 inches so you can unattached hoses on the top. Then drop the tank. Pull fuel pump, clean/washout, and then put a new one in. Reverse order to put back in. Agree with other warnings... careful if using lights or other things that could ignite.

Again, I did this all on my own (at 53 years old) in my spare time. Handy, but not a mechanic.
Thanks for the simple instructions. I'm very mechanically inclined so I'm not adverse to taking it on at all,just want to make sure I don't blow or break something. Gonna use ratchet straps to help me support/lower it
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 08:34 AM
  #10  
SDSC4X4's Avatar
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Originally Posted by NegusAce
I'm doing it in an empty tank, and I couldn't find a YouTube video for it everyone seemed to want to lift the bed and the one one I did find with dropping tht tank were two Billies who didn't help or provide instruction at all 🤦🏿‍♂️. Will be doing it in daylight and not using any assisted lighting and no flammable sources nearby.
I checked my bookmarks and apparently didn't save the link or I would post it for you--Sorry! I guess I thought it was something I would not forget how to do.

Do NOT forget to disconnect the battery first!

I disconnect the fill tube from the box at the fill door, then removed the skid plate, used a couple of cheap nylon rachet straps, one about 1/4 of the way from each end of the tank, to lower the tank to the point I could reach above it and disconnect the electrical and cut the vent hoses. Then I slowly ratcheted the straps down a few clicks each, alternating from front to back. When it was on the floor, I slid the tank out from under the truck and proceeded with one of the videos that shows how to do the pump itself. I carefully washed the top of the tank before removing the access plate using a nylon brush and water.
 
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