Need tips on fuel pump change
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
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Need tips on fuel pump change
I gotta change the fule pump on my 92 f150 4X2 with the 18 gal. steel tank in the rear. Is there anything I will need besides the new pump and strainer. Also any tips would be apreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 2,358
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From: Nebraska
It's not that bad dropping the tank. The emptier the better. Every pump of this style I've done has a strainer with it. I'd recommend a pump from Ford. Although it's more expensive, some cheaper aftermarket pumps are junk, and a fuel pump isn't something too easy to change on the side of the road.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 136
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Ive done it both ways. Both ways by myself. When I dropped the tank I hated it. It was aggrivating and very difficult to get the lines&wires on/off. I found it easier to pull the bed off. Theres one wire warness to pull apart, then you have to loosen the gas fill neck, then theres 8 nuts holding the bed itself on. After that you can lift the bed from the side put in prybar to hold it up and you will have EASY access to the pump. The job itself will take 5 minutes. Then pull out the prybar holding the side of the bed up and lower it back into place.
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From: Leesburg, Ga
Originally Posted by tim73
Ive done it both ways. Both ways by myself. When I dropped the tank I hated it. It was aggrivating and very difficult to get the lines&wires on/off. I found it easier to pull the bed off. Theres one wire warness to pull apart, then you have to loosen the gas fill neck, then theres 8 nuts holding the bed itself on. After that you can lift the bed from the side put in prybar to hold it up and you will have EASY access to the pump. The job itself will take 5 minutes. Then pull out the prybar holding the side of the bed up and lower it back into place.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Leesburg, Ga
Originally Posted by brown 4x4
It's not that bad dropping the tank. The emptier the better. Every pump of this style I've done has a strainer with it. I'd recommend a pump from Ford. Although it's more expensive, some cheaper aftermarket pumps are junk, and a fuel pump isn't something too easy to change on the side of the road.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
If you run the tank near empty that is a big help. On my 88 I unhooked the tailpipe from the hanger so I could push it to the side,and used my floor jack with one of those plastic empty milk crates on top of it to help in lowering the tank a little so I could get my hand in to remove the wire harness and fuel lines.It is tight and frustrating. If the bolts can be loosened on the box and lifted even a few inches it makes it a lot easier. But usually the box bolts are so rusted they have to be cut off and replaced,but may be worth the time.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Yeah, it depends on how rusty the underside is. If it's clean, then taking the bed off is way easier. If it's rusty, though, it's going to suck no matter which way you do it. Taking the bed off is easy. You have to unbolt the rear bumper, disconnect the one wiring harness, unbolt the fuel filler tubes, and unbolt it. I think mine only had six bolts, and it was a longbed. Taking the bed off is all but impossible with one person. I'm on the short side (5'7") and it was tough for me to lift it up high enough. My buddy is about 6'2". I'd recommend being tall if you can. 
One other tip - the ring that holds the pump in place gets rusty and hitting it with a hammer is a BAD idea, because of sparks. What I do is get a pair of vise grips and grab one of the tabs and hit the vise grips with a hammer. You'll see what I mean when you get in there. I tried it a couple different ways and found that way to be the best.
One other tip - the ring that holds the pump in place gets rusty and hitting it with a hammer is a BAD idea, because of sparks. What I do is get a pair of vise grips and grab one of the tabs and hit the vise grips with a hammer. You'll see what I mean when you get in there. I tried it a couple different ways and found that way to be the best.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 136
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I have a short bed, Florida truck, so no rust here, just alot of dirt. The bed is a little heavy, I am not to tall either, but just pick up one side enough to get something to hold it up with(I used a crow bar). I didnt have to take off my bumper, only had to unhook the wiring harness(It runs along the drivers side of the frame) and hooks into the tail light wires. BTW earlier I said theres 8 nuts holding the bed on, theres actaully only 6. The bolts are weird, the holes are elongated, so the bolts are too and that makes it so they dont turn when you are loosening the nuts. If you think you will be having problems, hit it will some kroil or blaster a few hours before, both on top and from the bottom.
Last edited by tim73; Jun 20, 2006 at 05:59 PM.
Senior User
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Originally Posted by mississauga
To add, you can also use a brass drift to strike the tangs without creating a spark.
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i had to cut into the bolts from the top. they were seized from age when i tried loosening them from underneath. some of the nuts got stripped or the bolts themselves just spun.
how should i go about replacing those bolts? should i go to the ford dealer for 6 replacements? or could i just grab some generic ones from the hardware store?
how should i go about replacing those bolts? should i go to the ford dealer for 6 replacements? or could i just grab some generic ones from the hardware store?
Last edited by bluneon; Jun 29, 2006 at 12:23 PM.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
I would say so. I have doing some frame work with the bed off and everthing is right in front of you. You can do the jobs standing up. Good time to check the straps especially on the side tank. Mine had rust underneath them and there was small pinholes in the tank which were not leaking enough to be noticed. Ordered a new replacement tank today.