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Welcome to FTE.
On the vacuum lines do you have smog check where you are at?
Do you have the vacuum routing sticker on the radiator support??
What dio you still have in place for vacuum lines??
I don't know what is in the explore package could just be badges and stickers..
The AC & wheel would come in other packages as I had a 81 F100 Ranger that had AC and wood.
Do you mean I get a smog check done? If so, then no.
I got this truck from a guy who let a local high school do the carb rebuild on it 3 times and it never ran right afterward so it's an open mystery what I have connected.
I've got the rebuild kit for the Carter YFA carb and I'm going to be very careful to hopefully get it back to the proper condition. My buddy took it off before I got there and didn't take any pictures of it before he started messing with it, he then put the float and the metering rod in wrong so it explained on the surface why it won't fire.
I don't expect there to be a plethora of information I've simply missed out there but I've got faint hopes and if something turns up then maybe it will help someone in the future.
Passenger side of the carb Drivers side of the carb
So it looks like you don't have much, 1 hose, hooked up.
Dose that go to the distributor? housing. So it should be ported vacuum. No vacuum at idle but has vacuum when the throttle opens.
That other nipple is for the fresh air to the choke.
Hose from there to the top of the exhaust manifold.
Another hose out the bottom to the choke housing.
Do you have a vacuum hose sticker on the radiator support?
What air filter do you have for the truck?
No smog check is good and you don't have ACfrom what I see, power brakes?
Dave ----
I'll have to drive over and confirm if I have a sticker, I never thought of checking but the yellow hose goes to the distributor, it got broken during removal but we taped it up for testing. I've been trying to figure out what specifically it's called so I can order a replacement.
Power brakes yes, no AC though.
This is what it looked like before we took the air cleaner off and started fiddling with it. It was -30 on that day so I wasn't lingering.
I'm being fairly generous with the term rebuilt. The gaskets are all very new but everything else looks old as hell. I wish I had a parts washer, I'd pretty this all up. I'm done the tear down now so time to very methodically clean what I can and assemble it. The diagrams provided with these old systems are stunningly hard to read. Luckily I found a guy on youtube with a complete YFA rebuilt that is close enough to mine to follow.
Carb cleaner in a spray can does ok. The best is to buy a gallon parts cleaner from the auto parts store. It has a little basket in it for small parts also. I guess they still sell it. Knowing the EPA they have probably banned the good cleaner.
On the plus side the rebuild seems to have gone fairly well and everything checks out. If it still doesn't start when I get this back on later I'm going to have to start messing with distributor timing.
Anyone have a good walkthrough on that for someone who is aware of it but not well versed in it?
Make sure when you work the throttle, you are squirting fuel into the engine. If not, get that fixed first.
On the timing, take out #1 sparkplug. Hold your finger over the hole as you bump the engine around. Once it starts trying to blow your finger off the hole stop, and the turn the engine by hand the same direction till the timing marks come up. Put it on about 10 BTDC mark. Once you have the engine set, pull the dist cap off, the rotor should be pointing to the wire that goes to #1 sparkplug. If it's not, fix that.
. The best is to buy a gallon parts cleaner from the auto parts store. It has a little basket in it for small parts also. I guess they still sell it. Knowing the EPA they have probably banned the good cleaner.
They're still available, but people say that the toxic juice within is less effective now than it used to be (the EPA's contribution)..
The one l have is Gunk and l actually got it from Amazon. Other brands are available but Gunk had the best reviews... l haven't used it yet so l can't yet comment on it's efficacy vs "the old days".
Berryman's B12 makes for a pretty dandy pour-able cleaner for soaking small parts too. Also Simple Green. Careful w the Simple Green, lve had it remove anodizing.
The throttle seems to be ok so we're moving on from that, I won't be able to check the timing until tomorrow but your method Franklin is basically our plan. I'm hoping the high school students just messed it up by accident.
Smallest parts washer I can find around here is 3.5 gallon which is probably small enough, I'll just dump some varsol in it and call it good.
WOW you got a lot of (bad) going on under the hood
The good is it all can be fixed.
That yellow plastic line replace it with all rubber hose and any other plastic lines that might still be on the motor.
I did see the choke dose use hot air & electric to make it work right.
What is with the metal gas line from pump to carb?
I see it has a rubber hose on the end going to what?
I also doing think that carb is the right one for that year truck.
I say this because I am not seeing a bowl vent on it that the carb would have.
If the carb works then use it, no need to replace it because it dose not have the vent.
Do you have that vacuum sticker on the radiator support?.
It will help to get every thing back in place and working but we may need to make some changes it you have parts missing.
My 81 F100 with a 300 six has some things missing so I had to re-route hoses that I felt were needed for the weather I will drive the truck in.
To bad its so cold, I see snow, I would say de-grease the engine bay so you can see what you are working on LOL
Dave ----
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