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Ok assuming I am doing this right (which is bold) I have 10 on the engine and 10 on the gun matching. It still doesn’t give full vacuum. I’m going to leave it for a while and let it warm up.
Oh you kept saying the timing marks were under the motor?
Mine are kind of at the 10 oclock area looking at the front of the motor.
I cant remember if the numbers are on a plate or the balancer?
Where ever they are you should find the notch and the 0* & 10* BTDC and mark them both to make it easy to see with the light.
A dial back timing light is what you really need as you can then check advance.
Dave ----
Oh you kept saying the timing marks were under the motor?
Mine are kind of at the 10 oclock area looking at the front of the motor.
I cant remember if the numbers are on a plate or the balancer?
Where ever they are you should find the notch and the 0* & 10* BTDC and mark them both to make it easy to see with the light.
A dial back timing light is what you really need as you can then check advance.
Dave ----
I was probably over selling it saying under the engine 10 o clock is about where it is.
I can definitely see the mark while the light is running but it’s damned hard to take a picture of.
Ok you are a little off on how the light works.
It can be used 2 different ways.
1- put the light at 0 and then check the marks on the motor. What the marks show it the timing.
So with light at 0 and say the marks show 5* TDC that is where the timing is at 5* BTDC
OR
Line the marks up on the motor to 0 and turn the dial on the light to keep the marks lined up at 0.
If I had to guess what you have with the marks & light at 10* the motor is at 0* or maybe 10* ATDC? (after top dead center)
Remember you want BTDC (before top dead center)
I like to mark the motor for TDC and the notch and turn the dial to keep the marks line up at 0* then look at the light and it will point to what the timing is on the motor.
Dave ----
Ok you are a little off on how the light works.
It can be used 2 different ways.
1- put the light at 0 and then check the marks on the motor. What the marks show it the timing.
So with light at 0 and say the marks show 5* TDC that is where the timing is at 5* BTDC
OR
Line the marks up on the motor to 0 and turn the dial on the light to keep the marks lined up at 0.
If I had to guess what you have with the marks & light at 10* the motor is at 0* or maybe 10* ATDC? (after top dead center)
Remember you want BTDC (before top dead center)
I like to mark the motor for TDC and the notch and turn the dial to keep the marks line up at 0* then look at the light and it will point to what the timing is on the motor.
Dave ----
Oh ok that makes sense. So my having it showing 10 at 10 on the light means it’s out? That makes sense when I think about it. I’ll take a look.
edit: when the light is set to 0 the mark is around 9 o’clock positioning. Like maybe 25*btdc if I had to guess?
Ok assuming I am doing this right (which is bold) I have 10 on the engine and 10 on the gun matching. It still doesn’t give full vacuum. I’m going to leave it for a while and let it warm up. There are 2 screws in this picture.
The lower one kind of under that wing thing is the idle mixture screw. As a start 1.5 turns out from lightly seated.
The other just up from it that looks like it has a spring compressed all the way I think it the idle speed screw.
Dose the end hit the body of the carb? If so it is the idle speed screw.
When you get the timing adjusted I bet the idle speed will be to high just turn that screw out to lower the idle speed.
The screw with the spring looks to be the fast idle screw. See that strep thing just behind it dose the screw touch it if the choke is closed?
If so it is the fast idle speed screw and gets adjusted with motor cold and choke on but dont worry about it just yet.
I added to each picture what the screws do to help you.
I also posted how to use the light and with it and the vacuum gauge you should be able to get the timing dialed in.
Just remember the timing is done with the hose removed and plugged.
You are getting there just a little more tuning
Dave ----
Question?
Where dose the yellow plastic hose go to?
1 end looks to be under the carb with duct tape on it but I dont see or know where the other end goes?
If it goes to the dist. and was pulled to check timing you have the wrong end plugged LOL
We normally pull the hose off the dist. and plug the hose at the dist.
The hose is pulled and plugged because sometimes the idle is to high and opens the port to send vacuum to that hose and then it advances timing.
Sometimes the idle can be set and the port the hose is on still have vacuum and why it is pulled.
As for plugging if it has vacuum on it you will have a vacuum leak and can throw off your adjustments.
Dave ----
Thanks dude. This is hard to follow on my phone so I apologize if my answers are disjointed.
Its ok as I also have a hard time when on my phone.
Any long replys I have to do on my laptop
62 year old fingers and 1.5 eye makes the phone hard
Dave ----
It does go to the distributor. The connector on the carb broke when I pulled it in January so I used some tubing to correct it and it was easier to reach. I can attempt to disconnect the other end but I’m nervous I’ll break it as well.
It does go to the distributor. The connector on the carb broke when I pulled it in January so I used some tubing to correct it and it was easier to reach. I can attempt to disconnect the other end but I’m nervous I’ll break it as well.
LOL you dont need to plug the hose if it is still on the dist as shown LOL
You need to plug the carb side so you dont have a vacuum leak.
Most of the time we pull it off the dist. because with the air filter in place it can be hard to get to the carb side.
As long as you dont have a vacuum leak at the carb side you can remove the hose from either the carb, like you did, or dist.
Dave ----
Ah well then I’m a dumb but also happened to cover my bases. I taped both ends shut.
I don’t appear to have a vacuum leak as it very nearly went into the green after idling for 20 minutes. I’m attempting to zero out the timing difference noted without making my life worse than it is currently.
You are doing good for not knowing, we all started off like you, not knowing.
Did you adjust the timing yet to get it into the green or it did it just warming up?
If you think the vacuum is high (in the green) wait till you get the timing and carb set up right.
On the dist. and turning it you tighten the hold down enough so the dist. will not turn when running but with a little force you can move it by hand.
Because it may be hot I take a hammer and lightly tap the vacuum can in the direction needed.
Mine is left that way right now.
Dave ----
I’m a farm boy who moved to the city so this isn’t entirely foreign to me but I haven’t done anything in 20 years. With the idle screw almost all the way in we can keep it idling, but any movement of the distributor makes it worse rather than better. So getting it green never quite happened.
I’m a farm boy who moved to the city so this isn’t entirely foreign to me but I haven’t done anything in 20 years. With the idle screw almost all the way in we can keep it idling, but any movement of the distributor makes it worse rather than better. So getting it green never quite happened.
What way are you turning the dist. that it run worst?
Turning the dist. counter clock wise (CCW) and it run worst?
What is the timing set to? The marks on the motor lined up to 0* and you turn the **** on the light what did it end up at?
I cant see it running worst no matter what way you turn the dist. as it dost not make sense to me?
Dave ----
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