Hey everyone,

I recently purchased a 2007 F350 6.0 that has had a lot of work done, receipts from ford dealer etc. Yesterday after about a two hour round trip in the truck just as I was pulling into my neighbourhood I noticed that they battery light came on at lower speeds but would flicker. I assumed my battery cables had come loose so I checked then when I got home and they were tight. My next thought was possibly the alternator. This morning I had to drive to work (roughly 30 minutes) about 10 minutes into my drive the battery light came back on while at highway speed with no other issues. Another 10 minutes into the drive I noticed that the radio went off and the wrench light appeared and then the truck started surging while under acceleration but not too bad, followed by the ABS light, I quickly checked abs all my temps were fine and there were no other issues besides the 3 lights on the dash and the surging. I got to work checked under the hood and everything looks good, all the fluids looked good etc. I’m new to the world of diesels and looking for a few ideas. I saw on the form when I looked up different lights I’d get EOT/ECT etc but they all seemed fine but nothing with all the lights together. I’m really assuming it’s electrical because the battery light was on first. Any ideas would greatly appreciated.

 

Alternator is bad. Don't cheap out and buy a parts store rebuilt (or parts store new), ONLY buy a new Motorcraft from either your dealer or Rock Auto. DO NOT let the parts store tell you "bring it in and we will test it for you" as those machines are often wrong.

Take note that a wiring/connector issue may be your problem but typically it's the alternator.

-- Dave

 

In my experience, alternators have more "new out of box" failures than any other part you can purchase, especially rebuilt alternators.

Follow the above advice from Djosbun when getting a replacement. On the 6.0L Power Stroke, having a marginal electrical system can lead to expensive engine issues (spelled FICM). You're saving time and money by getting the best alternator you can to start with.

 

It's funny, I have the same problem with my '06 5.4 SD. Flickering battery light. I went to post up and saw your question, so I hung back as to not clog up the board.

I put load tester on battery to check charging, and it was weak. I went to Rock Auto yesterday morning, and my NEW MotorCraft 130A alternator was delivered at noon today.

I'm so glad it arrived, because temps are in the 30's today, and will be in the single digits tomorrow. Working outside in the cold blows. Here in New England, working out in 30 +/- weather is not considered cold. lol

 

It all depends on who does the rebuilding,,I've been in the auto electric business (Mom and pop style starter & alternator shop) for 32 years and my return rate is nearly zero and when i do have problems it generally because of installation error.

 

My comment was more directed at national chain parts store rebuilds. Local "Ma & Pop" rebuild shops cannot treat their customers that way, or they won't be in business very long. I have no qualms about having a local shop rebuild an alternator for me, or a radiator or starter.

 

After you install the new alternator I strongly recommend that you have the batteries individually tested, failing alternators commonly kill batteries. Next with good batteries and alternator, check the FICM. Low batteries & bad/failing alternators damage, cripple, and eventually kill FICM's. You should read the tech folder in the 6.0 section. Good luck, Russ
P.S. ficmrepair.com is a great resource, also dieseltechron and srmastertech on youtube have good 6.0 info, I have poor luck with aftermarket parts so I recomend Ford, Motorcraft, OEM parts. The only exception I can think of is the BPD EGR cooler. IMO, stock with no tunes or mods and maintenance done per the special operating conditions maintenance schedule gives the best results on a 6.0. Reliability is commonly (and sadly) compromised by people trying to make their trucks "better" or "bullet proof".

 

Dont toss parts at it.
Dont replace an expensive alternator without some basic troubleshooting?
I see no mention of voltage readings? Do you have a VOM? If not get one they are cheap. With the truck running you should see 14.2 or more VDC at the batteries.
If not check the battery cables on all ends. Still low VDC?
Next load test each battery individually disconnected (if you have 2, likely with a 6.0). A decent battery load tester is cheap. They have a meter on them as well that indicated load as well as charging system output.
Don't ignore the battery cables. Check them for corrosion and high resistance. Fresh cables and connections often cure many common problems.

After this basic troubleshooting, the prob persists its time to get the computer read for pending and present codes.

 

Do not rely on the new alternator to recharge dead batteries
A whole bunch of out of the box no good alternators get that way by not recharging the battery(s)
If you can find a new Motorcraft alternator that would be great!

 

Have you heard a technician tell you to go easy on those heated seats?
Well now you have
They kill alternators as fast as the old Lincolns did with the heated windshields