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The wiring near the terminal, looks like a flat sided donut. I don't think you do, but curious as it may complicate troubleshooting. There's debate as to whether or not there is BMS in your truck. I think it's the BCM doing load shedding because of fluctuation in your electrical and not BMS stuff. Either way... Are you sure all your grounds are good? Good contact, separated and physically spaced/adequately distanced from each other? Are your batteries both good and have they been load tested separately? Optimas are not the same as they were years ago, quality is not so hot anymore even at their price point. A properly wired cap shouldn't make things worse. I agree with checking the alternator as well. I'm no stereo guy, maybe find a high-end stereo shop to take a look. Please post back when you figure it out.
Alright guys what I have on my positive terminal is a black flat square right off to the side of the terminal with a 4 to 6 gauge wire actually made into the plastic. This has to be the BMS pole for the system. I also cranked the truck and sitting idle with no load from the system I'm steady 14.4 to 14.5. as soon as the load comes into play I'm still rocking the 14.4. I cant blast right now because everyone would shoot me but I have everything with me for a trail run tomorrow. Is there a way to unplug this battery management system and take a test?
As of this afternoon we now have an airbag warning on the instrument cluster and god some reason my trailer brake module and my stabilitrak hard button do not work. The TBM is saying fault. What in the hell is up with this crap.
I think what they’re getting at is how much money did you save doing the install on your own? Meaning… was it worth it to diy Vs paying a shop to iron out the kinks in the system. But we also don’t know your backround in car audio. Your system is by no means something a novice should attempt. But maybe your knowledge is deeper than any of the installers in your area. It with you tube and the internet, diy has become much easier.
I have been wiring systems and radios since 2011. I'm pretty good at it if the vehicle cooperates. But these new vehicles man they will fight till the death
Without putting a meter on it I'd look at the alternator. Sounds like it isn't actually charging. You need an ammeter to be sure, an alternator can make voltage and not flow any current. But the voltage drop you are seeing could come from the alternator not putting out enough current. Since volts times amps equals watts (V*A=W or A=W/V), you need a lot of current flow. You might try using a second battery with an isolator just for the sound system.
He should invest in a d/c current meter, then this IS NO Guessing If The Alternator is Charging.
With that meter you can check the alternator output and the amplifier output. You may need an assistant to apply throttle to your engine
as you check your alternator with all lights on a/c or heater on high, heater seats. Then check your battery lead to your amp when its
cranked up, Voltage shouldn't drop under 13 volts for most of this test. I was testing my alternator on my 05 excursion with a 2500 watt inverter
I have been wiring systems and radios since 2011. I'm pretty good at it if the vehicle cooperates. But these new vehicles man they will fight till the death
I'm guessing I'm either reading wrong or I have missed something here. Are you asking how much an install would cost me, or how much I would charge, or just being that guy that goes beyond the scope of what I need help with and would like to prove a point that pro install is the only way to go. Someone help me out here
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