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Have you fitted the JL Audio C1-650x in your rear doors yet? Crutchfield indicates they won't fit due to the mounting height being too high.
I was able to install them without a problem. I was moving the speaker box and realized JL put generic brackets in with them. Instead of waiting for the Metra ones to show up I tried the JL ones and they did the trick. I'll see if the Metra are any better or worse next week. All I've changed so far are the door speakers and it seems to make a huge difference. I can't wait to get my tweeters in there as well as the amp and new sub.
I'm upgrading my audio. This is kind of a first for me diving into audio. Am I missing anything in my list below that I plan to install? I have a 2020 F350 w/ B&O. Thanks for any opinions.
1. Nav-TV Zen A2B
2. JL Audio C1-690 (60w @ 4 ohms) & C1-650X (50w @ 4 ohms) Doors
3. PAC APH-FD02 wire harness. So I don't have to cut the stock speaker plug.
4. Infinity Kappa Five 5 ch. (75w x4 @ 4 ohms plus 350w sub amp)
5. Infinity REF1000S 10" shallow mount subwoofer (200 watt 2 or 4 ohm selectable)
6. Supercrew sub enclosure (https://www.supercrewsound.com/product1389.html) or something similar or I'll build one
7. 4 ga power and ground from battery
8. Dynaliner for doors
Look into MTI Acoustics. they have some enclosures that can go behind the rear seat or under the rear seat that do not require any lift and or seat brackets. Also look at their door access cover panels
Look into MTI Acoustics. they have some enclosures that can go behind the rear seat or under the rear seat that do not require any lift and or seat brackets. Also look at their door access cover panels
I've seen MTI. It looks like they have some nice options. I might end up with a single from them if I don't build it myself.
I was able to temporarily install my Zen module and amp yesterday. Everything works well. I need to mount them once I have an enclosure to measure off of. I still need to install the tweeters also. Maybe today if it's not too cold.
Anyone just replace the speakers? In my last two trucks that’s all I did, went with crutchrields most popular choices, it made the difference I needed, really just cleaned up the sound. I don’t need loud.
Anyone just replace the speakers? In my last two trucks that’s all I did, went with crutchrields most popular choices, it made the difference I needed, really just cleaned up the sound. I don’t need loud.
That was the first thing I did (post 16...) Just the door speakers seemed to make a big difference.
I finally got to the tweeters. I thought it would be harder than it was. I did end up running new wires all the way back to the amp. Here is what I made up for brackets. A very simple strap set up. I installed the tweeters in the mounting cups that JL Audio sent with them. It worked out well.
The only things left to do is mount the amp permanently and make or buy a sub box.
I was able to install them without a problem. I was moving the speaker box and realized JL put generic brackets in with them. Instead of waiting for the Metra ones to show up I tried the JL ones and they did the trick. I'll see if the Metra are any better or worse next week. All I've changed so far are the door speakers and it seems to make a huge difference. I can't wait to get my tweeters in there as well as the amp and new sub.
I'm glad you were able to fit them. Do you by any chance remember how much clearance you had between the speaker face/tweeter and door panel grille? I'm asking as Crutchfield has some amazing deals on Infinity Kappa 63XF but their mounting height is 0.116" more than the JL Audio C1-650x (less than 1/8" difference). Thanks!
2019 F250 lariat 6.2 aftermarket audio system issues
Hey everyone I'm in a bit of a situation I cannot seem to figure out and was told I needed to be in audio so here it is. I have a 2019 F250 4x4 lariat 6.2 gas burner. A few months back I upgraded to an aftermarket stereo and subs. I have a pioneer nex4500 head unit, 2 skar 12s pushing 3500 watts and a skar 3500 watt amp. I ran larger power wire and also bout a larger alternator. I believe the alternator was double the factory output but not completely sure. So last week I begin to start seeing lag in cranking either by key or by starting on the fob. Then going down the road it's almost like the truck is load shedding away from the amp because the amp will sound like it's turning down while listening. I tried to use for scan to turn off BCM and load shedding just to see if that was the culprit but I can't even reset the days on my battery for some reason. At this point I was left with what feels like a half dead battery and something has happened and I'm getting a loud deep thump in my intake every few seconds and the truck will not crank on the 1st try but will fire 100% of the time the second pull. I can take this same system and put it in my GMC 2500 and it's so loud you can't stand to stay in the truck and will play for hours without a battery drain while moving. Any ideas? 0 gauge grounds are good going to amp and battery, I ran straight to the chassis and welded studs. I'm at 0 gauge wire from top of battery to amp and 0 gauge from alternator . Voltmeter shows 14.4 running and while driving and playing music fluctuating from that 14.4 anywhere down to 11 then 9 then 13. It's everywhere on the meter then the amp will shut down due to protection mode. I'm running 2 optima redtops one under hood and one behind crew cab seats. I had a capacitor but it seemed to hinder the amp.draw rather than help.im on my last straw with it. Any help would be great timing
Without putting a meter on it I'd look at the alternator. Sounds like it isn't actually charging. You need an ammeter to be sure, an alternator can make voltage and not flow any current. But the voltage drop you are seeing could come from the alternator not putting out enough current. Since volts times amps equals watts (V*A=W or A=W/V), you need a lot of current flow. You might try using a second battery with an isolator just for the sound system.
I'm glad you said that. I am currently running 2 optima redtop batteries with one of those just supplying the amp and sub with the isolator under the hood isolating the sound system from the main draw of the truck. I have taken the capacitor off because #1 it wasn't quite big enough for this system and I never saw any significant change with or without. Now when talking about the alternator, I bought a 300amp and it recommended a 4 gauge wire which I did a 0 gauge all the way back to the amp and battery. If 4 gauge was good then 0 gauge had to be best. Would I need to be checking the alternator while the system was wide open or what is the procedure of doing this correctly?
This might help a diagnosis also but in the BMS it says that it can turn components off and shed to other components if needed. When I park my truck and turn the key to the off position most Ford vehicles keep your courtesy lights and things on for a certain time. Well my whole truck shuts down like it goes into a deep sleep. Only when I either press my fob or turn my key back on will the truck wake back up. You can open and shut doors all day long in the dark if you want
This might help a diagnosis also but in the BMS it says that it can turn components off and shed to other components if needed. When I park my truck and turn the key to the off position most Ford vehicles keep your courtesy lights and things on for a certain time. Well my whole truck shuts down like it goes into a deep sleep. Only when I either press my fob or turn my key back on will the truck wake back up. You can open and shut doors all day long in the dark if you want
Do you have an inductive sensing ring around one of your battery cables? It's the stock sensor that goes with the BMS system.
You can check the alternator output with the sound system at different levels. Try the volume level you normally use since that is what your alternator is normally trying to keep up with.
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