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1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 03:28 PM
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Steering Stress

Hey, I have a 1979 F-150 4x4 with power steering and 36” tall iroks on steel bead locks. Each tire weighs 110 lb and the stress of running those tires is starting to show on the truck. Pretty significant frame damage due to the steering box and fatigue over the years. I’ve been doing some research and it seems pretty common for the dentside frames to crack near the steer box.

I fixed the cracks but wondering if anyone knows of a hydraulic ram steering setup for these units to take some of the stress off the frame? I’d hate to have the same issue twice. Maybe someone has some ideas on strengthening this area?




Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 05:33 PM
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Wow that is bad. I am sure some one has or makes a repair plate for that. Or you can make a overlay (for both sides). You have to get inside the frame rail and replace the crush prevention sleeves that the bolts go thru also. AFAIK adding "hydraulic assist steering" or "full hydro", that neither is really going to be DOT legal. Kind of like true bead locks, only 3 company make true DOT street legal bead locks. Just saying.

You can Google Redneck Ram or PSC (Performance Steering Components) and get some kits that you add on easy enough. You can get the steering box tapped for the 2 lines or do it yourself via Google U tube school. Or go full Hydro steering and go from there.

If you do go hydro assist you should look into doing a Saginaw p/s pump modification. WAY better p/s pump.

https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/



 
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Old Jan 12, 2022 | 11:50 PM
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X2 on putting a plate/overlay there, I'm surprised yours didn't already. Seemed pretty common for plates to get welded on there to reinforce the frame.. maybe even factory in some cases. My truck which I've owned for 10 years had it already done.

X2 on the saginaw swap as well. $ and effort well spent.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 01:31 AM
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That frames not fixed plate the inside and out. Id also possibly cut out bolt sleeves and reinstall thick wall pipe or Dom bolt sleeves.

Quite a few steering assist kits from redkneck, psc, and others

36" tires means you likly or I hopefully you have crossover steering. Now im assuming stock steering, a well set up crossover steering with good angles will steer 36"s pretty well. Stock steering on a lifted truck wont. Hell stock steering sucks with 25" tires.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by kegger66
X2 on putting a plate/overlay there, I'm surprised yours didn't already. Seemed pretty common for plates to get welded on there to reinforce the frame.. maybe even factory in some cases. My truck which I've owned for 10 years had it already done.

X2 on the saginaw swap as well. $ and effort well spent.
Do you have any picture of the bracing?
 
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Wow that is bad. I am sure some one has or makes a repair plate for that. Or you can make a overlay (for both sides). You have to get inside the frame rail and replace the crush prevention sleeves that the bolts go thru also. AFAIK adding "hydraulic assist steering" or "full hydro", that neither is really going to be DOT legal. Kind of like true bead locks, only 3 company make true DOT street legal bead locks. Just saying.

You can Google Redneck Ram or PSC (Performance Steering Components) and get some kits that you add on easy enough. You can get the steering box tapped for the 2 lines or do it yourself via Google U tube school. Or go full Hydro steering and go from there.

If you do go hydro assist you should look into doing a Saginaw p/s pump modification. WAY better p/s pump.

https://www.westtexasoffroad.com/

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/
Any pictures of bracing? There’s no access to the back side of the frame, it’s boxed in and connects up to the engine crossmember.
 
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Old Jan 13, 2022 | 05:54 PM
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You need to put a plate on either side. Drill the plates to accept nice steel tube for the bolts, and weld the tubes to the frame on each side. The plate on the inside has to be counter sunk enough so that the tubes can stick through it and be welded. The tubes on the inside need to be cut flush with the pre existing frame so the box sits where it did before the work, and they have to aligned to the mounting holes in the steering box. It's a bit of work, but you'll be happy you did it. The pics are of a 2x frame and box, but you get the idea.

Attachment 278840

Attachment 278841

Attachment 278842

Attachment 278843

Attachment 278844

Keep vertical welds to a minimum as not to weaken the frame. Don't slap a plate right over the exist frame on the inside of frame. That will move the box over. That side needs to be counter-sunk toward the outside. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2022 | 01:27 PM
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