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Late spring last year funds allowed me to drop significant disposable (for me) coin on a Stinger ECU.
Like happens a lot lately, Life got in the way & installation was put off till Nov.
So, here is the status as of now. I have about 175 miles actual drive time so far & 46 hours on the unit clock.
Bottom line, never ran better. Power on tap, up, Idle, never smoother. Top end, increased. Throttle response increased, particularly at low speeds during in-town driving.
Base trans tune has tamed the Trans-go shift kit tremendously that has always shifted hard & at strange rates at seemingly random load levels since it's rebuild & upgrade.
Few months back, dynoed the MAF conversion to 210-212 hp at wheels over the stock SD dyno from 2017 that put down 192.
Gotta' save up another $90-120 for a session when I get happy with my tunes & can lock it in 3rd & lock the convertor for a best case pull.
The logging software is amazing for someone who's never played with such. I did a zero to top end run to create a base line log before Christmas.
0-60 was 8.87 seconds & TE was 96.0 @ 30.6 before I ran out of flat interstate & dropped down & hit OD for 87 cruise.
Will be dropping some more notes on the install & tuning, along with questions for actual users of pimp,
To that end, if you are running pimp, whether EFI only or with the xshift (that is the important part for me now), either AODE or like me E4, please post up your application.
I know a couple of ya'll who are, but it'd help me kind'a keep everybody straight if you post up
Happy to see you created a post on your Pimpxshift and are happy with its performance. I've been following your other threads on the Stinger forum. How did tuning of the transmission go for you? I'm still using the tranny base tune on mine. I like the way it shifts so much I haven't bothered trying to improve it.
My application: 1994 F-150, 351w, 4x4, 4R70W. Engine has the Comp Cam 35-349-8 camshaft w/ 1.7 rockers, AFR 165 heads, long tube headers.
Not dumb question. I wanted to keep it to begin with & change later, but was pretty much shamed into going to SD since it's considered waste of time running MAF & could tell I wouldn't get much help if I had issues trying to run it.
And issues I had enough in the first place, anyway. Some of my own creation & others that were just there to begin with.
Adam I haven't had a chance to plug in the shift curve values that I THINK will cure the 3-OD cycling that happens at the 29mph up-shift & load as well as get it back to high 40s of stock engagement & test drive.
What constant speed does yours go into OD at?
Here's what I did for my air box & ducting going SD, & no that's not a meter in the tract:
Here's what I did for my air box & ducting going SD, & no that's not a meter in the tract:
So you set the shift point for OD and the system doesn’t account for load/ throttle position air other variables and change the shift point accordingly?
I have a couple SD intakes with air boxes if you wanted to go back to the old style.
Not dumb question. I wanted to keep it to begin with & change later, but was pretty much shamed into going to SD since it's considered waste of time running MAF & could tell I wouldn't get much help if I had issues trying to run it.
And issues I had enough in the first place, anyway. Some of my own creation & others that were just there to begin with.
Adam I haven't had a chance to plug in the shift curve values that I THINK will cure the 3-OD cycling that happens at the 29mph up-shift & load as well as get it back to high 40s of stock engagement & test drive.
What constant speed does yours go into OD at?
Here's what I did for my air box & ducting going SD, & no that's not a meter in the tract:
Lower than yours. Mine will shift into OD around 40-45 MPH normally, but of course its load dependent. I would like to get that even higher, upper 40’s would be about perfect. The Ford factory ECU with both the 302 and swapped 351w was lower, around 35-40 MPH. This is with the AODE/4R70W. Your E4OD was closer to 50 MPH with the stock computer?
I'm pretty sure it's never been lower than 48-51 depending grade/load stock. I've got a grade in my town that traffic+speed will set it hunting consistently now.
So you still have 19# in it, and you think your over 300 at crank?
FYI, My still stock PCM, is 43-47mph, with punisher valve body.
I wish I knew more about tuning, I 'd cut more fire wood this year.
Gotta' save up another $90-120 for a session when I get happy with my tunes & can lock it in 3rd & lock the convertor for a best case pull.
Why can't you log HP and TQ?
You should be able to log TQ.
No need to go to a dyno when you should be able to program your tuner to log HP/TQ.
How does Tuner Studio know what your base tables are for Torque vs Load/Speed, and MBT spark?
Those would be very important in determining what the EPC should be for shifting.
You find your tans is now way smoother, probably because your tune for the trans is completely off.
dynoed the MAF conversion to 210-212 hp at wheels over the stock SD dyno from 2017 that put down 192.
You gained 20HP by tuning your engine.
It isn't the swap to MAF that gave you 20HP, it is the tune of the MAF system that got the increases.
If you actually flowed the air tubes of SD vs MAF, you probably would see that the MAF is actually a restriction in air tubes.
The real comparison would be tuning your MAF setup, get HP/TQ. Then tune your SD setup, get HP/TQ.
I would assume if tuned correctly, and zero mechanical changes, the HP/TQ would be same, regardless of SD vs MAF.
Transmission Center probably set the valve body up a hair too harsh. When I was young I had to go back into the VB to make the shift quality softer due to excess hole sizes and springs.
Did they do the HD2 or the more basic SK? Past experience for me shows the HD2 shifts different.
You can. I just haven't graphed the "channels" & looked at highest readings.
Putting it on a dyno is the difference between what the wheels physically are recorded doing verses what the ECU calculates & displays what is being done.
Plus, there is a safety factor. All the pulls done previously have shown top end speeds of well over 120.
Originally Posted by wwhite
How does Tuner Studio know what your base tables are for Torque vs Load/Speed, and MBT spark?
Those would be very important in determining what the EPC should be for shifting.
It knows what is programed for a base trans tune & I'm trying to learn what changes to EPC "curves" do to the shift characteristics.
Originally Posted by wwhite
You find your tans is now way smoother, probably because your tune for the trans is completely off.
No, it's not completely off. The physical "tune" of the valve body is set to give highest pressure & fastest shifting all the time.
The original ECU does not make adjustments & cannot natively be changed. Trans tuneability is my primary reason for the upgrade.
Originally Posted by wwhite
You gained 20HP by tuning your engine.
It isn't the swap to MAF that gave you 20HP, it is the tune of the MAF system that got the increases.
Ummm...?... Nothing ever was tuned with the stock systems. They were doing the best they could with their original tunes.
Originally Posted by wwhite
If you actually flowed the air tubes of SD vs MAF, you probably would see that the MAF is actually a restriction in air tubes.
The MAF meter has been a known restriction in EFI for a long time. In my case, the Y probably is too. I will modify the filter/ducting in the future
Originally Posted by wwhite
The real comparison would be tuning your MAF setup, get HP/TQ. Then tune your SD setup, get HP/TQ.
I would assume if tuned correctly, and zero mechanical changes, the HP/TQ would be same, regardless of SD vs MAF.
On this harness, all MAF wiring is intact. I can change it back for testing later as experience grows/warrants.
Transmission Center probably set the valve body up a hair too harsh. When I was young I had to go back into the VB to make the shift quality softer due to excess hole sizes and springs.
Did they do the HD2 or the more basic SK? Past experience for me shows the HD2 shifts different.
Don't know, I'll have to dig out the file & look & see if it's called out on invoice.
So you still have 19# in it, and you think your over 300 at crank?
FYI, My still stock PCM, is 43-47mph, with punisher valve body.
I wish I knew more about tuning, I 'd cut more fire wood this year.
Still 19s, new set in September.
When I did the first dyno, I did a chart/calculations based on different percentages that the E4 was "eating" from 10 to 35% & they all pretty much came out as over 300hp
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