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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 10:22 AM
  #31  
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Glad to hear this!! My wife figures if I don't have to make one extra trip for parts that I probably didn't do it right. LOL
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 03:16 PM
  #32  
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Brady glad you got it, and thanks for reporting back.

Picky, im an Olathe guy. Born and raised. In fact im still here. I always tell people kc as noone recognizes Olathe.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 06:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by BradyT88
​​​​​​​ GPR in: 11.15V
​​​​​​​ GPR out: 11.10V
That voltage drop is much better.

Your static voltage is still a little low, might be enough to slow the starter down enough to cause those initial romps.
I'm sure some 5w40 when the climate calls for it will smooth it the rest of the way out.

Congrats!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 06:59 PM
  #34  
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Brady not sure if it was mentioned before in the thread.

That wait to start only lights off for 15 seconds. Good practice on super cold start to wait 2 mins total.

Watch the clock or listen for the GPR to go off. Also watch your voltage jumps right back to 12+ when GPR turns off.

Waiting the extra 2 mins gives the starter full batt voltage also to do it's job better.

Glad you have it going your way.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 07:01 PM
  #35  
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Awesome, small world!
 
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Old Jan 22, 2022 | 09:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Picky1962
Glad to hear this!! My wife figures if I don't have to make one extra trip for parts that I probably didn't do it right. LOL

I usually figure 3 trips. Less now as I get older and have a bigger pile of crap to rummage thru....
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 10:24 AM
  #37  
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 11:30 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by petrokiller
Brady not sure if it was mentioned before in the thread.

That wait to start only lights off for 15 seconds. Good practice on super cold start to wait 2 mins total.

Watch the clock or listen for the GPR to go off. Also watch your voltage jumps right back to 12+ when GPR turns off.

Waiting the extra 2 mins gives the starter full batt voltage also to do it's job better.

Glad you have it going your way.
In the video in my first post I cycled the glow plugs twice, as in waiting the 2-3 minutes for the voltage to jump up indicating the glow plugs turned off. When they turned off the 2nd time I cycled the key again and then tried starting it after the wait to start light. I've had better luck with trying to start it while the glow plugs are on rather than with the extra voltage of them being off. My assumption is that when they are off the cold air being sucked in while trying to start the engine is cooling the cylinder back down rapidly.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 12:52 PM
  #39  
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What was the temp at that start in the video?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ESwift
What was the temp at that start in the video?
17*F, apparently I need to add more characters to let me post it.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 01:01 PM
  #41  
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This was yesterday. It was like -10 to -14 out when I started it. It had been -21. Not plugged in all night. I had to shut it back down and add some diesel 911 as fuel gelled and I lost much if my fuel pressure
this is with new injectors, glow plugs and relay, and newer batteries. Dont know if the comparison helps you
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 01:22 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BradyT88
... I've had better luck with trying to start it while the glow plugs are on rather than with the extra voltage of them being off. My assumption is that when they are off the cold air being sucked in while trying to start the engine is cooling the cylinder back down rapidly.
I agree with you - sounds reasonable to me. You want the glow plugs on during cranking. No need to cycle glow plugs 2 minutes in cold weather. That glow plug tip is not adding much heat to the cylinder walls, and like you said, that hot air around the glow plug is gone in one revolution of the crank, and cold air is rushing in. It's the tip that is doing the work of igniting the atomized fuel - just need a few seconds to get it hot enough to do that, and the WTS light tells us when that is.

Excerpt from the owners manual on cold start procedure.


Those of you that have better luck with long GP cycles - I'm curious why that is. Certainly keep doing that if it works for you, I just do not understand why it would help.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 01:33 PM
  #43  
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I have found that anything more then one full cycle does minimal help, maybe a little, but 45 seconds a single time and it did nearly as well as the 2 full 2 min cycles.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 01:44 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by BWST
I agree with you - sounds reasonable to me. You want the glow plugs on during cranking. No need to cycle glow plugs 2 minutes in cold weather. That glow plug tip is not adding much heat to the cylinder walls, and like you said, that hot air around the glow plug is gone in one revolution of the crank, and cold air is rushing in. It's the tip that is doing the work of igniting the atomized fuel - just need a few seconds to get it hot enough to do that, and the WTS light tells us when that is.

Excerpt from the owners manual on cold start procedure.

Those of you that have better luck with long GP cycles - I'm curious why that is. Certainly keep doing that if it works for you, I just do not understand why it would help.
Replacing the failing GPR seems to have fixed the problem of having to cycle the glow plugs multiple times.
Originally Posted by ESwift
I have found that anything more then one full cycle does minimal help, maybe a little, but 45 seconds a single time and it did nearly as well as the 2 full 2 min cycles.
I've had better luck with doing 2 or 3 full cycles vs just 1, but again that appears to be due to my GPR starting to fail.

Were you applying throttle during that start or starting in a high idle tune? Mine doesn't Rev that high to start.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2022 | 02:14 PM
  #45  
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I was not touching throttle. That was it doing its own thing. I can try a different tune from another tuner to see if it does the same thing
 
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