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Your static voltage is still a little low, might be enough to slow the starter down enough to cause those initial romps.
I'm sure some 5w40 when the climate calls for it will smooth it the rest of the way out.
Brady not sure if it was mentioned before in the thread.
That wait to start only lights off for 15 seconds. Good practice on super cold start to wait 2 mins total.
Watch the clock or listen for the GPR to go off. Also watch your voltage jumps right back to 12+ when GPR turns off.
Waiting the extra 2 mins gives the starter full batt voltage also to do it's job better.
Glad you have it going your way.
In the video in my first post I cycled the glow plugs twice, as in waiting the 2-3 minutes for the voltage to jump up indicating the glow plugs turned off. When they turned off the 2nd time I cycled the key again and then tried starting it after the wait to start light. I've had better luck with trying to start it while the glow plugs are on rather than with the extra voltage of them being off. My assumption is that when they are off the cold air being sucked in while trying to start the engine is cooling the cylinder back down rapidly.
This was yesterday. It was like -10 to -14 out when I started it. It had been -21. Not plugged in all night. I had to shut it back down and add some diesel 911 as fuel gelled and I lost much if my fuel pressure
this is with new injectors, glow plugs and relay, and newer batteries. Dont know if the comparison helps you
... I've had better luck with trying to start it while the glow plugs are on rather than with the extra voltage of them being off. My assumption is that when they are off the cold air being sucked in while trying to start the engine is cooling the cylinder back down rapidly.
I agree with you - sounds reasonable to me. You want the glow plugs on during cranking. No need to cycle glow plugs 2 minutes in cold weather. That glow plug tip is not adding much heat to the cylinder walls, and like you said, that hot air around the glow plug is gone in one revolution of the crank, and cold air is rushing in. It's the tip that is doing the work of igniting the atomized fuel - just need a few seconds to get it hot enough to do that, and the WTS light tells us when that is.
Excerpt from the owners manual on cold start procedure.
Those of you that have better luck with long GP cycles - I'm curious why that is. Certainly keep doing that if it works for you, I just do not understand why it would help.
I have found that anything more then one full cycle does minimal help, maybe a little, but 45 seconds a single time and it did nearly as well as the 2 full 2 min cycles.
I agree with you - sounds reasonable to me. You want the glow plugs on during cranking. No need to cycle glow plugs 2 minutes in cold weather. That glow plug tip is not adding much heat to the cylinder walls, and like you said, that hot air around the glow plug is gone in one revolution of the crank, and cold air is rushing in. It's the tip that is doing the work of igniting the atomized fuel - just need a few seconds to get it hot enough to do that, and the WTS light tells us when that is.
Excerpt from the owners manual on cold start procedure.
Those of you that have better luck with long GP cycles - I'm curious why that is. Certainly keep doing that if it works for you, I just do not understand why it would help.
Replacing the failing GPR seems to have fixed the problem of having to cycle the glow plugs multiple times.
Originally Posted by ESwift
I have found that anything more then one full cycle does minimal help, maybe a little, but 45 seconds a single time and it did nearly as well as the 2 full 2 min cycles.
I've had better luck with doing 2 or 3 full cycles vs just 1, but again that appears to be due to my GPR starting to fail.
Were you applying throttle during that start or starting in a high idle tune? Mine doesn't Rev that high to start.