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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 09:03 PM
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Holly 4bbl problem

My 1968 N750 with a 361 and Holly 4bbl (not originally equipped with that carb, as the 4bbl was only on the 391). Anyway, I did rebuild the carb at one point, and it seemed to be in good shape but with a bit more clearance throttle shaft-wise than I would have liked, and maybe that is my problem. The throttle does not return well to idle and wants to drop the idle speed to 1000 rpm rather than 550 or so. As soon as the engine is shut off the throttle comes back against the stop. I have a stiff return spring on it which helps, but not enough. If I remember correctly, I did install an O ring on the shaft placed against the base to limit air admittance at that point, but that did not seem to help much if any.
All suggestions appreciated!

Tom
 

Last edited by Tomc750; Dec 22, 2021 at 09:04 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 09:14 PM
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So when the engine is running, you can't make the throttle go back against the stop?

Is there a governor under that carb? What kind of vacuum hoses are running in/out?

Have you gone through the linkage from the pad on the pedal to the carb? Lots of places for things to bind up.

Is the shaft binding in the carb body due to the vacuum against it at idle?
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomc750
My 1968 N750 with a 361 and Holly 4bbl (not originally equipped with that carb, as the 4bbl was only on the 391). Anyway, I did rebuild the carb at one point, and it seemed to be in good shape but with a bit more clearance throttle shaft-wise than I would have liked, and maybe that is my problem. The throttle does not return well to idle and wants to drop the idle speed to 1000 rpm rather than 550 or so. As soon as the engine is shut off the throttle comes back against the stop. I have a stiff return spring on it which helps, but not enough. If I remember correctly, I did install an O ring on the shaft placed against the base to limit air admittance at that point, but that did not seem to help much if any.
All suggestions appreciated!

Tom
Your throttle plates might need to be realigned. Take the throttle plate off of the carburetor, back off the curb idle screw and then loosen the screws that hold the throttle plates, just crack them loose. Then gently tap on them while you hold the throttle plate up to the light, you'll be able to see them get centered in the bores, when they're good tighten up the screws. Now give it a try and see if it's better. If not the throttle shaft might have to be rebushed which isn't a big deal for most carburetor shops.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 85e150
So when the engine is running, you can't make the throttle go back against the stop?

Is there a governor under that carb? What kind of vacuum hoses are running in/out?

Have you gone through the linkage from the pad on the pedal to the carb? Lots of places for things to bind up.

Is the shaft binding in the carb body due to the vacuum against it at idle?
I would say the latter. No governor. When running I can pull up on the pedal and make it come to the stop. Linkage is free and not binding. Thanks for the input.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2021 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveMcLain
Your throttle plates might need to be realigned. Take the throttle plate off of the carburetor, back off the curb idle screw and then loosen the screws that hold the throttle plates, just crack them loose. Then gently tap on them while you hold the throttle plate up to the light, you'll be able to see them get centered in the bores, when they're good tighten up the screws. Now give it a try and see if it's better. If not the throttle shaft might have to be rebushed which isn't a big deal for most carburetor shops.
The throttle plates are aligned perfectly. I have always been **** about that and used light as you suggest. I guess I'll have to hunt down a carb shop somewhere. Probably have so send it somewhere. Thanks for the input, I'm sure you are on the right track.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2021 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Tomc750
The throttle plates are aligned perfectly. I have always been **** about that and used light as you suggest. I guess I'll have to hunt down a carb shop somewhere. Probably have so send it somewhere. Thanks for the input, I'm sure you are on the right track.
Call Bob Oliver at Competition Carburetion in Sun Valley NV. 775-331-5609
 
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Old Dec 26, 2021 | 10:56 AM
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High idle is typically a vacuum leak --- I'd run a comprehensive vacuum inspection / diagnostic (since it's pulling back on shut down), then go thru the idle circuits one more time, recheck primary and secondary fuel bowls / levels (via the sight plugs), plus I'd also equip it with a Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge w/O2 sensor.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2021 | 10:49 PM
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Although the 361FT normally used a 2 bbl Holley the later L series came both ways
I have a cousin with a 72 LN700 that was 361 with 4 bbl Holley

If you can pull up on the pedal and slow the engine down you have a linkage issue
Will it idle down with the linkage disconnected
 
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Old Dec 31, 2021 | 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Destroked 450
Will it idle down with the linkage disconnected
What he said.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2021 | 08:34 PM
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From: Greeneville TN USA
Originally Posted by Destroked 450
Although the 361FT normally used a 2 bbl Holley the later L series came both ways
I have a cousin with a 72 LN700 that was 361 with 4 bbl Holley

If you can pull up on the pedal and slow the engine down you have a linkage issue
Will it idle down with the linkage disconnected
There is no linkage issue, it will not idle down with linkage disconnected. To be clear, with linkage disconnected, throttle is stiff, but when shut off stiffness goes away, so previous comments about shaft clearance I believe is the culprit.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2021 | 08:41 PM
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From: Greeneville TN USA
Originally Posted by F350 1990
High idle is typically a vacuum leak --- I'd run a comprehensive vacuum inspection / diagnostic (since it's pulling back on shut down), then go thru the idle circuits one more time, recheck primary and secondary fuel bowls / levels (via the sight plugs), plus I'd also equip it with a Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge w/O2 sensor.
Except for last item, been there, done that. Also, a vacuum leak would cause a fast idle with linkage connected or not and with throttle against stop. Source for Air/Fuel Gauge? By the way, it does run great. Thanks for the ideas.
 
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