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The only "good" conversion I have ever seen was using a 99-04 Superduty sterling 10.5.
If memory serves me correctly
They machined out the hub to the 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern. Then go larger shank studs to fill the holes,
I forget what they did for rotors, I think they used van rotors https://www.powerstrokenation.com/th...on-6-5.115781/
The only "good" conversion I have ever seen was using a 99-04 Superduty sterling 10.5.
If memory serves me correctly
They machined out the hub to the 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern. Then go larger shank studs to fill the holes,
I forget what they did for rotors, they may have just made the holes larger
Econoline E250 and E350 rear rotors are identical to Superduty SRW rotors in every way except the bolt pattern. That's what I'd use, reaming the holes as needed to fit the larger studs.
Exactly! Brad was talking about taking one of those axles and putting it under a truck that originally had a drum-brake Sterling. But because the bolt pattern of the Superduty ain't the same as the older trucks, some machining is required.
your tone sounds upset...I Dont know how to answer your question. I only doubt everything and **** everything up but I dont know where I was making a point.. Im... sorry..?But I feel bad because I probably made you feel I was trying to say you were wrong...
for reference he has a 2001 cab and chassis f350 that was "incomplete vehicle by ford" and either had 10 lugs and the kit used to make it a Dually (fake dually) changed it to 8 lug or if the outer wheel somehow uses 8 while the inside is 10. the front axle is 10. I was just contributing.. because I personally was crawled under it, saw that it had calipers and recognized the axle based on the
this isnt his im just saying it was somewhat like that but the outer wheels are 8 lug and it had an
and I guess its drum in hat.
I have never had a problem stopping with properly maintained rear drums, is it really worth all the hair pulling and chin-scratching for marginally improved stopping?
Personally I would choose working parking brake….back to drums or fit the super duty axle.
A couple years back I pit a dually dana 70 from a shuttle bus in a 94 f350 dually. I only did it because I needed the sterling for my pulling truck. I swapped in the bigger mastrr cylinder and got the e brakes to work. Really no difference was felt with the disk brakes but it pulled better since the bus had 4:88's.
I have an 06 E150 w/factory rear disc. Also a 95 with rear drums.
Personally never been a fan of rear disc on a truck/towing vehicle for exactly the parking brake issue OP is experiencing. One exception - class 8 trucks air disc/spring brake setups seem to hold as well as drums.
Discs are way easier maintenance wise, and likely stop better. But I want a strong dependable parking brake and haven't found that yet in rear disc - at least comparable to drums. YMMV.
Discs are way easier maintenance wise, and likely stop better. But I want a strong dependable parking brake and haven't found that yet in rear disc - at least comparable to drums. YMMV.
The only parking brake that I've found works well with discs is the F-Superduty driveline brake. If you got a 2wd truck that's easy enough to install as it uses the standard Ford transfer case mounting setup - so you swap the 2wd trans out for a 4x4 version and Bob's your uncle. But with a 4x4 truck, the only way to do it is to use some custom adapter in place of the t-case's tailshsft housing - and I'm not aware of anyone making that, but I'm all ears if someone knows anything?
reference my post #24. There are some making transfer face mounted brakes, but i didnt quite see anything for a BW1356 (which is what i assume he has, but then again we dont know if its 2 or 4wd yet).
Oh damn that poor truck, You cant be seen driving around with that bad tailgate. ill take it off your hands,hell id come get it!
donations accepted
Haha that particular truck is long gone. Just unfortunate because it was all so preventable and I ruined a perfect OEM tailgate and bumper because I didn’t fix the brakes.
After overhauling the rear drums on the 95 F250 it stops great and the parking brake lever snaps back with great authority.
the ease of maintenance is great until you forget Eldorado you’re buying pads for.
Rear drums last a long time between service, most trucks I work on have the original rear shoes or shoes that are decades old so I wouldn’t worry too much.
Haha that particular truck is long gone. Just unfortunate because it was all so preventable and I ruined a perfect OEM tailgate and bumper because I didn’t fix the brakes.
After overhauling the rear drums on the 95 F250 it stops great and the parking brake lever snaps back with great authority.
the ease of maintenance is great until you forget Eldorado you’re buying pads for.
Rear drums last a long time between service, most trucks I work on have the original rear shoes or shoes that are decades old so I wouldn’t worry too much.
I cant defend or accept F150 rear drums. my god why couldnt they just used GMs drum brake design there. the f250 is simpler than that i think
I cant defend or accept F150 rear drums. my god why couldnt they just used GMs drum brake design there. the f250 is simpler than that i think
I forgot the 1/2 ton brakes were like that. Been a while. Still you can improve them using F350 wheel cylinders and the best shoes + rotors available.
remember, the front brakes still responsible for 70%+ of the stopping, whatever gains come with rear discs would be marginal. Granted everything is maintained—of course new discs stop better than worn out drums.
I forgot the 1/2 ton brakes were like that. Been a while. Still you can improve them using F350 wheel cylinders and the best shoes + rotors available.
remember, the front brakes still responsible for 70%+ of the stopping, whatever gains come with rear discs would be marginal. Granted everything is maintained—of course new discs stop better than worn out drums.
My axle is ****ed in a lot of ways
I have a bent leaf spring and it dog tracks, that is bound to put some weird loads on the pinion bearing and wear it
then i have 3.08 open. 8.8 :|
then the backing plates are worn bad on the rub nubs
then the brake line to one side seeps slowly
The brakes need to be redone with all new everything even tho i put new stuff on. the cables also arent alive. but I didnt fix that because of the fact its like pissing in the wind at that point
also RABS rusty and crusty periodic issues
So I figured since it needs just about everything literally in due time i will replace
The gears look good inside tho, the pie tin covering it is ford blue and doesnt leak with my homeade gasket, the fluid is good, and its pretty but thats all its got going for it
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