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i have never used a parking brake, so i can't tell you how they work, or don't.
manual trans gets put in get with front wheels turned in, and a chock under the back wheel.
auto trans in park with front wheels turned in and the chock under back wheel
60s. I believe its a 68 or 69 I cant recall what the thread over on the 67-72 forum said it likely was Not sure if this means much Small brakes and hub, its semi float 5x5.5 Got nice spring set. its a trailer atm. Lol other view
I would make the f150 8 lug if it meant a cheap axle swap. I would even have a 8 lug rear and 5 lug front and not be ashamed
Seen an El Camino like that 😂 May have even been involved in the creation of it 😇 And yeah that's exactly how it came to be, cheapest axle that could take the power was from a truck and the owner cared not about weight, so out came the welders and black magic happened 😁
oh ok. i miss read it as a 60 F150. yes, you are correct. 68 or 69 would be a 150
Nope. Bumpsides (1967-1972) were F100, F250, F350. The F150 didn't come around until 1975 (dentside), as a way around smog requirements on a light pickup.
Nope. Bumpsides (1967-1972) were F100, F250, F350. The F150 didn't come around until 1975 (dentside), as a way around smog requirements on a light pickup.
all I know is i have a hood or two that say F100 and I thought it said f150 but maybe both say f100 There is the remains of it in 3 spots if you want to ID it from a distance The other same generation truck that was in our family was an F100 which had a lot of cool things like my GMCs west coast mirrors(camper special?), auxillary fuel tank(I have the bed as a trailer like the one you saw before lol) 70% chance this is a "F100" gas tank to match. 30% chance its a 72 and back GM truck of the same vintage that happened to be red.
Couple options that come to mind:
1. If 2wd, you can look into parking brake tail housings. My ZF5 came with a parking brake drum tailhousing that supposedly was situated on some heavy duty applications. Bolts to the rear of a 4x4 style ZF. Like this: https://www.allstategear.com/ZF-Park...-p/zfbd-r1.htm
I suppose this would likely work with some sort of divorced transfer case...
2. If 4wd, you can look into a similar style to #1, but made to fit on the rear of the transfer case. At a minimum, i think youd have to do away with any slip yoke style driveshaft, so this one might be the worst option as far as complexity. Anywho, heres a kit for the NP205: https://www.tsmmfg.net/np205-transfe...ing-brake.html
3. If the brakes work well enough hydraulically, have you thought about using a line lock style valve? Like this:
"To set the lock, step on the brakes, push the lock **** down, and take your foot off the brake. To release the lock, step on the brake again slightly harder than before and it will release automatically." Only bummer is having to run lines into the cab, but should be pretty easy to do. I envision tucking it at the bottom of the b-pillar. Should be able to reach it with the door closed. I favor this option as far as simplicity (the rear line runs just below the drivers seat inside the frame C) and solving the problem goes.
Last edited by AHenry014; Dec 28, 2021 at 07:30 AM.
Couple options that come to mind:
1. If 2wd, you can look into parking brake tail housings. My ZF5 came with a parking brake drum tailhousing that supposedly was situated on some heavy duty applications. Bolts to the rear of a 4x4 style ZF. Like this: https://www.allstategear.com/ZF-Park...-p/zfbd-r1.htm
I suppose this would likely work with some sort of divorced transfer case...
2. If 4wd, you can look into a similar style to #1, but made to fit on the rear of the transfer case. At a minimum, i think youd have to do away with any slip yoke style driveshaft, so this one might be the worst option as far as complexity. Anywho, heres a kit for the NP205: https://www.tsmmfg.net/np205-transfe...ing-brake.html
3. If the brakes work well enough hydraulically, have you thought about using a line lock style valve? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Lok-Univ.../dp/B01N9VOQTJ
"To set the lock, step on the brakes, push the lock **** down, and take your foot off the brake. To release the lock, step on the brake again slightly harder than before and it will release automatically." Only bummer is having to run lines into the cab, but should be pretty easy to do. I envision tucking it at the bottom of the b-pillar. Should be able to reach it with the door closed. I favor this option as far as simplicity (the rear line runs just below the drivers seat inside the frame C) and solving the problem goes.
I do not imagine master cylinder, wheel cylinder, and the Kelsey Hayes RABS system. nor anything else in bendix's design would play nicely with a hydraulic hold because those seals, hoses all that arent meant to be under constant force to apply and then fighting nature in a situation like a hill with gravity or a full load of stuff and an incline or winds etc etc....
I realize its not ideal, but wanted to throw it out there as an option. For all intents and purposes, the parking brake should be an entirely separate isolated system. That way, if something in the parking brake system fails, the normal brakes still work, and vis versa. The OP currently has an insufficient parking brake situation. Either he returns it to the factory drums or finds some "help" in other ways. I just listed some ideas that come to mind, but he would of course have to determine if one of them suites his needs or if he's just going to go back to drums. If i were in his shoes and really enjoyed the performance of the discs over the drums, i would likely try the line lock. He's been dealing with a crappy parking brake so far, so the addition of the line lock should help, so long as he's not fully relying on it. Perhaps line lock and the cable actuated parking brakes together would suite his needs.
youre good but I was getting at my 4000 pound car can come to a quick stop from 108mph (relative) from the rear brakes Soley using the parking brake pedal, same general size as the f series has but built nicer, and releases by clicking it after its engaged, and also auto adjusts when using it, I think there is something not being setup in a way to make it have the right leverage or advantage he needs. Because if it can stop a car moving that fast thats that heavy it should be able to hold a non moving vehicle pretty well even if it weighs what his truck does and the tires are a bit taller and the height is higher. theres a lot of forces at play and i think its a matter of sciencing the **** out of it like the breaking bad meth dealer would say.
haha i gotcha. I would agree that with it correctly adjusted it SHOULD be able to do its job. I took a look at lugnut 4x4's kit and they do state "Our e-brake calipers are unique. While they're based on GM designed JB6 calipers made for the '76-78 Cadillac Eldorado, Lugnut4x4 e-brake calipers feature a much stronger parking brake lever arm that is better suited to heavy-duty applications." Much to my surprise looking at caliper pics on rockauto vs their website, it doesnt appear they make the arm a bunch longer for added leverage. I mean, youve only got so much pedal throw/cable pull to work with. It looks like they just make a beefier arm with bracket to clip the cable into. My guess is that they did this for reduced arm flex and so you can hammer on the parking brake to keep things tight.
My thought that the OP has the cable(s) adjusted way out, assuming the origin position at the start of the lever swing is full "off". I imagine the ebrake pedal hitting full travel in the cab while there is still "throw" left at the calipers. Without getting my hands on it, its hard to say, but curious if some actuation on the calipers via cable tensioning is possible before the caliper starts coming on the ebrake. Kinda like adjusting a drum brake. Adjust out till it drags slightly and youre good.
haha i gotcha. I would agree that with it correctly adjusted it SHOULD be able to do its job. I took a look at lugnut 4x4's kit and they do state "Our e-brake calipers are unique. While they're based on GM designed JB6 calipers made for the '76-78 Cadillac Eldorado, Lugnut4x4 e-brake calipers feature a much stronger parking brake lever arm that is better suited to heavy-duty applications." Much to my surprise looking at caliper pics on rockauto vs their website, it doesnt appear they make the arm a bunch longer for added leverage. I mean, youve only got so much pedal throw/cable pull to work with. It looks like they just make a beefier arm with bracket to clip the cable into. My guess is that they did this for reduced arm flex and so you can hammer on the parking brake to keep things tight.
My thought that the OP has the cable(s) adjusted way out, assuming the origin position at the start of the lever swing is full "off". I imagine the ebrake pedal hitting full travel in the cab while there is still "throw" left at the calipers. Without getting my hands on it, its hard to say, but curious if some actuation on the calipers via cable tensioning is possible before the caliper starts coming on the ebrake. Kinda like adjusting a drum brake. Adjust out till it drags slightly and youre good.
also on the calipers the cable usually has a strong spring that holds it off the lever you need to really get good pliers or a helper or a proper tool(lol) for it, so you can snake the little end piece onto the lever and then also place it firmly into the bracket where, once there, it will Force a very linear path for the cable, the spring keeps it straight and from pulling accidentally, and then usually the caliper and pads have to be installed and adjusted with the pedal to seat them, then the parking brake mechanism and equalizer and ends adjustments all get done at that point because the pads ride close to the rear at all times(I think the piston ratchets out like my cars possibly, too) so the piston is more an actuator i guess.. but anyway, a cable that bows out or maybe lie you said at the end of adjustment, he could be pressing the pedal to the floor and then only cracking that lever over barely, so it applies the pads but of course big heavy steel object on wheels and gravity overcome it.
The only "good" conversion I have ever seen was using a 99-04 Superduty sterling 10.5.
If memory serves me correctly
They machined out the hub to the 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern. Then go larger shank studs to fill the holes,
I forget what they did for rotors, I think they used van rotors https://www.powerstrokenation.com/th...on-6-5.115781/
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