RockAuto should start giving me intake gaskets, oil pan gaskets and rear main seals for free.
I have "refreshed" their inventory several times now.

Next weekend I will attack it again with plans of conquering the enemy.



I will prevail.

 

My bad days are usually self inflicted.

 

You sure you didn't or your buddies just didn't shoot a hole clean in that poor truck ? You got this

 

Ready to roll....... back to its parking space.


All cleaned up.


I have soo many parts just waiting to be installed.


I really should be out making more of these.

 

If I was a Doctor, I'd say the oil seals got an allergy.

An allergy to what ?

The new Dodge wheel.

Seeing as you have a nice huge spacious shop to work in, and have friends willing and available to help, consider taking the engine out so that you can have a 100% up close and personal visual of the rear block.

Knowing you, you could remove the engine in a morning, and have it fitted back by supper time !

Happy New Year to you.

 

Another good morning.
Could be the 5th Dodge wheel.

The engine will come back out but not until spring time.
I am going to re-ring it and re-cam it,

I have limited access to the shop. Last time I pulled the engine I hadn't gone back to work yet.
The shop isn't mine, tis a business shop and I am limited to Fri Sat and Sundays.
I leave for work at about 3:45AM, get home around 5:00AM and then sleep until noon.
I work every Fri Sat Sun and every other Thursday. So no real shop time.
Friday was when I replaced the rear mail, got it done before going to work.


I have been using this rear main from Enginetech because I like the silicone side seals.
When I get the rear main cap off there is never any oil getting past the.
I super glue them to the cap and lube them with engine oil when I reinstall the cap.
It was this brand of rear mail sear that detreated for one reason or another.

Every time I have offset them 1/3" like the instruction say one of the seals gets smashed.
I'm sure it would be a lot easier with the engine out and on an engine stand.
I think this is what happened Friday.


Enginetech on the left and Fel-Pro on the right. HUGE difference.
So I order more of each.
I will use the silicone side seals from Enginetech and the main seal from Fel-Pro.

I want to drive it without leaving a trail of oil.

 

Is the super glue compatible with the material the seal is made out of ?

 

It seems to be. I only use it to hold the side seals in while putting the main cap back on.
I don't see anything wrong with them when I take them off to put new ones in.

 

Ah sh$t, now that you mention limited access to the shop, it rings a bell.

Ok, thinking out loud :

Working to strict deadlines is not always helpful, and in your case might be forcing you to rush.

You don't need the truck to be in the shop, only the engine.

So, consider how and when to do that.

Yeah, it might spread over a few weeks, but rather it spread over two weeks, say, and do it right, with 100% visual, easy access, and a full understanding of what is going wrong, than rushing it within a limited time frame.

During that waiting period, the interior can be worked on at leisure. (Or the Dodge rims polished up. )

My 351c also left the factory with nasty 2 piece seals.

I detest 2 piece seals, and let's face it, if we look at any plumbing system, all seals are one piece.

I found out that the 351c (my engine) will take the 351w one piece seal if the block is slightly machined.

Can your 410 be machined to accept a one piece from another engine ?

Hmmm, did the Ford people use super glue when assembling engines ? I think I know the answer.

So my ideas might be utter sh$t, but I find generally that bad ideas, once torn apart, reviewed, changed, etc, etc, lead to good ideas, so hopefully here's a starting point.

If you decide to wait until spring rather, ok, do all the non-engine stuff now rather.

I gotta get me one of those green cups.

 

I love the smell of coffee and a revolver in the mornin.

 

As I recall, it only pees the oil out when running.

The two straight side seals only seal the cap to the block, not against pressure.

Oil fill level is below the crank and the two side seals and crank shaft seal.

There is a sliger and open drain between the rear main bearing and the seal.

I guess there's no way the pan or a pan gasket is hindering the drain back

Many FEs can hold thier oil.

Must be defective seals.


OK, OK, I'll stop.

 

Yep, yep, yep and yep.
The oil drain in the cap is open.
When I take the main cap off you can see that the oil is getting past the main seal.
I had issues installing the stupid nail in the side seals so I went a different route.

Its the seal that is giving me trouble.

I'm looking forward to attracting it again.

It never leaked until I changed the intake manifold.
It was most likely the intake gasket leaking and not the rear min seal.
I messed it up the first time I replaced it, and it probably wasn't the problem.
I'm the problem.

 

Well today went better.






I never had the opportunity to stand the new tires up against the old 7.50x16 tires, like this.
I never really realized just how much bigger they are over the factory tires.


That's a damn good looking tire/wheel combo if you ask me.

 

Nice ! Tall and narrow is best for 4WD if your truck spends most of its' time in the back country, IMHO, unless you're muddin'.

 

Recently I participated in a discussion relating to a hole in a block and it's purpose. It is one of 5 holes under the intake, but it's up higher than the other 4. It is the only way for oil to find it's way down to the distributor gear and timing chain. I suggested the question as to how deep oil was in the valley when running. I think it gets deep enough to use that 5th hole, and that was a M engine, but I suspect the same accumulation occurs in a FE so if oil is running out from under an intake at back, seems it would be more than just a mist in there?