I recently took home a 1975 f100. I wrote on this forum a couple days ago about truck starting great, then not even cranking (but all the power working..radio, ac, etc). I tightened cylinder and it seemed to start great again.

I go out of town a few days, come back, truck starts fine. I drive it to friend's house, now won't start again. I turn ignition all the way - get nothing - and the BRAKE red light lights up when I have key turned all the way. This happened the first time as well.

I take the whole thing apart and notice there's a screw missing to hold the cylinder in place. I find a screw, put it back together, and then it starts great. I take it down the hill and back up again. 20 min later, same issue - no crank no nothing and this time the cylinder is screwed in tight and has nowhere to go. I noticed the red BRAKE light doesn't light up or is a bit spotty if it does when key turned all the way. Is this an old wiring issue potentially? Solenoid? Any ideas?

Taking truck into shop on Tuesday for overall checkup, safety features, etc, but I sure thought I was onto something when I tightened that cylinder!

Thanks

Jake

 

Little update - I did the shift between R and N a few times trick and started up fine again. Will be interested to see what mechanic says Tuesday (if there is any dirt to clean or anything) and let the forum know (but I bet some people on here already know)

 

If the shifting helped it start it sounds like a neutral safety switch. There may be an adjustment on those I can't recall, I haven't had to mess with one yet.
Just from reading on here is all I know about them.

 

You Younguns Gotta be educated in the ways of the 70's Colum shifter . Next time that symptom happens --- with your left arm reach over the wheel and grasp the shifter and pull up/ counterclockwise on the lever whilst turning the key with your right hand. If it starts the your neutral safety switch is out of adjustment or damaged. On some F150's the C-4 tranny equipped models the switch lives at the bottom of the column near the floor and is operated by a lever from the column. on C-6 tranny it is on the side of the tranny, crescent shaped with two slotted attaching screws to adjust. The shifter guides in the lever bucket could also be worn or bushings on the linkage which would also not allow the N/S switch to work right. The brake lamp should fully illuminate when the key goes to start as a "proof" that the lamp is not burned out. If it is dim that indicates a poor connection. You already knew that, pretty sharp guy. The N/S switch is a little delicate and can be off. DO'NT FORGET these years 1966-1979 column shifters had a real problem jumping out of park to reverse in the day. Never leave it in park without the parking brake on and don't trust it running in park . There are hilarious youtube videos of driverless Ford cars and trucks of this vintage doing reverse donuts.

 

X2 on the 75 neutral safety switch is on the steering column under the dash. If you have to wiggle the shift lever then it starts, then sure sounds like the NSS needs adjusted. Be careful the 2 screws that hold the switch on the column tube are very short and can strip the holes VERY easily. I might have even seen a large hose clamp put on the switch (around the column and the L like tab of the switch mount bracket and hdwr) after adjustment to keep the short bolts tight and to help hold the switch in place.

X22 the dash instrument panel red BRAKE light is suppose to come on during initial start up to proof test the light. Just like stated above. And should go out about 8 sec like the seat belt warning light and buzzer (if you have that).