Those values are close, but not quite as close as I'd expect them to be. Just for grins, try that again when the engine is cold and see if they converge.

Assuming those sensors are fine, I'd look elsewhere for your performance problem. First, tell us more about your truck. Miles, mods, (brief) history, etc. Second, since you have Forscan now, log some data for us. There is a *terrific* tool Jeff (BWST) has created to analyze Forscan data linked in the stickies at the top of this forum. The instructions tell you what values to collect.

Lastly, look around the engine bay for an "obvious" source of the problem. (Quoted because these things are only "obvious" after you see them. Don't ask me how I know...) Check where the up-pipes attach to the collector at the back of the turbo. Is there soot there? How about the red line that plugs into the wastegate? Is it unplugged from the wastegate, but not plugged? Use a mirror or feel around on the CAC boots to check for holes or tears. Are the clamps tight? (Not gorilla tight, but snug.) Do you see any unexplained oil on the outside of the tubes? Boost leaks are nearly impossible to find by sight, unless something like what I've described is found. If you want to test for boost leaks, I have a tester I can send you. (I'm not that nice a guy, just so you know. KCTurbos sent it to me, with the expectation that I'd do the same for someone else, and they'd do the same... You get the idea.)

There are folks on here who've forgotten more about these things than I know, and are happy to help. Post up some more info, and you'll get some ideas.

Mark

 

On a cold engine with KOEO (key on engine off), the three sensors should be within .5 PSI of each other. That is MAP, BARO and EBP.

Mark is right that they could be closer, but we generally give .5 as the margin to look there or elsewhere.

 

These were done right when i woke up.

my truck is a 02 CC 4x4 with 185k miles.
4” exhaust, PHP tunes, just under 35” tires (285/75/18). NicMike from the excursion board went over my entire truck two years ago and did the exhaust, and the entire diesel orings replacements in the engine bay. It doesn’t leak a drop. Also all new turbo boots and up pipes.

lt looks like I do have soot on my driver side up pipe on the top side………ewwww that’s annoying.

 

Your observed PIDs noted above look good during the period of observation.

 

Yeah I’m thankful for that.

I def have a leak on my drivers side up pipe. I’ve observed and helped do that replacement before but it is just not something I am up for doing myself.

not sure if I’ll leave it or pick up some OT shifts to pay someone else

 

You mentioned the up-pipes are new. Are they the OEM ones with the donut, or bellowed? The OEM ones will leak, sooner or later. The leak isn't necessarily the root cause of your performance problems, but it's a certain contributor.

Mark

 

they are the bellowed up pipes from Riff Raff. They’re def leaking as I cleaned them a few weeks ago so I could know for sure. Leaking up top by the turbo. However it appears just the drivers side.

I’ll prolly have the one redone at a shop as I have zero desire to get my hands that dirty and spend that much time

 

Be sure you use a new gasket when you do it. Probably just not all the way tight, I had that problem on one of my trucks. Reached up, tighten and haven’t ever had an issue.

 

Hey guys. I am hoping to replace my gaskets on my Dorman bezelled up pipes. What all do I need gasket wise? The baby butt gaskets and donut gaskets? New bolts and nuts? Does that cover it?

I don’t want new pipes as they are only two years old

 

There is no gasket between the manifold and bellowed up pipes. There is no gasket between the collector (baby butt) and the bellowed up pipes. There is no gasket between the collector and turbo.

Donuts or gaskets were sometimes used with the OEM style up-pipes as a way to put off a repair or a cheap way to fix a leak.

Edit: Strike through on my mistake. It has been a while since I removed or installed an OEM turbo, my apologies.

 

The bellowed pipes to collector should have a ss crush gasket, which should never need replaced. If the bolts were loose and a ss gasket burnt, you can find new ones with bolts, i would check for them at riffraff first

 

In addition, in post #22 you said from RiffRaff, but in post #24 you said Dorman. Riffraff doesn't sell Dorman up pipes.

The only reason why I bring this up is you appear to have a leak issue with the up pipes. Dorman is "usually" acceptable when talking about up pipes, but Riffraff will be superior in most ways.

If they are Dorman, you may have a manufacturing flaw or misalignment, but with Riffraff you likely have a fastener that came loose.

I hope this helps and please keep us updated.

 

correct. I went into my riff raff orders and my Amazon orders and I did the dorman up pipes from Amazon.