Should I get one while on Black Friday sale or not?

2000 F-250 SCSB 4x4 ZF6

I'm at almost 200k on a nearly stock truck. As far as I know the engine has never been gone into. Getting ready to replace CAC boots, probably up-pipes, and install a Hydra tuner. I mostly run empty at highway speeds and on the interstate. I won't tow often if I do it'll be a medium (according to turbo matrix) load at best. I think the heaviest thing I have at current is my dad's small tractor and its trailer which come in around 6k lbs. Considering purchasing a camper in the next few years, but it'll be something that can also be pulled by the F-100 so maybe 3-4k loaded. I suppose I also have the option of borrowing my parent's camper which weighs in around 5k, but I know the truck will handle all of that since it used to belong to them. My heavier towing will mostly be the flat and hills around middle Georgia area, but camping will probably get up into the North GA mountains around where @Sous and @SkySkiJason are located.

I know when I mentioned getting a hydra in another thread a while back I was warned about the possibility of turbo surge, and I'd need a billet wheel to fix it. After a couple of 2 hour drives this week I think the truck would probably benefit from faster spool and decreased turbo lag. That said I freely admit that I am throwing those terms around without really understanding what they mean and affect performance.

Thoughts? Should I pull the trigger?

 

I would not pull the trigger on a mod that does not have a proven need yet. With loads of 6K or less, you may not have to worry about surge. The hydra, on the other hand, IS a need , and will really wake the truck up - after checking the rig to ensure it's 100%, the tuner is a great addition.

Great call looking at some reliability mods like uppipes. If they are not leaking though, you could leave them for when they do leak, or you need to pull the turbo for a rebuild. Mine were in good shape and not leaking when I pulled the turbo.

Have you done the other failure prevention mods, like hutch/harpoon the fuel tank? The failure prevention thread below has a handy list:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-thread.html

 

Definitely getting a Hydra, it's sitting in a box under the computer desk in front of me. Also on hand for install are CAC boots and clamps, plenum inserts, AIH Delete plug, 3-in-1 gauge (boost, fuel pressure, EGT), and an Atoto A6 head unit. Got new thermostat, rerouted radiator hose, heather core bypass valve, and stuff for a coolant change sitting at parent's house.

I'm unsure if the up-pipes are leaking or not, but I figure I probably need to pull at least one for installing the EGT sensor. Can probably be done without pulling the pipe, but I'd feel better if I could get in there to clean out any shavings/chips before they can get into the turbo. Pulling that means pulling turbo and I can't see reinstalling the old up-pipes after I've taken them out.

No hutch/harpoon mod yet. The entire sending unit was replaced probably within the last 30k miles, so I think I've got a little time before I have to worry about the failure it prevents. That said it is on my list of to-do if I have easy access, or if I exhibit any related issues it will be done ASAP. The other failure prevention stuff is either good, will be checked during above work, low priority at the moment (a/c clutch gap fix & brakes are well maintained), or does not apply (no autotragic transmission).

I'm still trying to decide if I want to pull the valve covers while I've got the charge pipes off. If I do it's getting new gaskets and harnesses, glow plugs, and not sure if I'd mess with injectors beyond maybe retorquing them. If I did any more with the injectors I'd be inclined to install new o-rings, and possibly shim them to try and ensure another trouble free 200k. I think that I am aware of the forum's consensus on shimming, but I'd rather do that than buy injectors for now. If that kills their value as cores later on so be it, by then I should be in a much better and better paying job.

 

I differ from BWST a little bit here. I really like the billet wheel (Riffraff version) and think it pairs nicely with the Hydra. You have 200k on the stock turbo so a rebuild wouldn’t be a bad idea and the KC balanced assembly comes with a rebuild kit.

You could wait and see, or save $62.50 by purchasing today.

That said, you can do a rebuild + billet wheel for a lot less. Maybe $240 compared to $382.50(sale price).

All up to you. Turbo surge can be a pain. I only saw it towing at partial load ~15psi.

Personally I wouldn’t touch the valve cover gaskets etc unless they presented an issue. Been seeing too many new part failure threads lately.

 

Josht, friends and family are always welcome to our neck of the woods. We look forward to the day when your schedule lines up with a GTG or Tech Day.

As for the truck... Jeff (BWST) is a good friend of mine and I could not have said it better myself. Make sure the truck is 100%, then go for modifications, upgrades and updates that will get you to your goal. That is the route I took and I have been fortunate enough to achieve reliability, longevity and efficiency. I have complete confidence in our truck to tow heavy long distance and cross country, and that is what we do with it. I have complete confidence in it to start up after sitting for a couple of months during winter and off season.

Based on your projected use, the OEM GTP38 turbo may be sufficient. If you want a bump in performance, a Riffraff 4/4 wheel would suit your needs quite well. I say this based on my first hand experiences while towing a 38 ft 5th wheel cross country. That is easily twice the load you "may" haul and it did OK. I ended up going T4, but that is NOT the right path for everyone.

You should be 100% sure about your up-pipes leaking or not. Regarding up-pipes, Dorman have done OK, Black Horse Racing have done OK and if you want a quality built set, Riffraff has a set that is between budget and premium up-pipes like International.

At 200,000 miles, glow plugs might be a good idea. Although, you can test them with a multimeter and know for sure. I replaced my glow plugs, UVCH and gaskets in 2018 during the T4 install. That was after I found 3 out of 8 glow plugs tested bad. The UVCH and gaskets were replaced with Alliant after I found a Dorman on the driver side that the PO had installed. No issues with the Dorman UVCH were noted, I just don't prefer to run them.

I did not retorque or hot torque my injectors. They had been in the truck for 250,000 miles and 18 years and I figured since it wasn't broke, don't fix it. They are still working great at 263,000 miles towing heavy cross country. They are tired and starting to show wear, but for now they are staying.

Don't spend money or replace parts based on internet lore. Trust but verify... Use advice and guidance wisely as you vet that information with your application in mind.

EDIT: RacinJasonWV is also a good friend of mine that I trust and has good advice for you. He was replying at the same time.

 

Man, that sale on the balanced assembly is tempting. Trying to hold myself back and take my own advise - I don't need it yet.

You had expressed interest in the travelling wheel awhile back. That wheel, or the Riffraff 4/4 suggested here might be more than adequate. I'm not sure just when I will be pulling the turbo again - I might wait and do injectors first.

Interested to see what you decide.

 

If I'm going to rebuild, it's definitely getting a billet wheel. I the question then becomes, which billet wheel is better? It'd probably be between RiffRaff and KC, but no idea which is better. I've seen several comments on the RiffRaff 4x4, not as many on the KC 6x6. That said KC gets a lot of good reviews for their turbo stuff so I don't think I'd be going wrong with either.

I guess it comes down to if the KC S300 turbine wheel ($255 by itself) and having a "fully balanced" assembly is worth the current $140 price difference.

Sale goes through Monday, so I'll think about it for a day or two. Either I'll make a decision, or it'll sell out and the decision will be made for me.

As for condition of the truck, based on previous discussions I think the truck is already at or close to the 95% mark, and the already planned stuff should get me close to that last 5%. Hell on that trip I took earlier this week I did about 250 miles and by my calculation I got a hair over 19.5 MPG. Most of it back roads, state highway, running with traffic, and a little bit of stop ang go through towns. Can't need too much if it's doing that good.

 

In theory,more blades moves more air in lower RPMs.
Less blades moves more air in the upper RPMs.

 

@03Steve
Is running the stock plus turbo and is very happy with it, same as the balanced assembly.

Dont trust any of these guys, they are all part of a secret club, PMS. Its like hosting an AA meeting at a bar.


Id say buy it and stick it on the shelf till your ready. You can always get your $ back out of it if you decide to sell. especially if you pick it up for %15 off

 

I held out as long as I could…got my tracking number Wednesday…sucker for a good deal! I had to get a wheel at a minimum, my 9 year old keeps asking why he can’t here the turbo like in the old dually! Hoping this and the Walker muffler swap might keep him happy! I put a Wicked wheel and a Magaflow system on the old 7.3, no drone towing the camper, sounded good to us!

 

Chris brings up a good point...

 

Sounds like a little projection going on there.

I was kind of thinking along those lines too.

Yes he does, a little too good of a point.

Let us know how it sounds with the exhaust. Maybe a before and after recording if it's not too much trouble? It's low priority, but I'm considering an exhaust down the road. Not needed, just cause. I want to quiet the engine noise what I can, but I might like more exhaust and turbo sounds if that makes sense.

 

Damned it Chris, you convinced me.

Ok, might not have taken much convincing. That was my take on it as well. If I don't like/use it I can probably get most of the money back out of it.

well... crap... That day or two went by pretty quick. Felt like only a few hours.

 

My experience with the balanced assembly is all positive. So far, I’ve only used it in trucks with single shot injectors, but Stage 1 injectors are very comparable to stock injectors with a tune - except the bigger injectors can do more in the hottest tunes.

 

That’s funny.

Let us know how you like it!