Performance issue
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Performance issue
Hello, I recently replaced the VC gaskets, and glow plugs and the truck since then has not ran correctly I scanned the truck and got P0344 and then that went away the next day. Now I am getting P1272, P1274, P1276. I then pulled the valve cover to check for loose connections and I saw nothing and even now I got them 3 injectors codes and also P1293 and P1294. I have checked the connections multiple times, I have checked the resistance between the vch and the idm it is all within spec. I would greatly appreciate any ideas. I did use the dorman valve covers and I don’t want to do it if it’s not needed but I am able to put the old ones in just to test it.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
It was starting to get into the cold months here so I decided it is time for the gaskets and glow plugs because it was starting to get hard to start. Both of the gaskets are new. Is my only choice to maybe return them? I already wired in the pigtails
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,344
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Before returning the Dorman UVCH, reinstall the take off gasket and UVCH. If the running condition improves, then Dorman has once again wasted someone's time and money.
If the poor running condition remains, look into the wiring job you performed when installing the pigtails. You said you tested the connections, but something is amiss and the 1st suspect is the last part installed.
If the poor running condition remains, look into the wiring job you performed when installing the pigtails. You said you tested the connections, but something is amiss and the 1st suspect is the last part installed.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,476
Likes: 2,009
From: North Texas
So you replaced parts without any testing for the 'hard to start' condition and said parts were the cheapest available? What glow plugs did you install?
Batts could be crap, bad GP relay, clapped battery cables, tired starter, etc.
Yes, I would return that Dorman ****.
Batts could be crap, bad GP relay, clapped battery cables, tired starter, etc.
Yes, I would return that Dorman ****.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
I did put the correct motorcraft glow plugs in.they were replaced over 100k miles ago so I decided it was time. The reason for replacing the gaskets was I knew the pins on for sure one valve cover gasket were melted and I am only a 17 year old kid doing school on the week and work on the weekends so I was on a tight budget. The passenger side dorman seems to have no issues but the drivers side is sending them codes.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,344
Likes: 5,941
From: Lake Hartwell, GA
I did put the correct motorcraft glow plugs in.they were replaced over 100k miles ago so I decided it was time. The reason for replacing the gaskets was I knew the pins on for sure one valve cover gasket were melted and I am only a 17 year old kid doing school on the week and work on the weekends so I was on a tight budget. The passenger side dorman seems to have no issues but the drivers side is sending them codes.
Dorman is generally a bad choice. We all have to learn sometime and this is your opportunity. Dorman is "acceptable" if it will get you back on the road, but not for long term. Do some troubleshooting and investigating. Take the appropriate action after that in order to resolve the issues.
I would like to commend you for doing your own work. Being a 17 year old DIY'r on a 25 year old truck is a good thing to see and somewhat refreshing.
Keep us updated.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Well I just got the old valve cover in and the codes were still there but I decided to start it and give it a try and I instantly stopped diesel is pouring out from somewhere
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Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Okay, I got it all back together and found the fuel leak and did fix it. Runs real good other than a really long crank time but I think it’s just air in the lines. It still acts a little weird on the top end doesn’t sound right to me is there a chance it could be air in the lines that is making it act like this? I did take an injector out awhile ago and checked the o rings which did look good to me. Maybe when I took it out a lot of air got into the oil system? Yes I did take the gp out to remove the oil in the cylinder. I’m sorry if I’m being a little confusing just trying to get everything I have down out there so it’s easier to pin point what’s wrong. Could it simply just be air in the lines and I need to drive the truck? I’m putting a new cps in on Tuesday just to see
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 788
From: Kinnula,Finland
Yes,it needs to be driven hard to push the air out of the system.
Also keep your tank atleast 1/2 full,to eliminate possible air intrusion from broken tank pickup foot.
Injector buzz test is good when diagnosing wiring issue.
How many miles on the injectors?
I don't recommend pulling injectors just for "checking orings",or swapping only orings.
If injectors are under suspiction,have them rebuilded or swap new ones.
Also keep your tank atleast 1/2 full,to eliminate possible air intrusion from broken tank pickup foot.
Injector buzz test is good when diagnosing wiring issue.
How many miles on the injectors?
I don't recommend pulling injectors just for "checking orings",or swapping only orings.
If injectors are under suspiction,have them rebuilded or swap new ones.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Hello, yea I do have forscan and have performed the buzz tests the injectors all sound good to me but it sends the codes me for 2,4,6 and the high side open on the banks when the test is over. I did not get these codes just 2 days ago when I did the buzz test. I have checked multiple times what color each of my wire goes to on every pigtail and they all look correct to me except one of them is suppose to be a white wire on the driver side but both of them are tan instead with no white to be seen
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,096
Likes: 1,498
From: western SD
Hello, yea I do have forscan and have performed the buzz tests the injectors all sound good to me but it sends the codes me for 2,4,6 and the high side open on the banks when the test is over. I did not get these codes just 2 days ago when I did the buzz test. I have checked multiple times what color each of my wire goes to on every pigtail and they all look correct to me except one of them is suppose to be a white wire on the driver side but both of them are tan instead with no white to be seen
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
Sorry if it came off that I color matched the wires, it was a misunderstandment. I actually did one wire at a time and when I was done and having these issues I checked the color of the original wire running to each glow plug and injector and they were all correct except a white wire was suppose to be the common or something but it was tan on both sides. Also can I just thank you for having such fast replies. Everyone on this website is so fast at responding and helping and I would just like to say I GREATLY appreciate all the help and advice. Best forums I’ve ever used!
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
I’m not sure if anyone is opening this thread anymore but I did switch the valve cover gasket with no luck I am still getting the same codes when I do the buzz test. I put my forscan scanner on and took it for a drive while recording everything and when I go wot and get up to 2800 rpm the icp and ipr seem to be normal but the truck does not want to go any higher than 2800 rpm