I’ve looked through the post for learning the Crank Sensor but couldn’t find anything. So, my question is how do you learn a new crank sensor without a reader. Installed the new sensor but missing like a champ. I’m getting a good ohm reading from the pins to the sensor (390-398 ohms). Is there a way to do this manually?

 

Are you getting a code for the crank position sensor?

 

I didn't even know this was necessary when installing a new crank or cam sensor. I swapped them both out as preventative when I yanked the engine out and didn't need to go through any re-learn.

Are you sure you have the correct part and it is plugged in all the way?

The harness is a PITA down there and it routes where it can easily be pinched. Have you checked the integrity of it?

I am curious as to what is happening.

 

That’s the message but I don’t think it’s the sensor; I replaced the old, I think it’s in the wiring. I get a reading of 390-397 ohms from the pins to the sensor. Can I get an ohm reading with both endS unplugged?

 

Joe blow, 😂
I don’t know if you are able to read what I just posted to another fellow but here it is.
”That’s the message but I don’t think it’s the sensor; I replaced the old, I think it’s in the wiring. I get a reading of 390-397 ohms from the pins to the sensor. Can I get an ohm reading with both endS unplugged?”
I got the part from Ford.

 

I just don’t understand the issue? Do you have a crank position code or not? If not, why do you think it is the problem?

 

yes I have a crank position code. Reads “Crank sensor a circuit.”

 

You don't. There is no such thing. If you're getting a crank sensor error, it's either

1) sensor
2) loose connection at the sensor
3) Sensor pig tail
4) Loose connection at the PCM
5) Bad connector at the PCM
6) Bad pins on the PCM
7) Bad wiring between the PCM and Sensor.

Need to get a wiring diagram and know which PCM pins go to the sensor. May need to pull the sensor again and ohm it to prove it's good. Then start checking the wiring. Visually, short to ground, continuity, etc.

If you've got some alligator clips you can use with a multimeter, you may be able to check the sensor out without removing it. But that's assuming a good connection between the pigtail and the sensor.

 

Yep that’s the info I have been waiting for. I believe I have a bad connection somewhere. I will find it based on what you have given me. I do know what pins to check so that’s a head start. I bought a sensor at O’Reillys put it in and had the same problem, took it back and went to Ford, same problem.
Thank you much and have a great Thanksgiving

 

Hi Bryan,
I got an ohm reading from the pigtail of the crank sensor and the pins on both sides. The readings were .9 and .6 ohms. Does that mean a bad wire or pigtail? Thanks

 

I see a problem with the purchase at O’Reillys.
They are known for problems. This truck likes to have you stick with Ford or International parts.
Other brands tend to be substandard with Ebay and Amazon being a even higher risk of getting
fake Ford Motorcraft parts. 0.9Ω and 0.6Ω being so low that most meters can't be trusted for
a reading at the low of a range.

 

what type of reading should I get just on the wire?
yes I decided to take it back and put on OEM.

 

Any thing less than 3 Ω I would call good. That said you should use the tone continuity mode and do a
wiggle test. That is a better way to find any intermittent open circuit. The beep will give a faster response
than the meter display. So hook up both ends and wiggle the harness. If you hear a skip in the tone
then look at the point where the tone changed.

 

Will do, thank you