Relearn Crank Position Sensor
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
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Relearn Crank Position Sensor
I’ve looked through the post for learning the Crank Sensor but couldn’t find anything. So, my question is how do you learn a new crank sensor without a reader. Installed the new sensor but missing like a champ. I’m getting a good ohm reading from the pins to the sensor (390-398 ohms). Is there a way to do this manually?
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Joined: May 2004
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I didn't even know this was necessary when installing a new crank or cam sensor. I swapped them both out as preventative when I yanked the engine out and didn't need to go through any re-learn.
Are you sure you have the correct part and it is plugged in all the way?
The harness is a PITA down there and it routes where it can easily be pinched. Have you checked the integrity of it?
I am curious as to what is happening.
Are you sure you have the correct part and it is plugged in all the way?
The harness is a PITA down there and it routes where it can easily be pinched. Have you checked the integrity of it?
I am curious as to what is happening.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
That’s the message but I don’t think it’s the sensor; I replaced the old, I think it’s in the wiring. I get a reading of 390-397 ohms from the pins to the sensor. Can I get an ohm reading with both endS unplugged?
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
I didn't even know this was necessary when installing a new crank or cam sensor. I swapped them both out as preventative when I yanked the engine out and didn't need to go through any re-learn.
Are you sure you have the correct part and it is plugged in all the way?
The harness is a PITA down there and it routes where it can easily be pinched. Have you checked the integrity of it?
I am curious as to what is happening.
Are you sure you have the correct part and it is plugged in all the way?
The harness is a PITA down there and it routes where it can easily be pinched. Have you checked the integrity of it?
I am curious as to what is happening.
I don’t know if you are able to read what I just posted to another fellow but here it is.
”That’s the message but I don’t think it’s the sensor; I replaced the old, I think it’s in the wiring. I get a reading of 390-397 ohms from the pins to the sensor. Can I get an ohm reading with both endS unplugged?”
I got the part from Ford.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
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yes I have a crank position code. Reads “Crank sensor a circuit.”
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
I’ve looked through the post for learning the Crank Sensor but couldn’t find anything. So, my question is how do you learn a new crank sensor without a reader. Installed the new sensor but missing like a champ. I’m getting a good ohm reading from the pins to the sensor (390-398 ohms). Is there a way to do this manually?
1) sensor
2) loose connection at the sensor
3) Sensor pig tail
4) Loose connection at the PCM
5) Bad connector at the PCM
6) Bad pins on the PCM
7) Bad wiring between the PCM and Sensor.
Need to get a wiring diagram and know which PCM pins go to the sensor. May need to pull the sensor again and ohm it to prove it's good. Then start checking the wiring. Visually, short to ground, continuity, etc.
If you've got some alligator clips you can use with a multimeter, you may be able to check the sensor out without removing it. But that's assuming a good connection between the pigtail and the sensor.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
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You don't. There is no such thing. If you're getting a crank sensor error, it's either
1) sensor
2) loose connection at the sensor
3) Sensor pig tail
4) Loose connection at the PCM
5) Bad connector at the PCM
6) Bad pins on the PCM
7) Bad wiring between the PCM and Sensor.
Need to get a wiring diagram and know which PCM pins go to the sensor. May need to pull the sensor again and ohm it to prove it's good. Then start checking the wiring. Visually, short to ground, continuity, etc.
If you've got some alligator clips you can use with a multimeter, you may be able to check the sensor out without removing it. But that's assuming a good connection between the pigtail and the sensor.
1) sensor
2) loose connection at the sensor
3) Sensor pig tail
4) Loose connection at the PCM
5) Bad connector at the PCM
6) Bad pins on the PCM
7) Bad wiring between the PCM and Sensor.
Need to get a wiring diagram and know which PCM pins go to the sensor. May need to pull the sensor again and ohm it to prove it's good. Then start checking the wiring. Visually, short to ground, continuity, etc.
If you've got some alligator clips you can use with a multimeter, you may be able to check the sensor out without removing it. But that's assuming a good connection between the pigtail and the sensor.
Thank you much and have a great Thanksgiving
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
You don't. There is no such thing. If you're getting a crank sensor error, it's either
1) sensor
2) loose connection at the sensor
3) Sensor pig tail
4) Loose connection at the PCM
5) Bad connector at the PCM
6) Bad pins on the PCM
7) Bad wiring between the PCM and Sensor.
Need to get a wiring diagram and know which PCM pins go to the sensor. May need to pull the sensor again and ohm it to prove it's good. Then start checking the wiring. Visually, short to ground, continuity, etc.
If you've got some alligator clips you can use with a multimeter, you may be able to check the sensor out without removing it. But that's assuming a good connection between the pigtail and the sensor.
1) sensor
2) loose connection at the sensor
3) Sensor pig tail
4) Loose connection at the PCM
5) Bad connector at the PCM
6) Bad pins on the PCM
7) Bad wiring between the PCM and Sensor.
Need to get a wiring diagram and know which PCM pins go to the sensor. May need to pull the sensor again and ohm it to prove it's good. Then start checking the wiring. Visually, short to ground, continuity, etc.
If you've got some alligator clips you can use with a multimeter, you may be able to check the sensor out without removing it. But that's assuming a good connection between the pigtail and the sensor.
I got an ohm reading from the pigtail of the crank sensor and the pins on both sides. The readings were .9 and .6 ohms. Does that mean a bad wire or pigtail? Thanks
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
I see a problem with the purchase at O’Reillys.
They are known for problems. This truck likes to have you stick with Ford or International parts.
Other brands tend to be substandard with Ebay and Amazon being a even higher risk of getting
fake Ford Motorcraft parts. 0.9Ω and 0.6Ω being so low that most meters can't be trusted for
a reading at the low of a range.
They are known for problems. This truck likes to have you stick with Ford or International parts.
Other brands tend to be substandard with Ebay and Amazon being a even higher risk of getting
fake Ford Motorcraft parts. 0.9Ω and 0.6Ω being so low that most meters can't be trusted for
a reading at the low of a range.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
I see a problem with the purchase at O’Reillys.
They are known for problems. This truck likes to have you stick with Ford or International parts.
Other brands tend to be substandard with Ebay and Amazon being a even higher risk of getting
fake Ford Motorcraft parts. 0.9Ω and 0.6Ω being so low that most meters can't be trusted for
a reading at the low of a range.
They are known for problems. This truck likes to have you stick with Ford or International parts.
Other brands tend to be substandard with Ebay and Amazon being a even higher risk of getting
fake Ford Motorcraft parts. 0.9Ω and 0.6Ω being so low that most meters can't be trusted for
a reading at the low of a range.
yes I decided to take it back and put on OEM.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
Any thing less than 3 Ω I would call good. That said you should use the tone continuity mode and do a
wiggle test. That is a better way to find any intermittent open circuit. The beep will give a faster response
than the meter display. So hook up both ends and wiggle the harness. If you hear a skip in the tone
then look at the point where the tone changed.
wiggle test. That is a better way to find any intermittent open circuit. The beep will give a faster response
than the meter display. So hook up both ends and wiggle the harness. If you hear a skip in the tone
then look at the point where the tone changed.
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