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Ubolts for Procomp 22415

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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 02:51 AM
  #1  
MobyDick!'s Avatar
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Ubolts for Procomp 22415

Been lurking here a while and finally pulled the trigger on the Pirate Pro Comp setup. Got one rear leaf in and the Ubolts are about 3 inchs too long.
​​​​​​I used PMF.

These are the options for the rear Ubolts on the PMF website

It doesn't allow you to select length. Should be about 8 inches.

Where did I screw up? 🤔
There are plenty of threads can I just cut off 2 or 3 inches?
Thanks in advance.

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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 09:03 AM
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Yes, just cut the bolts to the length you need. Real common thing in the 4x4 / off-road world.

That's why the bolts are threaded so far down actually, to allow the same set of bolts to be used in multiple applications of various lift block height (that way the manufacture can stocker fewer part numbers and still cover a lot of applications) and be cut to fit by the end user.
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 09:31 AM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Antonm
Yes, just cut the bolts to the length you need. Real common thing in the 4x4 / off-road world.

That's why the bolts are threaded so far down actually, to allow the same set of bolts to be used in multiple applications of various lift block height (that way the manufacture can stocker few part numbers) and be cut to fit by the end user.
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Great thanks Antonm!
 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 09:36 AM
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I would recommend a sawzall or hacksaw type bladed device over a grinder with a cutoff wheel. While the grinder probably doesn't make enough heat to affect the temper of the bolts metal, it makes a lot more heat than a sawzall or hacksaw blade does. Again, the heat from the grinder may not be anything to be concerned about as far a metallurgy goes, but why introduce the heat at all when there is another option available that doesn't generate near as much.
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Antonm
I would recommend a sawzall or hacksaw type bladed device over a grinder with a cutoff wheel. While the grinder probably doesn't make enough heat to affect the temper of the bolts metal, it makes a lot more heat than a sawzall or hacksaw blade does. Again, the heat from the grinder may not be anything to be concerned about as far a metallurgy goes, but why introduce the heat at all when there is another option available that doesn't generate near as much.
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Yeah I planned on getting the bolts on the truck with nuts installed and cutting off about 2 inches with my sawzall
 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 10:45 AM
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Here is what I was left with after doing the 22415 in the rear without the blocks. I didn’t cut them and am not sure I need to.



 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rtbrjason
Here is what I was left with after doing the 22415 in the rear without the blocks. I didn’t cut them and am not sure I need to.


problem I'm having is I can't even fit my deep well socket over the nut.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 12:00 PM
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Looks like we got different U-Bolts then. This is what mine from PMF looked like, I needed to cut obviously


 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 12:02 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by rtbrjason
Here is what I was left with after doing the 22415 in the rear without the blocks. I didn’t cut them and am not sure I need to.
Did you add the traction bar leaf spring from the OEM spring pack to the 22415 pack? Picture kinda look like you did. And if you did, why?
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 12:08 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Antonm
Did you add the traction bar leaf spring from the OEM spring pack to the 22415 pack? Picture kinda look like you did. And if you did, why?
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I did. I couldn’t find any reason not to, and with removing the rear block I wanted to make sure it stayed pretty close to level or slightly raked down toward the front. The traction bar adds about half an inch. The bumpers don’t make contact with the springs unfortunately. Trying to figure out a way to extend those about an inch so they do.

 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 12:10 PM
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I believe my bolts were 8”. Is that the PMF top plate that keeps the bump stop/airbag tang? I am considering those but yours look a bit different.

Originally Posted by Antonm
Looks like we got different U-Bolts then. This is what mine from PMF looked like, I needed to cut obviously

 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rtbrjason
I believe my bolts were 8”. Is that the PMF top plate that keeps the bump stop/airbag tang? I am considering those but yours look a bit different.
Yes, that's the PMF airbag tang top spring plate. The reason it may look different is I have the Daystar airbag cradles bolted to them (but not the airbags ) in the picture.

I figured I'd just keep like 5 psi in the airbags to level the truck if needed instead of using the stock traction bar leaf.
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 01:26 PM
  #13  
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Here's what I have with the 2 degree shim.
Side note: the shim isn't flat against the springs but I guess it wouldn't be just seemed odd. Does it compress and conform under the full weight of the vehicle?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 01:32 PM
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When you install the other U-bolt and tighten both, it will be flat against the springs.
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Old Nov 17, 2021 | 04:44 PM
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Well I got the bolts cut and went on to the passenger side. Dreaded ac line fiasco but got the forward spring bolt out. The rear... Idk what's going on. I broke torque on the spring to shackle. The shackle to frame feels like the bolt is rust welded to the bushing and is turning the bushing. The nut is free turning and almost off. The bolt just will not come out. Any ideas?
 
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