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For stock springs/ride height 72 F250 4x4, what setup are you guys using for the draglink and steering arm? 78-79 power steering box installed.
Currently running a 4.10 78 dana 44 HP with steering riser block to get the draglink running horizontal from the PS box. Came across a 3.54 78 d60 for the 4bt swap. Stock steering arm is pretty low. Not interested in the crossover steering.
I see there are links/arms that could maybe bolt up. I've also seen s-shape drag links but am not finding much. These stuff is from BGY:
Thanks and Happy Fall Weather!
Sam
"The steering block mounts to the top of the knuckle. This raises the mountng point of the steering arm about 2.5", reducing some of the angle of the drag link when the truck is lifted." "For 4wd trucks with leaf spring front ends. For 4wd truck with 4 bolt power steering box. 3" drop 4 indexing splines"
The post above is the best way to go. Did this on our Dana 60 back in the 80's.
FYI The taper on all tie rod ends are the same. 1.5 inch taper per foot. The only difference between Chevy, Ford, Jeep is how deep or shallow the taper is made.
Thanks all. Are you guys having an ok angle from steering arm down to knuckle arm? I have in my head drag link is supposed to run parallel with ball joints.
Lrrrr your drag link looks the same as mine (pieced together stock ream). Is there any reason this adj link wouldn’t work:
Thanks again
That looks like it would work. I changed it to the top to avoid having to add a block but it looks like you already have one.
You want it parallel but a few degrees shouldn't be terrible. I went with Chevy stuff because it was cheap and available. If what you have works I would keep it.
Hey guys, I bought the 7deg reamer and am assembling and blasting/cleaning up the pieces while Inland Truck is bearing and sealing the differential. Not going too fancy using the original carrier, some day I’ll put a trak lok in the rear end.
Replacing PA inner shaft because seal surface has heavy pitting. I got sent spicer 660048-1 which appears much thicker shaft, but same length, spline count. Any reason I couldn’t run this? I ordered 660182-10, should I get fussy about this or run it.
The spacer plate was on the passenger side right next to the knuckle. Did you guys have that and should I put it on? What is it for.
This d60 seems to have never been gone through with the exception of the hubs which had a mess of blue marine grease in there.
Lrrrr, I saw your high steer thread, curious why you’re doing that.
Plan is to get everything installed minus shim, then take it for alignment, have them tell what I need for corrections. Going to try shims between knuckle and brake bracket if it needs camber correction. Looks like there are a shims and then some eccentric bottom and top kits but want to keep it simple. I have 32’s so hopefully the stock size wouldn’t need much adjusting.
Lrrrr, Thanks for the reaming info. Since the stock ball joint taper faces up on the steering arm, I’d have to open up the top of the taper, and the gm/chevy 1 ton would be alot wider at the top, the narrowest of the taper would be the stock widest. Does that sound correct?
Thanks for the suggestions on running the 1ton chevy drag link. Ended up following the recipe reaming d60 arm from the top, pitman arm from bottom, using es362s, es2027L, es2026R. Drag link is nearly parallel.
Tie rod and calipers were a direct swap from the 78-79 dana 44. There seems to be no real good solution to the shocks and towers being a bit out of alignment so will have to work that some.
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