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I'm probably opening a Pandora's box here, but.....
I'm in need of some new headlights. I replaced the bulbs which has done wonders, but now that we are getting into the cold, dark part of the year, I need more adequate lighting. Does anyone have a solution for housing replacement that they love? There are plenty of options online, but I don't like the crap shoot that comes with finding the right setup. I'm looking for something in this style. Not much out there that isn't made in China...
It really is a crap shoot when you get into aftermarket lights. At least when you are buying an OEM style light, you can usually make some prediction on quality, but on the aftermarket lights, there are so many variables to go right or wrong! That is a pretty cool looking light though. There are things you will never know until you use the light, such as is the reflector properly designed? What kind of longevity can you expect from the lenses? If you have the yellowed out specials that some of these trucks have developed over the years, you can probably bet that anything will be better, at least in the short run!
Aren't your headlights the same as a 2001 Excursion? If so, you want to swap to 05+ housing. It was actually a lot easier than I thought it would be, and the difference is, well, "night and day."
Take a look at the OEM 2005 Motorcraft light conversion. RiffRaff has new light sets and pigtails. Easy changeout only takes a few hours and basic tools. Huge improvement.
Did mine recently.
Yes the ones GregA mentioned are actually 02-04 housings. The 05+ were a one piece housing that incorporated the headlights, parking lights, and turn signals into one housing. Haven't tried anything but the stock style myself, but according to SSJ when I asked a few months ago the 02-04 are the way to go, 05+ is not an improvement.
I'm thinking about doing this, too. Are there any good fog light options? Mine are worse than my headlights, and I like to use them as "close critter" lights, to light the side of the road.
FTN... do you have any photos of the back side of your shoehorning?
(Or is there a link to a write up showing your shoehorning... "step by step"... )?
Step 1: Shoehorn
Step 2: ???
Step 3: Profit!!
Sorry. I neglected to take pictures as the headlight project progressed. I have promised to document the process the next time I build a set but I have not had reason to build another set yet.
Well, we can do a write up right here, with a Q & A.
Okay, let's give it a shot.
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
1. How hot do the aero plastic housings get with the LED sealed beam inside of them?
Not hot at all. All heat rejection is achieved via the back of the sealed beam unit (which is an aluminum heatsink), which is exposed to ambient air after the shoehorning.
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
2. How much condensation, if any, fogs the space between the inside of the aero lens cover and the LED sealed beam face?
None whatsoever. I was careful to blow the cavity out with dry air before sealing the edges. I also left the completed headlights in a warm dry environment for 48 hours before installing in the vehicle.
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
3. Have you had to sand and polish any plastic lens crazing on the aero housings you are using?
No I did not. The housings I used to create were fairly new at the time so they were still in good shape.
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
4. Have you ever been flashed? (By other drivers, not secret admirers)
No, I have not been flashed by other drivers. No comment on flashing by FansofTheNoob (aka FTN also).
Originally Posted by Y2KW57
5. How did you "focus" your LED sealed beams, and secure them into that position to maintain the focus you set?
That is the beauty of the sealed beams. They come properly focused for the light from each LED element to project where it is supposed to. It does not rely on the reflectors of the aero housings whatsoever. In fact, I polished the reflective surface of the aero housing (what was left of it after cutting the back out for the sealed beam unit) to remove the chrome coating. Another thing to point out is that I was careful to cut the backs of the aero housings out WITHOUT ALTERING THE FACTORY SCREW-ADJUSTING MOUNTS. This allows the headlight housings to be adjusted normally. The trick is to mount the sealed beam unit such that it projects light within the range of the adjusters. To that end I used a datum to determine the plane to cut in the back of the housing. I will need pictures to explain.
I feel this is where all the aftermarket LED 9007 bulbs fail to perform. They rely on the aero housings' reflector which is completely wrong for the placement of the LED element.
As for how I secured the sealed beams into the housing, a whole lot of epoxy resin, carbon fiber reinforcing fabric and polycarbonate-specific cyanoacrylate adhesives were used.
Take a look at the OEM 2005 Motorcraft light conversion. RiffRaff has new light sets and pigtails. Easy changeout only takes a few hours and basic tools. Huge improvement.
Did mine recently.
That looks good. Is each side a one piece housing?
All heat rejection is achieved via the back of the sealed beam unit (which is an aluminum heatsink), which is exposed to ambient air after the shoehorning.
I was careful to blow the cavity out with dry air before sealing the edges. I also left the completed headlights in a warm dry environment for 48 hours before installing in the vehicle.
I was careful to cut the backs of the aero housings out WITHOUT ALTERING THE FACTORY SCREW-ADJUSTING MOUNTS. This allows the headlight housings to be adjusted normally. The trick is to mount the sealed beam unit such that it projects light within the range of the adjusters. To that end I used a datum to determine the plane to cut in the back of the housing.
As for how I secured the sealed beams into the housing, a whole lot of epoxy resin, carbon fiber reinforcing fabric and polycarbonate-specific cyanoacrylate adhesives were used.
Yes these are the one piece housing. They use the two posts holes on the top and the two on the bottom where the running lights attached to the header for mounting. Adjustments are integrated into the light for up and down but point straight based on the header mounts.
No more shady adjustment screws and clips.
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