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I recently got my 06 going again after a few years down due to injection leaks. Even took it to dealer and after 2500 same problem. So I figured it out myself and changed all 8 injectors w factory. Truck ran great for a couple thousand miles and then fan clutch went out and did t buy dealer but autozone rebuilt(!@&. Dealer didn’t have one and needed it. Well after first overheat, hooked it up to AE and when commanded it came on. So I figured I didn’t reset code so it may have still had issue. After second overheat, I found that it only worked up to about 65% duty cycle then stopped. Truck got to 252 and was running rough. I was hoping that it was ok and just boiling fuel. Put 7.3 fan clutch in to avoid issues due to the fact I live in the desert. Truck runs fine now but summer is over. We will see next year. Issue I am now having is a long cold crank. Oil filer seems to be ok(drain stop) as it is wet and leaks off filter when I take it out. ICP on passenger side is up after sitting overnight. Haven’t checked driver side as I just got IPR leak tool from accurate diesel. So when I get into drivers side and it turns out to be full of oil, is there anything else that can cause a long start. No codes, did all AE tests for glow plugs, etc. inj buzz test good. Overheat cause inj to leak? ICP is from Oreillys but worked fine for 2000 miles until overheating. Can a partially clogs screen or object sticking in IPR cause long crank? It cranks for about 2-4 seconds before start. Engine runs smooth, no coolant leaks or signs of blown HG or egr leak. Would appreciate some pointers
So, 2 to 4 seconds of cold first start of the day cranking before it starts? That's not bad at all. I think Ford states anything over 30 seconds of cranking is excessive. Mine starts in about 2 seconds as well. Always has. B.
It always started after 1-2 seconds since I bought it new in 06. Except for when glow plugs went out. Ordered air test kit and air tested to find out drivers side did have leak under shop air pressure. Tore drivers side down and found leak to be at stand pipe. O ring was faulty.
Question, if stand pipe comes apart but oring iis ok, can you just put it back together? I know best practice is to replace which I am.
thanks
. Dealer didn’t have one and needed it. Well after first overheat, hooked it up to AE and when commanded it came on. So I figured I didn’t reset code so it may have still had issue. After second overheat, I found that it only worked up to about 65% duty cycle then stopped. Truck got to 252 and was running rough. I was hoping that it was ok and just boiling fuel. Put 7.3 fan clutch in to avoid issues due to the fact I live in the desert. Truck runs fine now but summer is over. We will see next year. Issue I am now having is a long cold crank. Oil filer seems to be ok(drain stop) as it is wet and leaks off filter when I take it out. ICP on passenger side is up after sitting overnight. Haven’t checked driver side as I just got IPR leak tool from accurate diesel. So when I get into drivers side and it turns out to be full of oil, is there anything else that can cause a long start. No codes, did all AE tests for glow plugs, etc. inj buzz test good. Overheat cause inj to leak? ICP is from Oreillys but worked fine for 2000 miles until overheating. Can a partially clogs screen or object sticking in IPR cause long crank? It cranks for about 2-4 seconds before start. Engine runs smooth, no coolant leaks or signs of blown HG or egr leak. Would appreciate some pointers
