No Crank
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
No Crank
Hey Folks, sorry but it’s a no start and
some of you have been helping me with troubleshooting my 05 f350.
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Went to start the truck and now it will not run at all. This is the message my OBDII gives
Heading: Emissions Related Engine DTCs
Message: No powertrain DCTs or freeze frame data is currently stored in the vehicles computer.
What the heck is going on? Getting desperate any and all help is needed. Thank you
some of you have been helping me with troubleshooting my 05 f350.
I just replaced the crankshaft position sensor. Went to start the truck and now it will not run at all. This is the message my OBDII gives
Heading: Emissions Related Engine DTCs
Message: No powertrain DCTs or freeze frame data is currently stored in the vehicles computer.
What the heck is going on? Getting desperate any and all help is needed. Thank you
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,920
Likes: 3,638
Start by checking fuse 22 under the dash on the drivers side.
Then you can try cranking with the key off and jumpering the starter solenoid wire (passenger side by the vacuum pump) to the passenger side battery (+) terminal.
It is the yellow with light blue striped colored wire which is adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, it is near the vacuum pump. It has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/960x720/80-image_2e79e5ce15d4581001f68628a6aeb55b1619332d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/960x720/80-image_a1bd34109315547fcef1b8679959fa26c7cadcb7.jpg
Then you can try cranking with the key off and jumpering the starter solenoid wire (passenger side by the vacuum pump) to the passenger side battery (+) terminal.
It is the yellow with light blue striped colored wire which is adjacent to the passenger side battery in the engine compartment, it is near the vacuum pump. It has a "squeeze-and-pull" type connection.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/960x720/80-image_2e79e5ce15d4581001f68628a6aeb55b1619332d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/960x720/80-image_a1bd34109315547fcef1b8679959fa26c7cadcb7.jpg
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,920
Likes: 3,638
Oh, your title said "No Crank", which means to most of us that you have no engine rotation with the key on.
Next step is to see if you have BOTH FICM sync and CAM/CRANK sync, and then if the FICM is issuing an Injector Pulse Width command (all available PIDS to be seen on a scan tool).
Lastly, post the cranking rpms.
Next step is to see if you have BOTH FICM sync and CAM/CRANK sync, and then if the FICM is issuing an Injector Pulse Width command (all available PIDS to be seen on a scan tool).
Lastly, post the cranking rpms.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Is the RPM gauge working and showing about the correct RPM? It takes 150 rpm to fire the injectors. If so, the crank position sensor is likely correct. IF the gauge is not working, you've either got a blown fuse or your not getting a signal from the crank sensor.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
Thank you, I’m going to get a fuse tester before I go back to the crank position sensor. I am not getting but about 2 rpm,s
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,402
Likes: 114
From: Tuscaloosa, AL
I had an issue with a cam position sensor once. I had to find out which pin it was that fed into the PCM and checked the Ohms there. I discovered I had no resistance, which told me it was a bad connection or a bad wire. Luckily the plug was simply loose. It fired right up after I cleaned the connector and plugged it back in.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
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I had an issue with a cam position sensor once. I had to find out which pin it was that fed into the PCM and checked the Ohms there. I discovered I had no resistance, which told me it was a bad connection or a bad wire. Luckily the plug was simply loose. It fired right up after I cleaned the connector and plugged it back in.
If it’s not a fuse which I haven’t checked yet I will look into the cam position sensor . I’m not a mechanic and I’m learning this diesel. Took it to a shop and the guy looking at it said he couldn’t get a code. I brought it home, plugged in my OBDII and I did. It coded for the crank position sensor. I don’t know why he couldn’t get one, he had a high end reader. Won’t be going back there. I replaced the crank position sensor and it wouldn’t run afterwards. I’m hoping I didn’t mess up a wire at the pigtail. I wish I knew what to look for. I guess we all have to learn. I appreciate you!
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Likes: 3,638
I gave you methods to test the crank sensor and harness in your other thread.
"To troubleshoot the ckp sensor: Check the resistance between the connector on the PCM Pin 30 (harness side) and Pin 41 (harness side). Resistance should be 300-400 ohms. The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over."
Replacing things without testing is a recipe to spend unneeded money, but unfortunately so many seem to follow that process.
Seems like we had to twist your arm to get a scan tool other than the SCT, but it seems that it is proving its value ....
Buying cheap non-OEM parts is unwise also, if that is possibly what you did on the CKP.
"To troubleshoot the ckp sensor: Check the resistance between the connector on the PCM Pin 30 (harness side) and Pin 41 (harness side). Resistance should be 300-400 ohms. The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over."
Replacing things without testing is a recipe to spend unneeded money, but unfortunately so many seem to follow that process.
Seems like we had to twist your arm to get a scan tool other than the SCT, but it seems that it is proving its value ....
Buying cheap non-OEM parts is unwise also, if that is possibly what you did on the CKP.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
I gave you methods to test the crank sensor and harness in your other thread.
"To troubleshoot the ckp sensor: Check the resistance between the connector on the PCM Pin 30 (harness side) and Pin 41 (harness side). Resistance should be 300-400 ohms. The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over."
Replacing things without testing is a recipe to spend unneeded money, but unfortunately so many seem to follow that process.
Seems like we had to twist your arm to get a scan tool other than the SCT, but it seems that it is proving its value ....
Buying cheap non-OEM parts is unwise also, if that is possibly what you did on the CKP.
"To troubleshoot the ckp sensor: Check the resistance between the connector on the PCM Pin 30 (harness side) and Pin 41 (harness side). Resistance should be 300-400 ohms. The CKP reading you should be getting from the CKP sensor, is between 150 to 200Hz, directly proportional to engine cranking RPM when the engine is cranked over."
Replacing things without testing is a recipe to spend unneeded money, but unfortunately so many seem to follow that process.
Seems like we had to twist your arm to get a scan tool other than the SCT, but it seems that it is proving its value ....
Buying cheap non-OEM parts is unwise also, if that is possibly what you did on the CKP.
I already had the scan tool but I needed the truck back on the road ASAP, I’m too slow.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,920
Likes: 3,638
Interesting.
Full retail on the OEM crankshaft sensor (CKP) is $50 at a dealership. You shouldn't have to pay more than that (and it can be had for $37 from dealerships that do internet business). Clearly you didn't get it at a dealership, so, even though it was expensive, it could be aftermarket.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-crankshaft-position-sensor-3c3z6c315aa
https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=61/mode=prod/prd61.htm
PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
Full retail on the OEM crankshaft sensor (CKP) is $50 at a dealership. You shouldn't have to pay more than that (and it can be had for $37 from dealerships that do internet business). Clearly you didn't get it at a dealership, so, even though it was expensive, it could be aftermarket.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-crankshaft-position-sensor-3c3z6c315aa
https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=61/mode=prod/prd61.htm
PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
Interesting.
Full retail on the OEM crankshaft sensor (CKP) is $50 at a dealership. You shouldn't have to pay more than that (and it can be had for $37 from dealerships that do internet business). Clearly you didn't get it at a dealership, so, even though it was expensive, it could be aftermarket.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-crankshaft-position-sensor-3c3z6c315aa
https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=61/mode=prod/prd61.htm
PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
Full retail on the OEM crankshaft sensor (CKP) is $50 at a dealership. You shouldn't have to pay more than that (and it can be had for $37 from dealerships that do internet business). Clearly you didn't get it at a dealership, so, even though it was expensive, it could be aftermarket.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-crankshaft-position-sensor-3c3z6c315aa
https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=61/mode=prod/prd61.htm
PCM - PowerTrain Control Module
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 94
Non motorcraft electrical parts will be hit or miss if they are within factory specs. And if they are , can often fail sooner than expected.
Do your self a favor, gets parts from a Ford dealer in person or online. eBay and Amazon motorcraft is a crap shoot often being counterfeit in a good looking package.
Do your self a favor, gets parts from a Ford dealer in person or online. eBay and Amazon motorcraft is a crap shoot often being counterfeit in a good looking package.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
Non motorcraft electrical parts will be hit or miss if they are within factory specs. And if they are , can often fail sooner than expected.
Do your self a favor, gets parts from a Ford dealer in person or online. eBay and Amazon motorcraft is a crap shoot often being counterfeit in a good looking package.
Do your self a favor, gets parts from a Ford dealer in person or online. eBay and Amazon motorcraft is a crap shoot often being counterfeit in a good looking package.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,920
Likes: 3,638
Well anyway - best of luck.