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Just had another thought on the IPR. Is it best to buy genuine Ford or is aftermarket ok?
Regarding any/all sensors and valves for the 7.3L, acdiez nailed it... I would add that if you NEEDED to purchase an aftermarket to get back on the road or out of a bad situation, go for it. But, have a genuine Ford, Motorcraft or International sensor on the way or in your plan to resolve the issue completely.
Originally Posted by acdiez
Ford/Motorcraft or International is going to be your go to for sensors. Aftermarket is always hit or miss.
Ok, here we go! Cam sensor arrived and sat on the table till my son came and changed it out because I still have no time. No change. I had him crank on it and watch the tach. He said it doesn’t move steadily like if the engine were running but it does move up and down to roughly 250. I think I’ll have time to order my diagnostic toys tonight but if I have time this weekend I’m going trim through some of the other suggestions you guys have given me like the IPR and pigtail and I think it was the # 30 fuse. One of the replies mentioned unplugging the fuel bowl heater. I just replaced it when I overhauled the filter housing should I go ahead and unplug it anyway
The fuel bowl heaters share a fuse with the PCM(fuse 30), and have developed a reputation of shorting out and blowing the fuse. Which kills power to the PCM and in turn the engine. Typically they are unnecessary unless your in some of the coldest reagions on the planet, and even then it's debatable. So most people just disconnect the plug to avoid any potential trouble. I don't believe I've seen any reports of them causing engine fires like some of the Dodge/Jeep diesels had so really it's your call.
Grab a bright flashlight and disconnect the sensors you are looking closer at. Perform a visual inspection of the wires just before they enter the connector. Looking at the IPR, CPS, EOT and ICP wires would only take a few minutes and might be worth the effort while you wait for your diagnostic toys.
@56Jimmy , I was reminded that I actually have a video of my 2000 7.3L RPM gauge cranking while filming. This is how my RPM gauge bounces a bit when starting. I am hopeful this gives you a bit more information regarding what you guys are looking at on the RPM gauge based on your previous posts.
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Sous, I just saw your post. Thank you for that. I have some news on my end. I still have no time so my son who is pretty handy has been helping out. He pulled the IPR and used the video you sent to take it apart and clean it. After he put it back in the truck started right up again. But it ran really rough. So I ordered a new Ford IPR and he pulled it in. The engine smoothed out quite a bit but it still has a lot of white smoke that smells like unburned fuel and has a miss. I have also ordered a new ICP sensor but it hasn’t arrived yet. Also my new OBD Link MX came today. I have already purchased the FORScan lite app on my phone but I haven’t bought my new head unit yet. Haven’t had time to hook it up and use it yet, but tomorrow is the day. It seems odd to me that there has been no check engine light pop up through all of this. Is that normal
Received my new OBDLINK MX yesterday. Finally have a little time today to try and use it. Followed the instructions in the package and it keeps giving me a message saying it is connected to my phone but it cannot connect to the vehicle. Unplugged and started from the beginning 3 times. Same message. Emailed support but haven’t heard back yet.
I am now wondering if it is possible to disable this OBD port and or the check engine light. As I stated in my earlier post the check engine light if it has one has never come on even though it so obviously has issues.
I’m pretty new here so if I should be posting these questions someplace please let me know
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