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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 09:28 AM
  #1  
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Diagnostic equipment

First let me say, I love this place. I just bought a 2000 F350 7.3 that has been sitting for almost 3 years because the previous owner didn’t know how to make it run right. I’m a pretty good parts changer but since I don’t have sophisticated diagnostic equipment that is my fate. I’ve learned a lot and got a lot of help from FTE in the past. But I’m thinking about making an investment in some tools that will help me find the problems with this truck and keep it running right in the future. My son has a 2014 F250 6.7 diesel and he’s willing to share costs. Neither of us has a laptop but are willing to purchase one if needed. Now the question. It looks like there are a lot of choices. How do I choose the right diagnostic tools? Thank you all in advance.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 09:48 AM
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@56Jimmy , you are doing right by weighing your options on diagnostic equipment and asking questions.

Lucky for you (and many others), FTE'r BWST took some time and put together a Q&A for FORScan and FORScan Lite.

See the last link below.

FORScan
I took these documents from the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder.

FORScan is not only the top dog diagnostic tool for 7.3L owners, but is very useful to 6.7L owners as well. Top dog in the way of consumer grade equipment of course.

Below is a thread to the 6.7L forum involving FORScan as well.

Link: FORScan and As-Built Data

The full version of FORScan (free) is available to use on a PC laptop. The $5 FORScan Lite can be used on a tablet, smartphone or Android head unit stereo. FORScan or FSL will provide you access to everything and anything you need to diagnose or keep an eye on the vehicles.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 10:02 AM
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X2 on the forscan. Inexpensive, fairly simple to use, and plenty of tech support right here. Come on man everybody's doing it. I've mounted an inexpensive tablet to my dash and have it running all the time, and if I'm not mistaken Sous went all fancy and installed it on his aftermarket Android head unit.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 10:27 AM
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I did go a different route after using my smartphone and then tablet for a couple of years. I can be lazy at times and I like the look of a clean dashboard. I don't care for a phone mounted to my window or an arm that comes up from the seat mount to hold a tablet. Although, that is just my own thoughts on the accessories available.

I went with an Android head unit that is connected to the OBDII port via USB cable made by OBDLink (SX model). I can have FORScan Lite up and running in a couple of seconds with the push of two soft buttons. I ran FORScan Lite for a long time via a tablet that sat on the middle console or on the passenger seat. I didn't feel this was the most efficient method or the safest method of data logging.

Link: Android Head Unit Project...

This is what the display of the head unit looks like in my truck. FORScan Lite is the second button from the right, next to Google Maps.



This is what the head unit looks like in the dash with the power off.



This is only one of many options available to you and other FORScan users. One FTE'r recently installed a magnetic wireless charger in place of the space below his head unit and places his smartphone on magnetic charger. He then runs all of the applications (including FORScan) whenever he wants.

Others have phone mounts near or on the dash and some have windshield mounts.

The possibilities are endless and your path to success depends on what route you want to take to get there and your end goal.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the great ideas. I really like the Android head unit. Clean and multi-functional. I had already planned to buy and install Bluetooth unit anyway. Just been focused on getting the engine right first. When I bought it ran but intermittent white smoke and ran rough. Started by dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it out
Repaired the pickup foot and cleaned the the 2 fine screens
Removed the fuel filter bowl, cleaned it and replaced everything in it and on it because when I changed the filter the housing was really junked up inside.
Replaced all 8 injectors, glow plugs and valve cover gaskets
Previous owner provided receipt for hpop replacement and it was obvious that it was new when I had the fuel bowl off.
Anyway after all that I have not made a dent in the way it runs or the smoking. Took it to pick up some lumber and It just died on the highway,would not re-start. Had it towed home on a flatbed. I need a clear path instead of thrashing around wasting time and money. Thanks again for the advice. I’m sure you’ll be seeing my posts again when I have a spare minute to work on it
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 12:21 PM
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Sounds like you are on a good course for success thus far. Take a look at the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder I linked earlier if you have a few minutes. There is a wealth of information in there gathered over the past 20 years.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 08:12 PM
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Thanks Sous I plan to go through all of the stuff you mentioned as well as the head unit project. I can only read a short time
before my eyes go blurry or I fall asleep but I’m gonna get through it. I really want to learn to do the work myself. This is only my 2nd diesel and I rarely had the time to work on my first one myself. Usually went to the shop. This is a great bunch of guys that are always willing to help. Even a newby like me.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2021 | 10:24 PM
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Just died on the highway, hmmm? My go to for a stalled 7.3 is the IPR valve wiring or connector. It's pretty common for the wires to wear through and short out in the loom. I think it happens to all of us eventually. While you're in there check the tin nut is snug. Only needs an 1/8th to 1/4 turn past hand tight. Not a lot of things will just knock them out, pcm power loss, blown high pressure hose, below 1/4 tank w/ a bad fuel pick up. Even injector o-ring failure will give you a couple miles before she just dies. If ipr checks out have a look at #30 fuse in the interior panel. It powers the pcm and fuel bowl heater and if not already done unplug the fuel bowl heater. They're nothing but a problem waiting to happen.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2021 | 07:09 PM
  #9  
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Thanks for that info. I’m really slow getting back to you guys because I have a lot on my plate right now but don’t give up on me I am paying attention. I just can’t even work on it right now and it’s driving me nuts. Back on subject, I was thinking maybe CPS. it sounds odd when I crank it. I’ve had a timing chain break on a gasser before and it sounds a little like that. Cranks good but never tries to fire. Am I off base ?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2021 | 09:05 PM
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Take your time, we will be here waiting when you are able to respond.

Since you have a 2000, you should be able to see the tachometer move slightly while cranking in order to quickly check for proper function of the CPS. The "newer" 7.3L PSD's do not have this ability and must use a scan tool like FORScan.

The RPM only goes up to ~250 while cranking gthe starter if memory serves me right, but I am not sure as I haven't looked in quite a while.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 07:30 AM
  #11  
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That’s also good info. I ordered a new Ford CPS yesterday because it was not expensive. Now I can’t wait to get home and check the tach. I just checked the price on the IPR. I hope it’s the cam sensor. I hope to have time tonight to order my stuff to set up my diagnostics. I’ve decided to go with the head unit. I have an I-pad that I could use but I’m thinking that’s just an excuse for someone to knock the window out. I’ll let y’all know what I find
 
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 07:35 AM
  #12  
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Just had another thought on the IPR. Is it best to buy genuine Ford or is aftermarket ok?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 07:38 AM
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Ford/Motorcraft or International is going to be your go to for sensors. Aftermarket is always hit or miss.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 07:52 AM
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The IPR valves don't typically fail very often, and I don't think I've ever heard of one have a sudden catastrophic failure. They are a simple little needle valve controlled by a solenoid. They can get gunked up over time and need cleaning, but other than the solenoid there's not much to fail. While you're waiting for your parts and new toys to arrive you might get some of the basics out of the way. Confirm the fuses are all good w/ a multimeter, check the PCM, IDM, and fuel pump relays have power in and out when key is on. A fuel pressure test using the fuel bowl drain valve as your test port is a simple set-up and gives some vital info. Wiring is also a big % of problems we have also, it's the price we pay for enjoying a "classic". Basically every connector is a potential culprit starting with the 42 pin where it rubs the drivers valve cover.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2021 | 07:59 AM
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Just remembered, here are a couple videos on cleaning the IPR valve I've found useful in the past.


and

 
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