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Yeah, i dont know what im doing. So i guesssed some and shot video. Couldnt figure out a way to load the clip, so. Youtube link it is.
https://youtu.be/B-_ZQbt_hWs
This is the only result of the key on, engine running, on demand self test.
start up this morning, about 42 degrees, heater plugged in, took 4 looong cranks. Cloud of light grey/white smoke, that was present less than 30 seconds.
Since this actually got started with questions about the glow plugs.....
lamp time never came on, for whatever reason. The other two glow plug monitors, read as the picture states. now, if i understand correctly, this still doesnt mean the relay or glowplugs themselves are good, just that the truck is calling for, amd semding power for that purpose?
The GEM (B - DTC's) are pretty self explanatory. Although, the portions of the manual describing those areas that need attention can be uploaded as well.
The GP PID's you are monitoring may be for a GPCM (Glow Plug Control Module), which you don't have in a F-250. Change your measurements from kpa to PSI on things like the EBP sensor to make them easier to read. MAP, BARO and EBP should be within .5 PSI of each other on a cold engine with the engine off, but the ignition on.
Hurts my head reading all the lines that say... "replace pcm, rerun diagnostics"
That is worst case scenario and 99% of the time the issue can be resolved another way. Keep in mind, these pinpoint tests were developed for a technician at a dealership that had no cost involved with the parts and a surplus of anything they wanted or needed.
We tend to work our way through the tests and sometimes have to skip around a bit due to specialized equipment that is not available or testing procedures we cannot accomplish.
These are merely an aid to point us in the right direction in an effort to not throw parts at it or be caught in an internet lore storm of misinformation.
I tested the hot lead to my glow plug relay, 13.1 volts, vehicle off. Turned on the key, and tested the opposing side, got, 11.8 volts. Then i did injector test. Truck hasnt been on since lunch, yesterday. Lost the pic i took, somehow....
Got a 1298 code
Having never done a buzz test before.... @Sous@SkySkiJason@Bitterroot Diesel is that a normal trouble code to get from that test, just because? Since i didnt get that code on the general diagnostic?
Having never done a buzz test before.... @Sous@SkySkiJason@Bitterroot Diesel is that a normal trouble code to get from that test, just because? Since i didnt get that code on the general diagnostic?
Next time truck doesn’t start after waiting 1-1.5 minutes for GP’s - jump the big terminals on the GP relay for 30-45 secs and try to start again (jump in and rotate ignition to ‘start’ without much delay.) We can see voltage across the relay sometimes but not get enough amperage to get the job done.
That code can come from a few things, including low voltage. Clear it and make sure batteries are well charged prior to repeating test.
Alright. 12.99 driver battery, 12.98 passenger battery, 12.96 at the glow plug relay. Let it go, 90 seconds or so, tried to start, stumble, stumble, no catch, mild start up stink, but no smoke. Jumpered the GPR until it made a little buzzing sound, approx 45/50 seconds. Disconnected jumper, hopped in, key on... long, stumbling, coughing, did start.... white smoke for, less than 20 seconds. Heater has been plugged in, ambient temp, 59 degrees. Injector code not present on FORScan test while running, immediately post startup.
In other things. I noticed a crack in one of the cooler boots, so im sure i need to replace the set of those.
Sounds like GP’s are likely your problem - and/or injectors.
Check your soft aluminum CAC pipes for damage/holes. There are a couple of places that wire loom and other things tend to rub holes. If not rubbed through, clean pipes and add silver/metallic duct tape to protect them. @Sous has a good fix for the PS pressure hose that can cause damage depending on how it is installed. The later CAC pipes are aluminized steel and hold up much better.
You split the underside and the zip tie the boot to the sharp 90° sharp high pressure fitting that sometimes contacts the tube. I also had some CAC boot material left over from the T4 install. So I wrapped the contact point of the CAC tube with about an inch if boot material.
The goal is to create a cushion of sorts if/when the CAC tube contacts the sharp edges of the fitting.
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