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Ok. It appears, someone in the past decided that just crushing the intercooler was the answer....
So... yay...
In further questions... starting the truck today, i had the hood open, and during... the "warm up" crank cycle, i noticed white smoke coming up from the engine. Stopped cranking, went around and looked. Passenger rear of the engine seemed to be the source.
im not sure where it cam from, beyond that, so i took a couole pics, downpipes, etc. Hoping an anamoly might stand out to someone, the only thing im reasonably confident of, is that the only smoke and such i should see, shiuld be appearing 20 feet 'ish' to the rear.... Whats the 'hole' on top of the turbo? I videoed with my phone, but shadows kept me from seeing anything except a split ring in it. Drivers side Passenger side
Gonna load up some firewood, and head to okc tonight, probably pulling a small trailer. Diagnostically, could someone give me a list of things to monitor, and subsequesntly post here, from FORScan?
Although, not all of those are mandatory or even necessary for everyone. They are just the "usual suspects" and you should adjust the list as you see fit.
If you are planning to log any data, the top 4 PID's are fairly "critical" to the overall picture.
Warmed up, had been driven, parked. Driving, level. Driving, level, very slight incline. Driving, level, very slight incline. x2 shot. Pulling a hill pic 1 Pulling a hill pic 2 Pulling a hil pic 3
Ok, these are with a load of firewood in the bed, and dragging a 12 foot van trailer, with a piano in it. So, enough load to make it work, but not heavy, mostly wind load rather than dead weight. I noticed, that even though the fuel needle was correct, the monitor always read zero. Not sure why that would be.
i did change from metric to imperial... but not everything went to psi... for some reason. I did close and restart forscan after i changed settings, and i dumped my info list, and rebuilt it completely.
i readily admit i dont know what most of this means, as far as good, bad, or meh, but it feels pretty nice to finally be able to access such a wide swath of data.
Jason, i wondered about the up pipes, since ive read enough on here to assume those connections are beyond shot. I will attempt to get a look in the engine bay during first cranking tomorrow, to see if i can confirm that.
Start up this morning was easy... easiest in months. Didnt get it parked until late last night, so it was not cooled all the way. Had just a haze of smoke behind the engine. I priced up pipes.... now i need to price heat wrap, because that ceramic coating cost made me cringe. Gonna start getting parts together. Looks like up pipes. Glow plugs, and boots, for right now at least.
Kdz5,
i dont have much to offer except that you can use a multi meter to check your glow plugs. Ive done this as pm and during a time crunch ive done the 4 under the offending valve cover. And i did the other 4... well still havent.
You do have to disconnect the 9pin connector on the valve cover and the far left 2 large pins and far right 2 large pins are one point for your meter leads and the ground is a shiny bolt head. Iirc you are looking for 2ohms or less on a good glow plug.
In reference to post #15 where I provided details of the hose/cap protective cover for the power steering line, below is the details from Y2KW57 that he just posted in another thread.
I always try to give credit where credit is due, even if the thread is slowly retreating to the depths of the forum pages.
Ok, im supposed to be getting a box from clay on tuesday, with bellowed up pipes, new boots, and a hydra tuner. Been buying glow plugs a couple at a time from auto zone.
Been having more and more trouble starting.... tested batteries thursday, and both tested as bad. Cant complain, got almost 4 years from 60$ rebuild units... replaced with 850cca/1000ca batteries. Started consiberably easier friday morning. Not sure that is the main fix i needed, but it feels nice to know its checked off the problem list
Anything i should be specifically checking, while im replacing the up pipes, boots, and putting in new plugs?
Looking at your snap shots, something stands out to me. First one shows an ECT of 196 (I think). The last few though, show a negative ECT, -166 and -172. Am I missing some sort of Forescan quirk that would cause this? If you are getting a -166 coolant temp fed to the computer, there is no telling what all problems you will be having!
Looking at your snap shots, something stands out to me. First one shows an ECT of 196 (I think). The last few though, show a negative ECT, -166 and -172. Am I missing some sort of Forescan quirk that would cause this? If you are getting a -166 coolant temp fed to the computer, there is no telling what all problems you will be having!
Oh... well thats interesting... the 154 is the only positive temp, all the others are reading negative. I do know, the dash needle runs in normal ranges, and if it was getting megative temps, it should be bottomed out, but thats odd. Maybe someone will come along, that can explain it.
ECT PID is always crazy on AT trucks, since there is no ECT sensor reporting to the PCM. Manual trucks do have ECT sensor to the PCM, for whatever reason, so the ECT PID only works for MT trucks. AT truck PCMs use oil temp info to know engine temp. Dash gauge runs to a simple sensor on the HPOP reservoir, nothing to do with PCM, very old school and reliable.
MAP is showing zero, which is a concern. Check the wire to it and if the hose is in good shape and connects to the spider. MAP sensor is circled. Also please log psi PID not voltage.
As a test skip cycling the key on and jump the big lugs on the GPR as SSJ suggested. Use a chonky screwdriver and be careful, lots of amps there. If that helps starting the GPR is bad.
Make sure the GPs you are buying are good ones. Look to see if it says Beru on the plug. No Autolites!
Looks like you have an early 99. Do you have the correct up pipes coming?
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