Frame off rebuild. 94 F150 4x4 E4od 302.
Assemble everything all harnesses in. Brand new battery installed. Engine not running yet. Distributor is not in yet. Everything else is ready to roll.
All lights work. Headlamps, park, running lights, brake, reverse etc dash works, blower motor works, radio works. I can bump the starter with the ignition cylinder. Engine cranks. 4 ways work.
Wipers not working. Multi function switch on column results in odd clicking in the wiper control module. Troubleshoot the wiper module by trying to jump the module and test wiper motor on full power. Doesn't work. No wipers.
Suddenly NO external lights are working now. None. Dash comes on lit up, dimmer switch works on dash. Blower motor still runs, radio is good.
Ignition also wont bump the starter anymore.
I'm getting voltage at the bulb sockets. No bulbs light up.
Battery is at 12.3 volts still. Check all fuses in cab and under hood. Nothing blown. Voltage at back of dimmer switch harness confirmed. Continuity on park lamp circuit on the harness. No continuity on the headlamp circuit on the harness. Jump the park lamp circuit on the harness, dash bulb comes on but NO external bulbs. Jump the headlamp circuit, nothing.
I did notice that relay 1 under the hood is clicking now when I pull the dimmer switch out to turn on the lights. Swapped the relay with one of the other ones. Relay in position 1 clicks when switch is activated. Relay 1 is getting almost 12 volts on each of the 4 pin holes. If I leave the dimmer switch IN/off, and rotate the dimmer, relay 1 makes this weird constant creaking noise.

Starter relay still reading 12v, starter terminals still reading 12v......

NOT trying to start it. Just making sure all the electrical functions work before dropping in distributor and breaking in new engine etc.

I am ****ing stumped here boys. I have the chassis wiring diagram. It looks like ALL lights run through the multi function switch. Is it possible it's totally fried and that's causing this? I dont understand how I'm getting voltage at the external bulb sockets but NOTHING is lighting up. Or that jumping the dimmer switch with confirmed voltage on the headlamp and park lamp circuits is not doing anything.

 

I’d say you let the smoke out of something when sending direct power to the wiper module. Since nothing works anymore, it could be the the ignition switch but that just a guess.

I don’t know what having functional marker lights and wipers has to do with installing the distributor but ok. If the gauges worked to monitor the engine then fire it up.

 

Nothing aside from just to state where I'm at in the build to illustrate the situation.

Is there something/anything on the wiper control module circuit that could have burnt out and resulted in this? The only thing I can see that may have fried is the multi function switch in the column that controls power to it.
is there a hidden relay or breaker in the multi function switch that could have fried and ****ed up the ignition/external light harness complete?

 

You say ignition won't bump starter over anymore. I would take something metal and bridge the two large posts on the fender mounted solenoid to see if the the starter will then bump the engine over. Just as a troubleshooting measure. Got to go backwards and start somewhere.

 

I would guess your grounds are not complete, or bad ground connection(s).
And/or bad power connections.
​​​​​​​You can have voltage, but as soon as you put a load on it, no current.

 

Hey guys, just wanted to follow up with this.
I solved it!
After looking at the wiring schematic and a more detailed one of the ignition cylinder contacts. I noticed literally everything on external light harness runs through the MFS (multi function switch).
Which is ridiculous because the headlamp dimmer switch actually controls the on off function of these features. They still share common connection through the MFS.....
Also the ignition switch power to the starter relay and starter......
I started probing the MFS and found some dead circuits for continuity (suspected worn or damaged internals causing a break or bad ground). I found a spare at the local pick and pull and plugged it in.
Bam. Problem ****ing solved.....
I've got a brand new Motorcraft one on the way. I can't believe how much ****ery is routed through this high wear, high use plastic component.
Thanks for the advice guys!

 

What a cluster, after getting it together, glad you go it, and thanks for update, now to find a MFS, by Ford, how many miles was on yours? I guess it depends where you live and how many turns using MSF, will determine wear?

p.s. O...and Murphy's Law!

 

lol Right!?
I get the turn indicators, high beams running through the MFS as a common point...but why brake lights, DRL, Reverse....and Ignition to relay/starter?! Lol

I tore it apart as it was just rolling 350k km.
Only because my brake lines crumbled lol
It was still starting up and running fine though. They dont make them like that anymore.
Kind of wish I had gone manual instead of rebuilding the E4OD.
Maybe next year down!
I'm hoping to be doing first run up and break in before X Mas!