Welcome to the mad house... You are in good company!

There is light at the end of the tunnel though. I am comfortable with using our truck to tow heavy cross country. We have, do and will again too! Keep chipping away at the things that need to be done, then do the things you want to do and then you will find a "happy place" where you can just get in, start it and drive!

 

New cups are needed to run ELC? First I've heard that, but I haven't made the switch yet either.

You are definitely in like company. I too am traipsing carefully around the edge of that hole. Teetering on the edge of what's needed and f*** it. Right now I'm leaning more towards the f*** it, lets jump down the rabbit hole.

I know it's not going to make sense to most, but right now I'd rather throw a bunch of parts at it than wait until I have time to test everything. We've already established that my truck is in good nick, just a little minor stuff to do. Sounds like mostly charging system, so cleaning and checking grounds. I'll probably throw some new battery cables at it as well. I've also got new CAC boots to install and some new o-rings for CCV. While I'm in there I'll probably do a bunch more in interest of time. New UVCH, harness, and GPs. I'll probably install new o-rings on the injectors while I'm under there, can also get a better idea of their condition while I'm at it. New up-pipes even though mine don't appear to be leaking yet. Might do stuff that isn't necessary, might not do stuff that is. At current I've got more money than time to work on it. <not a lot of money, just speaking relatively> So I'd rather take it apart once and do a bunch, than find out I didn't fix something and wait until I have time to do it again. I don't necessarily consider it a waste either, since it is at the 200K mark I feel fine considering it to be preventative maintenance.

IMO the BG products are a scam. They might actually do some of what they claim, I honestly can't say otherwise, but the whole program is wrong. When I bought my 2010 Kia the manufacturer recommended service intervals were 7500 mile oil change. Now I know usually you will want to change a little more often depending on your driving habits, but mine are what would be considered normal by the manufacturer. I still planned and expected to do my changes early at the dealer every 5000 miles. Well they started trying to push me into 3000 mile intervals. Then a year into ownership, so around 15k miles, they started pushing the additional BG services. Trying to understand why I finally found a tech to explain, apparently it's part of the contract with the BG chemical company. The shop gets their chemicals at a very steep discount from the company, but in return they have to aggressively hawk all the other products and recommended services. The recommended 3000 mile intervals they were trying to push me into, that was recommended by BG chemical company, not the car manufacturer. Same for the 15k mile throttle body or injector cleaning service. At least that's the story I got. I'm not sure if they just saw me in there enough or made a note in the system, but eventually they stopped offering all the additional services and just gave me what I asked for.

 

The E99 engines need to reseal their injector cups in order to run ELC. Unless of course someone has been in there to update the sealant.

 

Oh.... i made a mistake... i started reading @Bitterroot Diesel injector info thread.... i should not have done that..... one, now my head hurts, two... i haz questions... and three, @SkySkiJason had to go point out how fun these trucks can be, hopped up on rwhp..... dang it. Now i want to tinker with stuff....

 

Ah, I see. Incompatibility between the sealant and ELC on the E99. With a 2000 it isn't something I'd need to worry about. Glad to hear it. Not going to ELC at this time since the truck came with stuff for a coolant change with the regular coolant. Good information for future though.

 

LOL! I did the same thing... with the same result.

I'm going to tackle it again during my break from school.

 

I wouldn't mess with the cups , just because the coolant compatibility...
IF them ain't leaking.

 

Snake oil...,.,

Your cold start issues are typical of tired injectors. If your GP relay has been replaced and you ohm out your GP’s and find they are ok - it’s time for injectors. Replacing ‘one injector’ is a silly practice IMHO and just insures more trips to the mechanic.

I’m definitely guilty of promoting more RWHP from time to time. But, I still think 160/30 is probably the best injector for most people. Capable of nearly 2x stock HP, but drives like stock of you don’t dig the spurs in and crack the whip.

 

@T-wood @Sous @SkySkiJason Um... well, no sparks, and no difference noticed when i screwdrivered the gpr.... however, i have a question... is it normal to not have an AIH? Because, i no got one. 🤷

Im gonna pull codes here in a bit... one thing i know for sure, is if i want to realy get this truck happy, i need to get everything right/tight, or my problems will never be out of sight....

 

No AIH on E99.

 

Follow the link in post #14 in order to check for proper operation of the glow plugs now. There are a few videos out there too if you are someone who learns by seeing the process done.

Also, if you have a multimeter, check the big post on the GPR that is supposed to be hot all the time just to be sure it has 12v power to it.

We will get you sorted and hopefully find the fella that stole your AIH... J/K...

 

thanks sir, i figured that was probably the case, but hey, better to be sure.

I talked with matt BRD today, he let me ask injectors for dummies type questions, looks like a set of 160/30s are in the old girls future. Gotta get everything squared up, to the best of my ability, assuming i dont hit a critical failure that forces me to take specific action.

I used to drive this truck in and after highschool, and i know its capable of much better performance than ive gotten since i owned it. We towed tandem trailers, easily over 12k and rarely ever below 60. I just never made the connection to rough starts, less power, etc... to the injectors being tired. Kind of a facepalm event, honestly.

 

perfect description!

He said no sparks when jumping. I feel it’s imperative to confirm always on voltage at the GPR. Otherwise he could be chasing his tail. Seems like we saw this recently with someone. Fusible link in the hot wire blown?

 

I agree with the statement above 100%. When we are troubleshooting these old trucks, sparks are an indication that there is current present, but is not a good indication of what sort of amperage. Also, if no sparks are present, that doesn't mean no current is present.

I believe he found the results of the GPR testing and posted them in another thread, but I could be wrong on that.

Another FTE'r did blow the fused links a couple months back. He was wiring in a new alternator and accidentally shorted the B+ lug to the case of the alternator. The fused links near the starter relay did their job and sacrificed themselves in order to not cause a fire or destroy sensitive electronics.

All is well with that FTE'r now too though!

 

Just for detail/information. The power wire to alternator is also the power for AIH and GP relays. Those things branch off the same wire.