First Excursion Suspension Mods
Can anyone comment on whether your average add-a-leaf aftermarket suspension lift kit from, say, Zone or BDS, will make the Ex a more confident ride? Or will it simply elevate the Ex's current issues four inches higher off the ground?
I have corresponded a tidbit with Cary Towery who is known for his V-Code/B-Code Spring mod parts kits; obviously he thinks that's the way to go, but back of the envelope, looks more expensive. Can anyone compare the two schools of thought having tried both? Also happy to hear from engineers and know-it-all truck nuts.
Thanks for having me, and thanks for sharing insight on here; this place seems nice.
I noticed the wandering
this is typicall caused by worn out steering and suspension that leads to a lack of caster.
the squishy ride, etc
squisy ride is Shocks and Tire pressure
, I have learned about the V-Code/B-Code spring swap.
these were how we did it in the early days using junk yard parts, much better springs for your 4" lift are available today.
What I'm looking to achieve is elminating the soft, imprecise ride on the road and feel confident in mild offroad situations.
as stated the soft ride is your worn out shocks and or tires and tire pressure, impressise ride is poor alignment settings and tires/tire pressure
Can anyone comment on whether your average add-a-leaf aftermarket suspension lift kit from, say, Zone or BDS, will make the Ex a more confident ride?
no, add a leaf simply increases the spring rate. raising the center of gravity by ":lifting" a vehicle always reduces stability.
Or will it simply elevate the Ex's current issues four inches higher off the ground?
Bingo, plus you have added the issue of more spring rate than required.
I have corresponded a tidbit with Cary Towery who is known for his V-Code/B-Code Spring mod parts kits; obviously he thinks that's the way to go, but back of the envelope, looks more expensive. Can anyone compare the two schools of thought having tried both? Also happy to hear from engineers and know-it-all truck nuts.
Vcode/Bcode was a great junk yard way to get it done back in the day but is not only the wrong spring design being a 2 stage spring but also far to high a spring rate.
Procomp 22210/22415 is a better setup for all the reason discussed ad nasuem in many threads
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you have a lot going on so I will try to answer each above in red
lets look at your current setup.
1. measure from the center of hub straight up to the ottom of your fender arch.
post all 4 of those dimensions and I can give you an aproximation of your suspensions condition and possible cause of wander.
2. next, cheack and post each tires pressure along with your tires size.
3. post a pic of your front shock and bump stop on both the driver and passanger side.
you have a lot going on so I will try to answer each above in red
lets look at your current setup.
1. measure from the center of hub straight up to the ottom of your fender arch.
post all 4 of those dimensions and I can give you an aproximation of your suspensions condition and possible cause of wander.
2. next, cheack and post each tires pressure along with your tires size.
3. post a pic of your front shock and bump stop on both the driver and passanger side.
And, holy schnikes, the info about Procomp springs is awesome. Didn't know what to search for I guess. I spent some time reading posts on the ProComp situation, and I'd much rather do that than send off for some non-stock "kit" or be hunting down old SD springs at the junkyard. Really helpful info.
While I'm at it, I've never worked on a suspension before. Doing the alternator and starter on my Econoline is about as deep as I've gone. Is installing new leafs the kind of thing a hack like me could try out?
Thanks again; this info is much appreciated.
And, holy schnikes, the info about Procomp springs is awesome. Didn't know what to search for I guess. I spent some time reading posts on the ProComp situation, and I'd much rather do that than send off for some non-stock "kit" or be hunting down old SD springs at the junkyard. Really helpful info.
While I'm at it, I've never worked on a suspension before. Doing the alternator and starter on my Econoline is about as deep as I've gone. Is installing new leafs the kind of thing a hack like me could try out?
Thanks again; this info is much appreciated.
a lot of us have to cut the old mount bolts out of the shackles, so you'll need a recip saw and a long carbide blade to snake in and zip them off. sometimes you have to cut the U-bolts off as well.
3 ton floor jack
1/2” air tools
1/2” hand tools
ability to torque to 425 foot pounds
3 foot pry bar
Heavy duty ratchet straps
if yours is rusty you are going to need a whole can of whoopass
you are dealing with 600 pound axles and 100 pound springs that need to be convinced into place.
as a newb diy project ? Its a chore
once taken apart it’s not something you can easily bailout on so be sure you are ready.
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3 ton floor jack
1/2” air tools
1/2” hand tools
ability to torque to 425 foot pounds
3 foot pry bar
Heavy duty ratchet straps
if yours is rusty you are going to need a whole can of whoopass
you are dealing with 600 pound axles and 100 pound springs that need to be convinced into place.
as a newb diy project ? Its a chore
once taken apart it’s not something you can easily bailout on so be sure you are ready.
These recip blades and a can of wd-40 or pb blaster, or a spray bottle of water to keep the blade cool. if it heats up too much, the teeth start popping off and it's useless.
just be attentive to the angle and direction of the blade to make sure that you are ONLY cutting the bolt, and not the frame horn.
I was at least able to spin everything else off with my impact gun







