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I like the looks of this wood Luke...would like to know more about what you have under it. I still plan on using the edge cut Brazilian cherry that I got from you and Mark so many years ago...I have been mulling over various ways to use underlayment to mount it and keep it somewhat weather resistant. My plan is to seal the wood to keep it from absorbing moisture and thus eliminate the swelling issue.
I will take some photo's of the raised floor I created under it to hide the suspension. I added to the sides and changed the bed shape entirely to match the cab as well.
I like the looks of this wood Luke...would like to know more about what you have under it. I still plan on using the edge cut Brazilian cherry that I got from you and Mark so many years ago...I have been mulling over various ways to use underlayment to mount it and keep it somewhat weather resistant. My plan is to seal the wood to keep it from absorbing moisture and thus eliminate the swelling issue.
Here is a photo of the supports that I added to raise the bed up to clear the suspension. I am considering the best way to make this area less prone to moisture from the underside. Potentially even using something like a ABS and sealing to the bed before installing the wood above it.
I am at about the same spot in my bed floor...bracing in place, got the wood, just need a good plan on mounting the wood and making it waterproof.
My plan was to place 1 bolt in each piece through the support with a hidden rubber grommet around the threads to allow a little expansion. The waterproofing is the dilemma at this point. I will seal all 4 edges of the wood for sure but considering how to block the water splash from below using something that I can seal and needs no expansion. ABS or another plastic seems it would be best but I am open to ideas.
I am at about the same spot in my bed floor...bracing in place, got the wood, just need a good plan on mounting the wood and making it waterproof.
I think I have settled on this
FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic)
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I am sure this is not most of your preference but I am sharing anyway because it is what I have designed for the truck that I wanted.
This was the concept I started with and I liked the look. I did make the back of the fender the same width as the front of the fender in the final.
Here is before the Side Sheet Metal and progress on the Tail Gate I am creating. Still 100's of tack welds left and at least a day of grinding left. The Ford F-100 Cut Out is going to be an LED Light Box when finished.
This is the Truck name banner back from powder coating representing the color scheme of the whole truck
A few days ago I got one side of my Truck bed sheet metal installed. It is far from ready to paint but I sprayed some rattle can Primer over it until I finish the other side to avoid surface rust. I will have to do body work to the rail and sides of course but this is step 3 in the process.
Today I got the 2nd side installed using what I had learned on the other side and it was much easier and will need less body work.
I am putting at least 2 hrs a day into completing my truck until it is at least drivable.
A Major positive side of building the bed is that it will add a good deal of weight to the Rear so I can use some of that 460 Big Block Torque without Burning my Tires Up.
I also put a little more work into my Front Grille Today. This is Raw Metal so the reflection is weird but the concept of how the grille will look at night minus the headlights. It can be any color or multiple at any given time. Of course it can do Knight Rider and other Patterns as well if you like that.
Making sure the Wood has enough Spacing in the Finished Truck Bed
Finally got the Bed 90% Completed and Mounted Back on the Truck. Still may adjust how it sits and change the rake of the Truck to the way it looks best. Front end is only 9" off the Ground and probably should be about 12" up
Primed to Protect the Metal Until Final Body Work and Paint can be completed.
After a lot of work I have completely rebuilt my Rear Suspension and moved my Gas Tank so that I will be able to fill my tank behind my flip down license plate instead of risking getting gasoline all over my European Oak Wood Bed.
I used larger C Notches and the following kits:
QA1 DS501-12110 Rear Coil-Over Conversion Kit Single Adjustable (2) Single Adjustable Proma Star Shocks (2) Springs Mounting
Firestone Ride-Rite Electric Level Command II System 2158 and Air Bags
Now I absolutely need to make a protective but stylish Skid plate to go around the Gas Tank. The Transmission is being completely rebuilt and should have it back in a week.
Good Lord it takes forever to get anything done in the Auto Industry. I just got my Transmission back that I gave them in December. Soon I will be able to move her around without the help of a friend.
Finished up the Transmission install and Dual Exhaust install. Just need to install and adjust the kick down cable then get the full 13 Qts of fluid in her due to the trans cooler and test it out.
Making Progress again. The Gas Tank Skid Plate should be back from Powder Coating by Friday.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
