When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, so I finally got around to installing the lift on my '79 F250. Upon getting the wheels on and lowered to the ground, I notice both front tires have positive camber, with the front drivers side more prominent. I'm not sure of the prior history of this truck since I basically bought it and drove it straight home to tear the thing completely down, which was a year ago.
Looking at the attached picture is hard to see the camber, yet if you look at the rear tire, which used to be on the driver's front, it is apparent my eyes aren't playing tricks. Am I right in saying the camber can't be adjusted? Eccentric sleeves?
Until you have all the weight on her and you've cycled the suspension a few times you won't know where she is going to end up.
Put in your year, make, and model at moog for available alignment offerings.
Even with mine being a straight axle? I hope that's the case
“TMC's target value is less than ¼ degree either side. You want to shoot for that. The camber angle is not adjustable. It is machined into both the axle beam and the knuckle. If you find that an axle beam is out of camber specs, you need to get us involved. In my 20 years with this company I've replaced three axle beams. Bending of axle beams is not recommended by axle manufacturers and will void the axle warranty.”
That wear on the rear "used to be front" tire could be related to too much toe in too. There are ways to adjust as you've mentioned, on a solid axle, caster will affect it too, then between caster and toe, camber can be affected. Lean the axle backwards at the top with more caster, and toe starts affecting camber.
Weight shouldn't change it enough to amount to anything. if it does you have a problem.
Yes it can be adjusted you can get sleeves for the top ball joint to correct it. there are articles and videos on it just look up Dana 44 camber adjustment.
I assume your ball joints are good, obviously if they're toast you won't know what you have until they're replaced.
Weight shouldn't change it enough to amount to anything. if it does you have a problem.
Yes it can be adjusted you can get sleeves for the top ball joint to correct it. there are articles and videos on it just look up Dana 44 camber adjustment.
I assume your ball joints are good, obviously if they're toast you won't know what you have until they're replaced.
The ball joint's are new. Maybe I'm just being overly observant and there really isn't anything wrong. Guess what worries me the most is I noticed it, and then shortly after my 12 year old came home and asked why the tire is tipped out.
I agree with run it and see how you fare after assembly. Also for reference the Dana 44 front axle your running is the 3.00" OD x 1/2" wall axle tube which in real life terms is hard to bend although I have seen it done It's highly unlikely and there would be other clear signs of abuse.
Hey Bvretn,
Camber on these shouldn't be a problem. After you complete your engine install check it to see how much pos camber you have.
Then purchase the proper tapered shims which go directly behind the spindle.
The shims are tapered and can be positioned as required. Google Dana 44 Camber shims. Even Bronco Graveyard carries them..
77 & 79 probably knows much more about this than any of us. (hopefully he will chime in here).
I attached a picture so you have an idea of what they look like.
The picture is a #4.
As for abuse, My experience with front straight axles is that most abuse comes from guys trying to jump these old trucks and you actually end up with NEG camber.
BTW,,, I like the rear disc brake setup. I would like to know more about what and where they came from.
Just my .02 worth on this matter
The shims were the old school solution and they're better than nothing. but this guy shows how to do the bushings , this is the best and how it's done on new pickups like the Super Duty today.
The ball joint's are new. Maybe I'm just being overly observant and there really isn't anything wrong. Guess what worries me the most is I noticed it, and then shortly after my 12 year old came home and asked why the tire is tipped out.
Hard to judge by the photo, but how level is the concrete floor? I don't see it so obvious here, but I know how worrysome it get's once it gets in your head. I think what you have is fine myself ... not true vertical, but it's not supposed to be either.
Have you a framing square? Have you a long level and plumb bob? Long level is to check floor left to right, plumb bob to hang against the tire. Allow for tire bulge, measure to rim edges with bob line only as bob hangs free. Or if floor is level, level can be stood up against tire bulge and with level bubble, measure rim to level at top and bottom rim. Check both sides, should be some positive camber in both fronts.
You do know that some positive camber is designed into it, the object is to have the imaginary line drawn through the ball joints intersect the roadway at or near the center of the tire ... so they lean the wheel a little, lean the ball joint line more. Positive camber of the tire while the line through the ball joints is negative, gives less kick back or pull as the tire encounters roadway obstructions like rocks, bricks, bumps, pot holes, etc. Positive camber also places more load on the inner most wheel bearing nearest the root of the spindle. Negative camber is where the tire leans in at top. What does the passenger side look like that looks so different? Here's just a picture of my meaning.