So the other day truck stopped moving in drive. Took it to the shop I usually deal with and they said the transmission was done. They gave me a quote of 5200 for a reman from ford, a new trans cooler, the flush and filter plus labor. Seems high to me. What is the average price for this now a days. Thanks for the info.

 

That is a fair price for parts plus labor.

 

Today, in line.

 

Do the rear main seal, when you are in there

 

the english have a fitting saying:

"you get what you pay for it"


In my workshop hanging this picture:

 

Sounds good, thanks for the info. Not looking for cheaper, just wondering what the going round about price was for that kind of work. I've normally done all the work on this truck my self. But at this time don't have the space for this kind of job.

 

my ford reman lasted 3 yrs 3 months and less than 15,ooo miles , i drive like an old lady it was just junk

 

Whatever is going on at Ford Motorcraft, it ain't good.

 

I had very good luck with my Ford reman transmission.

 

Just had my transmission rebuilt at a highly reputable shop near where we live, $4800.00 and change included upgraded torque converter with billet face plate, upgraded coast clutch and planetary's and a shift kit. It's a fair price.

 

$5200--->Total rip off (WTFO) --- these (incredibly well designed) 5Rs are not as complicated as the tranny shops would make you believe. They think they have the corner on this market, but DIYs can Git R Done too.

I'd pull it, do the rear seal as Hartwig recommended (be careful on the wear ring (if provided) / seal kit you buy) and always use a seal remover/wear ring remover, installer (factory) , buy a rebuild kit (example below), replace the temp sensor, add a Sonnax (oversized) manual valve (originals wear out easily/frequently), do the upgrade to the pan/filter and (housekeeping) replace the EPC Solenoid (don't go with the higher pressure, use stock), add a Transgo shift kit (to control runaway pressure) and that thing will go 200,000 miles easy. Also, get a ref document from ATSG or other source and be "surgery room" clean / organized during tear down, inspection and rebuild. Invest in some good snap ring pliers / long screw drivers (I use Knipex and Green Snap Ons), a pump puller and tap into the brain trust here (Mark Kovalsky, Jack, etc). Other sources provide great ref (I know Gary, trade emails and he's tops)--


Baby it on startup with lubricants.............go slow in the turns.

For less than $1000 in parts (may be higher if during inspection you see hard parts that need replacement), tools, you can do this and be proud as hell when the project's finished. Invest the savings in your house.

https://www.oregonperformancetransmi...5R110W-RB.html

 

How much do those specialty tools and transmission holder cost? How does a DIY guy get the machine work done? There’s more to rebuilding a 5R110W transmission than just the things you mentioned. I thought about attempting a full rebuild but did not feel confident I’d know what to look for while tearing it down and assembling. If it were that easy everyone would be doing it.

 

Very few specialty tools -- other than the Rotunda/Moto for the rear seal. He'll need a trans jack (cheap as hell at Harbor Freight), no special stands, and can set the thing on its *** during rebuild:

 

Hiram's videos are good.

The parts if nothing is broken runs about $750, I have it saved. The big thing is cleanliness. I'v done C4s, not that hard as 1990 says.

Thanks for adding those other videos 1990.


But I still disagree with adding a ground between the chassis and trans case since it's mentioned. That will provide a path as the ground connection on the block degrades.

 

Can you please explain that? I can't imagine that additional ground points on the trans can cause problems.