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Hi guys.
Can water in your diesel fuel cause the hpop to not build proper pressure?
I have a early 04 f350 6.0 truck. Two years ago (about 3000 miles or so) I had a shop replace the hpop and supply tube that was cracked causing a "no start hot" condition. Problem solved. Last week, when I was filling up the truck, the gas station pump began running very slow and when I pulled the nozzle out of the truck, the clear liquid that was coming out of it looked like water. I stopped fueling and went to another station to continue. I figured that I put in three or four gallons of water. I filled the tank the rest of the way (about 30 gallons) with known good diesel. I planned on draining the tank the following week. It ran well for the next three or four days until it quit while I was driving. While I was trying to accelerate the engine dropped to idle, ran for about 200 yards then quit. OK, water in fuel I surmised. But, here is the strange part.
Could water in the fuel cause this? Can the computer in the truck sense water in the fuel and prevent the engine from trying to start?
Or is it more likely that my 2 year old HPOP has failed again?
I spent $2500 two years ago and I hate to have to do that every few years. I did pull the IPR out and check it. The screen is intact with no obvious issues but I didnt check it with an ohm meter.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks guys
Last edited by mpirate; Oct 3, 2021 at 02:46 PM.
Reason: spacing
If I confirmed that I had pumped water into the fuel tank, I would have had the truck towed without starting, followed by tank removal & cleaning and fuel system cleaning and service. The bill would be paid by the station that supplied the "water". If you have a receipt for the supposed "fuel", and can show gallons of water were introduced into your truck, the station is liable for any damage to your truck. Good Luck, Russ
Thanks guys
If water isn't the problem, then could it be a bad icp sensor? The voltage is correct (.25volts), but the pressure with nothing cranking at 65psi instead of 0psi is obviously wrong. I'm waiting for the fittings to arrive to do an air leak check, but in the meantime I thought i'd check the icp and ipr sensors. Could the ipr be commanded to be at full close, but not responding properly? I pulled the ipr and checked the screen and outward appearances looked good. Thanks again for everyone's input.
Mike
Hey guys.
Thanks for the replies and advice. I replaced the ipr with a new one and there was no change. When I leak checked it the system air seemed to be coming from deep within the engine. The top end (injectors, standpipes and lines) seemed to not be leaking any air. I removed the HPOP cover and checked it again. Air is coming out of the gear side of the pump. I think that I saw somewhere that this is normal, but it is the only place where air is escaping during the leak check. Any thoughts? I had a shop replace the hpop 2 years ago due to a no start hot condition and it worked well until now. Is it normal for a new pump to fail after only 2 years and 2000 miles? ( It's a spare truck and I rarely drive it). Since I have it torn down to this point I'll probably replace the pump anyway, but I'd like to get your input on a RELIABLE pump to replace it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Mike
Guys that have the engine that used the round pump may have to correct me on this one.
What Sean said. If it cranks and runs with the ICP unplugged, it's likely an ICP sensor problem. It should run in default mode with it unplugged. It'll give you a soft error code (no CEL).
IF you pull your oil filter and hear air through the oil filter housing, it's likely the HPOP.
Thank you guys for getting back to me. I didn't try unplugging the icp sensor, but I installed a new one 2 years ago before the shop replaced the hpop. It looks ok from outward appearances, no oil in the plug area, but I'll replace it anyway... During the air leak test, air was coming out of the oil filter housing as well as from the gear drive of the pump. No air was heard escaping from anywhere else, but I still have to replace the left hand standpipe as I bent the original while removing it. The o rings looked to be in good shape, but I'll still replace it with an upgraded one. Since I'm already into it, I'll replace the hpop again, I'd like to find a reliable one that has been tested BEFORE I put it into the truck, Thank you Sean for recommending thoroughbred diesel, but I was hoping to spend a little less than $1000. for a pump. I don't have to have a $450 pump, but hopefully something in between that I don't have to do this again in another two years. Any other pumps come to mind??? As I said, this is a spare truck that I dont use very often. Still would like to get it running though. Thanks again Sean and BryanStein
You will have to look as I don't recall the title of the thread/project.
Some guy took a stock round Ford pump and found that the issue was the swash plate had turned in the bore.
He figured out the correct orientation and then drilled some slots into the bore that the swash plate slides into.
The reason it quits is there is noting holding the plate in the correct orientation and it can turn. When it turns
it most times will blow out the bb and then quit working. The pinning holds it in place and that solves that part
of the issue with the pump failing.
If anyone can recall the name or has the link to that mod please post it.
Hi guys. Once again thanks to all who responded to my previous texts. I found out what was causing my low hpop pressure. The shop that replaced my hpop two years ago put the wrong o ring in when they bolted the new pump on 2 years ago. It lasted for 1800 miles then let go. While I was in there, I decided to replace the pump anyway with a motorcraft pump and replace the J tube with a motorcraft one also from a Ford dealer. So now everything that is a bear to get to is new. I put it all back together. It took some cranking to build up pressure, but I finally got the engine to start. The problem is, when I did get it to start, it had no power and would not idle. I ran the engine until the temps came up to purge all of the air out of the system and finally got it to idle, but still no power. It feels as if I'm only running on 4 cylinders, and even then not very well. All of the parameters on my scanner look good. ICP/HPOP at 1700 psi, IPR at around 60, FICM at 48 volts. When I shut it down, It wouldn't start again. I'm going to check all of my wiring connections to make sure I didn't miss any and that they are all snug, but after that I'm not sure where to go. It seems strange to me that multiple failures would happen at the same time. I know that I had low oil pressure initially, but now that problem is fixed. Should I start looking at the fuel system? I'm starting to think that perhaps I did get water in my fuel after all. Can anyone direct me to a good reference as to how to check fuel pressure and/or the steps involved in purging the fuel system? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.