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Exactly, not sure why they suggest it then. The only thing I could think is maybe if there is sway, the timing between the truck counter measures, and the natural sway reduction could be offset is such a way that it would amplify sway?
Probably something like that, the two systems would be competing and it would be hard for them to design their wdh to interact with different anti sway systems on different trucks rather than just designing to counter predictable sway from a trailer.
Exactly! Most likely they're using the cheapo hitches that the RV DEALERSHIPS SELL THEM! I've used an Equalizer brand hitch since 2007, it absolutely makes the towing experience much more enjoyable and safe. The types that use a friction deal that attach to two small ***** are garbage.
Actually they're not garbage, they're a tried and true method that keeps your weight distribution separate from your sway control. I have been using the 'cheapo' style hitch for a couple decades now and have had zero issues running 60-65 mph with it as long as it's set up properly. Considering towing faster than that is unsafe, I'm good with where I'm at.
The combo units rely on you having weight on the bars to control sway, because it's still friction. If you don't have enough pressure on the bars you don't have enough friction to adequately control sway.
Us boat guys occasionally chime in on these matters. WDH and saltwater just don't mix, so we never use them. For comparison I will throw up a few personal opinions, they are just that, opinions.
I escaped CA in 2013 and towed my boat all the way across FL with a 2008 F150 FX4. I had no idea what the boat weighed until I got to FL but the truck had no issues other than what I thought was hideous gas mileage at anything over 70. I later weighed the boat full fuel and it rolled in at 9,400 pounds with the trailer. The tongue was around 900 pounds. The truck bed probably had 500 pounds of gear in it plus myself and a 100 pound dog. The rig pulled great; one late night while towing through the rolling hills of TX we were likely bucking a 30mph gusting headwind that would occasionally shift to a cross over the hills. Other than mileage dropping to 5 or so, the little F150 pulled your weights completely fine. A 13 year newer superduty would be even better.
During Covid I towed this setup all over the states for something to do. Almost 25,000 pounds, no WDH and probably 1500 pounds of tongue weight. Always rock solid, never once did it sway unless it was an input error I made on the wheel (reaching over to grab another bag of sunflower seeds).
IMO, you are towing something a 2.7L ecoboost F-150 could handle all day.
Apples to oranges, my friend. You likely don't have the tongue weight you think you do with a boat, even with the bigger boat. More likely you're under 1k on the tongue. Boats have the majority of their weight in the rear, and are typically loaded so the trailer axles take most of the weight. The exceptions are the boats that need tractor-trailers to move them. Boats are also shorter and much more rounded than RVs and therefore aren't as prone to becoming a sail behind the truck.
Again this is almost apples to oranges but on the truck side. A dually will ALWAYS be more stable pulling than a SRW truck. You've got two extra tires on the ground. I was able to do this a few times when I borrowed my dad's F450 to move a couple trailers around, but even though the truck was stable the trailer was NOT. It would 'float' sideways in stiff cross winds, which is dangerous not because the truck would lose traction (although if severe enough it could) but because that trailer could float over and hit someone trying to pass or in an oncoming lane.
Anyone have actual calculations of that effect? We can calculate the static effect of weight easily, how much dynamic force is applied when porpoising? My towing experience with a 34 ft trailer is only with long bed crew cab models. I never felt much difference in the porpoising effect with or without a wdh.
As stated it's difficult to do the math in the dynamic loading because of the weight variables.
However, CCLB trucks have an advantage of an extra roughly foot of truck in front of the rear axle to combat that weight transfer. That does quite a bit to help combat porpoising, but the WDH, properly set up, still helps to fight what little you do feel.
The profile of the trailer has most to do with it. WDH are needed for RV's because for their weight, they are very big, long, and tall.
A 15,000lb dump trailer is going to tow much better than 7500lb RV. I wouldn't use a WDH for a dumper, but RV's really benefit from it.
I have a 6x10 enclosed cargo trailer that was built extra tall, 1600lb empty that I towed with a Ford escape. I also had a 21 foot boat that weighed over 3000lbs.
With the Cargo trailer, I also ways knew it was back there. With the boat, although heavier, towed like a dream, and better MPG. Profile makes a big difference.
The best WDH is the one that works for your situation. I know the limitations of my WDH and it works well for my situation. I can get off-road and into some gnarly stuff.
Just waiting for someone to chime in and say the Arrow is the best wdh.
Well, it is. Have towed with other types and our Hensley Arrow performs better in the stability function than the others have, however its weight rating maxes out at 1400lbs of tongue weight where some of the other friction based units can go a good bit higher in weight. Our 12K TT (41' hitch to bumper) travels at 1820lbs tongue weight, I have my spring bar screw jacks marked to where they are at the designed tension, I can go higher but have had a lower hitch head failure in the past related to pulling the spring bars up too far. Even without the perfect amount of WD being applied the ride and control are great due to the pivot point projection design of the hitch, and hitching up is pretty simple too.
Considering the ratio of the distance from rear axle to ball hitch and rear axle to front axle, if you add 1000 lb to the ball hitch, that unloads no more than 300-350 lb off the front axle, correct? That’s less than the difference in weight on the front axle between a diesel and a gas engine. Why would a diesel truck need weight distributed to the front axle in that situation when it still has more weight up front due to the engine than a gas truck?
The unloading of the front axle is the measuring tool you use to determine if you have the proper weight distribution. If you don't transfer some number of lbs weight to the front you are leaving even more weight back at the hitch, because:
The weight distribution hitch transfers some tongue weight to the front of the tow vehicle and some weight to the trailer tires. Yes..., the trailer axle weight will increase too.
The lurking weight problem isn't up front, its out back.
If you don't use the weight distribution hitch, the problem is that you still have weight hanging over the back of the truck that is waiting for some side to side push to get the oscillation started and then you start the fishtailing that gets worse with every pass, until 3 or 4 seconds later when the oscillation ends with a call to a your insurance company. Remember this is a dynamic situation, that takes a few seconds to build, its a 1000 lb weight oscillating back and forth on a lever arm that's hanging off the back of the truck.
I can't calculate the effect of a 1/2 ton oscillating back and forth off behind the tailgate (like a big heavy yo-yo), but once it starts the tow vehicles center of gravity must be able to stop it. Yes a truck with a heavier engine will have less change on its center of gravity, but I cant say it would be safe.
I believe the original poster indicated a gas truck: "21 f250 fx4 crew with 7.3"
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Have towed with other types and our Hensley Arrow performs better in the stability function than the others have, however its weight rating maxes out at 1400lbs of tongue weight where some of the other friction based units can go a good bit higher in weight. Our 12K TT (41' hitch to bumper) travels at 1820lbs tongue weight, I have my spring bar screw jacks marked to where they are at the designed tension, I can go higher but have had a lower hitch head failure in the past related to pulling the spring bars up too far. Even without the perfect amount of WD being applied the ride and control are great due to the pivot point projection design of the hitch, and hitching up is pretty simple too.
