Since it appears that (at least) one of my calipers is sticking/stuck...I bought all four to replace.
I've watched a couple of generic YouTube videos but there are none (that I can find) that pertain SPECIFICALLY to a 2012 F250 SD with the 6.2 gas engine.

So...can anybody who has done this, offer up some tips to help me through this?
I'm assuming it won't be anything too technical, but you never know if there's a shortcut, trick or work-around that makes things easier.
For instance, I'm hoping that I can leave the brackets in place...swing the caliper out of the way....leave the pads in place...and slap in the new calipers, that way I won't have to fiddle with the 2 dozen clips that are packed with each caliper.
I also intend on flushing the old fluid out completely, so I need to know where the ABS module is located so that I know which wheel to start at.

Basically anything you can think of that will help me out...
Thanks in advance.

 

you're correct you can just flip the calipers up and leave the pads in place. Though I’m surprised you have a bad caliper without premature wear or damage to a rotor and pad. But if no issues, you can just flip.

I’m also surprised you’d go all the way around for one failure.




I haven’t needed to do on my 2019, but you should look into vacuum bleeding.

 

I have a special vacuum pump, ready for bleeding.
As for replacing all of them...I figured if ONE is an issue, then it won't be long until they all are. Plus, this gives me a new baseline to work from...that's important to me when it comes to maintenance.
In fact, I'm probably going to replace all the pads too...makes no sense installing NEW calipers and USED pads. I'm not sure if one (or more) of the pads or rotors have any issues...guess I'll find out soon enough.

The ones I have don't have the same types of clips as the ones you show in your pics..

 

It's very easy to replace the calipers, and the ABS is located on the driver's side. You'll need to start bleeding from back right, and end up on front left last. You'll also need a computer to bleed the ABS system.

 

Say what????
I've seen no mention of needing a computer to bleed the ABS, on any video or written article that I've looked at.....this just went sideways....

 

yep, you'll need some type of scan tool that can bleed the ABS system. If not you'll probably have spongy brakes. Sorry for the bad news. Maybe a friend or auto zone can loan one out?

 

https://ohptools.com/blogs/news/how-...s-with-forscan

I have not watched this, but here's a good starting point. Regular laptop with USB OBD2 module.

 

Forscan does not currently have a service function to perform an ABS bleed on a super duty.....I asked them a while back when I replaced the calipers and rotors on my 2013. It can do an ABS bleed on a bunch of other models however.

That said, you do not need to perform an ABS bleed unless you get air in the system upstream of the module, as in replace the master cyl or let the reservoir run dry when you're bleeding at the wheels. You can either get a tool with ABS service functions for a super duty, or flush the brake system and once new fluid is in the reservoir, go drive on a gravel or loose dirt road then do several hard stops to cycle the ABS dump valves and get the old fluid purged out of the module, then re-bleed each wheel again. I bought a pressure bleeder and cannot recommend one enough after using it on a couple of different vehicles. Siphon out the reservoir, fill it with new fluid, put a quart in the pressure bleeder, pump it up to about 15 psi and go open each bleeder until all the air and dirty fluid runs clear.

Replacing the calipers and rotors is very straightforward. The only real advice I can give is to make sure you install the rear calipers on the correct sides; the bleed screw will be at the top when it is on the correct side. Either caliper can and will fit on either side but you will never be able to get the air out of it and you will have a spongy pedal if you install it with the bleed screw facing down.






I cannot recommend a pressure bleeder enough to bleed or flush brake fluid.

 

Good to know.

I have an old medical-vacuum pump that I plan to use for this. Same idea, only backwards!

I guess the same can be said for the front?

 

I don't suppose anybody has a picture/exploded view of how that multitude of spring-clips goes in there...........?

Wow....am I ever in over my head!

 

So...I completed ONE caliper this evening, before dinner time. Took just a little over 2 hours and here is what I've learned so far:
The calipers are location-specific....there is a LR RR RF and LF. Brake pads are Front and Rear, but there is no (apparent) inboard and outboard pads...none of them have any discernible difference from the other. As far as the old ones, they look pretty much like the new ones.
I started on the Right Rear side and I hope that this one is not typical of the others. This one was heavily rusted and needed to be pried off the bracket. The backing plate on the inboard pad was rusted to the caliper...I think I found the source of the original problem!
As for the clips...this had me stumped for a while. I could NOT figure out how they worked....even with the old ones right before my eyes. No matter how hard I looked, it wouldn't add up. Then, the coin fell into the slot and my brain kicked into gear; all I had to do was install the NEW clips on the NEW pads, in the same manner as the old ones. At first it still didn't make sense, but then the light came on. The clips fit over the ends of the pads and the springy, curved part extends into the sides of the calipers, pointing away from the rotor. Upon closer examination, each of the clips has an angle to it that matches the angle of the casting on the caliper...if you use the proper clip, the pad will orient itself parallel to the rotor. If you select the wrong clip, the pad will be askew. Once I figured that part out, the process became a whole lot easier.
My tips for rookies:
- Loosen the banjo bolt BEFORE removing the caliper. It might drip a bit, but you won't have to fight with it later.
- Before removing the banjo bolt, make sure the master cylinder reservoir cap is on and closed tight....this will help in preventing too much fluid loss.
- Make sure you remove the old copper washers from the banjo fittings...they won't fall off on their own, you'll probably have to pry them off.
- Grease the caliper brackets BEFORE you install them, or apply the grease to the clips, it will help to hold them in place during install.
- Use brake-specific grease and don't get any on the rotors or pads. If you do, clean it off with brake cleaner. Apply a thin coating to the BACK SIDE of the inboard pad...the metal side that the pistons press on.
- While the calipers are OFF, clean your rotors.
- In order to swing the old REAR caliper(s) out of the way, you have to remove a retaining bolt on the brake line...scope it out so that you don't have to do it while holding the caliper.
- Use BLUE loc-tite on the bracket bolts and caliper bolts...you don't want those fasteners walking out while you're driving.
- Gravity bleed the calipers once installed; remove master cylinder reservoir cap and crack bleed nipple on caliper. Once the fluid arrives, close the bleeder then proceed to bleed brakes in accordance to the method you you are most familiar with.
- Don't forget to pressurize the system before you drive away....that is to say, make sure you've pumped the pedal while still in the driveway and verify that your brakes are working.

 

Turns out the RF caliper was also "dysfunctional"...that's TWO of four that weren't in optimal operating condition!
The front calipers were a bit more of a challenge with regards to wheel placement to access the works, otherwise it was much of the same.
I started putting the calipers together (with pads) on the bench before installing the whole assembly. An issue with the threaded mounting hole on the right side slowed me down by about ½ hour.
The new front pads come with the same clips as the rear ones AS WELL AS another little clippy thing that I couldn't figure out for the life of me. The old ones didn't have these extra items, so I didn't bother putting them in. If this proves to be a problem, I can always add them at a later date...I kept ALL the clips that were left over!
I ran out of fluid (a whole quart!) so I wasn't able to cycle the ABS at this time. Most of the Parts stores will be closed until Tuesday now, so it will have to wait....there are no plans to use the truck this weekend anyway.
Finished in about 5 hours for three wheels, but I like to take all the rusty lug nuts and mounting bolts and run them through the wire-wheel to clean them up a bit. Then, factor in the ½ hour I killed finding a tap and re-threading a mounting hole...I'd say the whole process could take 4 - 5 hours for the average weekend warrior.
If anybody can show me how to install those extra spring clips..that would be great!

Why don't the new pads have the "squealers" (wear-indicators) on them?

 

Finished this project in earnest on Tuesday of this week. Drove down to the river and activated the ABS a few times...
I tried using my medical vacuum pump to bleed, but all it did was suck air past the threads on the bleed nipples, so I gave up that method. Instead, I used the Chris Fixx method for bleeding and it worked well. I imagine the pressurized-method mentioned earlier would work even better.
At the end of the day, I'd gone through another quart of brake fluid, but now it is NEW, FRESH fluid in the Master Cylinder, down the brake lines and all the way into the calipers! Brakes are working well...the GRUNT that used to be there when reversing, is gone...thank goodness. All in all, they are much quieter than before...I'm so glad I opted to replace the pads along with the calipers...don't know why I thought I could "cheap out" on this vital safety system...sometimes, it's not worth it, saving a couple of hundred bucks.
Speaking of which, the grand total for this was in the neighbourhood of (Cdn dollarettes) $400 for calipers, $145 for pads and maybe $25 for fluid. Prices are much lower south of the 49th so I imagine that our American brothers could get this done for less.

That is the story of my caliper/pad replacement...hope someone is able to glean something useful from it.