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I need to get back under the valve covers to do some more work. I'm going to be installing head studs, replacing pushrods, and doing something that I apparently should have done when I installed the Beehive valve springs, which is to set the correct installed height to 1.88 inches. Doing this work will require me to remove and reinstall the injectors that I just installed a few months ago, like 3 months ago. Is it really necessary to replace the o rings and copper washers on these, still fairly new, injectors even if they all appear to be in good condition when I inspect them?
I need to do an oil change too. So if I drain the HPO rails when I drain the engine oil, will that prevent oil from entering the cylinders when I pull the injectors?
Totally agree about the oil rail plugs, not worth the risk of stripping an allen head or sealing issues. Just pop the rear most injector on either side to cut down on the vac job then crank it w/ glow plugs removed before start up.
I've gotten away w/ reusing o-rings but Finnish makes a very good point about the copper washer.
Thanks for the heads up. I'd be willing to bet those fake glow plugs were purchased either from ebay or Amazon. I had the same issue with fake IPR valves and I bought them off ebay. I won't buy any more brand name items off either place. But I did install new Motorcraft glow plugs when I installed t he new injectors a few months ago.
Well it's obviously been a little while since I last posted. I had to put the truck in my shop and leave it alone for quite some time. I've been very busy building my house and I had to make that my priority. I did all of the electrical work in the house. Well over a mile of wire in that house. Anyway back to the truck. I decided not to do the head studs just yet but I did finally get to do the rest of the work I needed to do. I installed 7/16" Manton pushrods and set the correct installed height on the Beehive valve springs. Not knowing exactly what shims would be required I bought a set of shims that contained 16 - .060" shims, 16 - .030" shims, and 16 - .015" shims from Comp Cams, part number 4754-16. Amazingly, I ran out of shims after the first 4 cylinders and ended up purchasing another set to finish the job. Luckily I found a set of shims available on Amazon and got them delivered next day. If anyone remembers the performance issues I described after my turbo/injector/valve spring modification last year, setting the correct installed valve spring height fixed all of that. I believe also the valve spring installed height was responsible for my broken pushrod issue. This truck is a beast now. I'm very happy with all of the mods and money spent. I can't wait to get this thing on the dyno so I can see what the actual numbers are. One last thing of note, I have the PHP tunes for this injector/turbo combination and I also have some 1023 tunes for this combo. It's a beast with both sets of tunes but the PHP tunes are noisy. With the 1023 tunes there is relatively no injector noise. It's been so long since I bought the tunes that to have any adjustments made to the 1023 tunes will be costly but I have to say the 1023 daily driver tune does not like 35-40 mile per hour cruising. It seems to just hunt for the right gear for the transmission to be in.
Sounds like the engine is happy with the TLC you provided it. If you are on the hunt for new tunes, check out Andrew Arthur. He is making a lot of people happy as of late.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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